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        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
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          • Day 88: Lotta Brews
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          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
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          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
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        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6 (and 90): Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
        • Day 92: Beulah's Arete
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: In Through the Out Door (Ridinghood Wall)
        • Day 91: Guys and Ghouls
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
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      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
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        • Angel Food Wall >
          • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
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          • Day 91: Ride the Wind
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        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
        • Day 94: Double Pin-etration N'Plus Ultra
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Pine Creek Canyon

CLIMBS: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Unknown Left Start to Datura (Stick Gully) 
Walk off or rappel?
Obscure climbs leave us guessing.
FUN-KY and FUCK'r
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DATE OF CLIMBS: February 1, 2020
​WALLS HIT TODAY: 2 (Abutment & Stick Gully)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 2 (1 in each area)
NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 2 
VERTICAL 5.7 FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 210' (60' + 150')
​NUMBER OF FALLS TODAY: 0
TAKES TODAY:  1 (Stef got a foot cramp on lead on "
Unknown Left Start to Datura" in Stick Gully)

​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 88
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 112

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 8,865'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 149 (out of 237 - although we may redo Pre-Skool)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~41,432
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool
  • Rick - On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3​​​​​​​​​
AT PARKING LOT:  7:45 a.m.
AT BASE OF 1st CLIMB:  8:45 a.m.
CLIMBING:  9-9:45 a.m. (Robin Trowel)
ATTEMPTED TO FIND WALK-OFF: 45  minutes, then set up a rappel

BACK AT BASE OF CLIMB: 11:00 a.m. 
HIKE TO BASE OF NEXT CLIMB: 11:15-1:00 (stopped for lunch too)
BEGAN CLIMB #2 (~150 FT): 1:15 p.m.

TOPPED OUT: ~3 p.m. (Lost time with bad rope drag and bringing Rick up to finish the climb without terrible rope drag)
WASTED A BUNCH OF TIME TRYING TO GET OFF THE CLIMB...
BACK AT BASE OF CLIMB: 4:30 p.m.
BACK AT CAR: 6:00 p.m.

Robin Trowel

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN-KY!​
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Rap tree is located to climber's right, past the large dead tree you see when you first get off the climb.
  • A fun climb with a funky down-chimney/down climb ending.
  • The crack goes from wide to narrower. Rick placed a small nut to protect the start, then a #6, #5, #4, and #3. Then a few midsized pieces for the anchor (which you have to build after the downclimb).
  • There are a couple of spicy spots, but it all ends up being there, even though it seems like it might not. 
  • I'm shorter than Rick and couldn't start on the right side face like he did, so I went into the offwidth first then out onto the right face/formation. 
  • As noted in the video, we spent about 45 minutes trying to locate a walk off (both left and right of the climb). We went down several gullies which were dead ends with big drop-offs. We ended up rapping off a tree (see photo). When we were walking to Stick Gully, we did ultimately see a way to have probably walked off, but it's quite a bit farther from the climb and would likely result in more environmental damage (from erosion of soft soils) than rappeling near the start of the climb. 
Whether or not this climb name was meant to be a play on the name of legendary guitarist Robin Trower, let's pretend it is. If you are of a generation who is not familiar with his licks and 70s mellow-blues-rock style, take a moment, jus chill, and jam. 

Unknown Left Start to Datura (aka Elephant Penis)

Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK!
  • We were going to rate this climb as WT FEISTY, but the last 20 feet of it turned it into a WTF'r...
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Exhausted, frustrated, thirsty, hungry, and frazzled... the end-of-day video - I look like I aged 10 years between this video and the first one of the day at Abutment! Haha!
  • This climb has an interesting combination of moves. It begins with slab (where I had to dig out sand in a crack to place pro), goes to featured face, has a slabby funky grunt-worthy offwidth section where you are part in the crack and part on the elevated left wall (part of my grunting was from bad rope drag where I didn't extend the slings long enough in a couple of spots).
  • I used a couple of medium sized cams lower down, then the crack got big. I used the #5 (I only brought one) and both #4s (bumping my second #4 as high as I could until I had to leave it behind. I could have even used a 3rd #4 and ended up finagling some pro in a different crack, which, in part affected my rope drag because of poor alignment with the rest of the climb.)
  • The climb is fun and a bit feisty until the last 20-30 feet, where protection, holds, "cleanliness" and fun disappear. After digging out sand in a shallow discontinuous crack, there were only two spots for pro - bad and worse -shallowly placed microcams (0 and 00 Metolious) in 30 feet. The rock becomes extremely slopey white sandstone with a sandy layer on top and lots of sandy, rocky (not necessarily small rocks either) debris that falls down on top of you as you desperately attempt to get past a forest of shrubs before a "sandslide" takes you down with it. 
  • Once you make it past the terrible ending, you have to awkardly downclimb about 10-15 feet (unprotected) scooting your feet blindly down a diaganol crack. It is exposed, but a tree branch might catch you. It helps to lean forward, splaying your body across the slab, to reduce any risk of falling backwards. 
  • Next you go into a shitty, loose, steep gully (this is actually the base of the climb Elephant Penis/Datura). The gully has medium to large boulders with empty space beneath them, making you wonder how well these rocks are lodged in place. There is also loose scree. We actually didn't initially realize that Datura and Elephant Penis are (probably) the same climb. Since the name of this climb refers to Datura, we were not able to find any information on "Datura," and went blindly into descent information. We scrambled down the gully to the last, partially live tree/bush and decided to build a rap anchor. We spent quite a bit of time making an anchor that utilized the largest, living parts of the tree.
  • Rick began rappelling and then discovered a bolted anchor on the wall a bit further down! This was a cleaner, more direct line down, so he re-set the rappel. I scrambled down further to reach the rappel. 
By the time we got down the sun was setting and we were exhausted. If you look at my face in the first video above (for Robin Trowel) and my face in this final video of the day, I look like I aged 10 years!

Honestly, it was a bit of a brutal day: Trying to find the walk-off for Robin Trowel; Walking all the way to the Abutment, then from Abutment to this climb in Stick Gully; Getting sideswiped by the WTFuck ending of "Unknown Left Start to Datura;" Being thirsty and hungry; And, dealing with a sketchy gully and wasting time on setting up the rappel then discovering the anchors. I was frazzled and done (which you can sense in this last video...) Anyway, there it is folks, another What the Fucker for you!


WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area & Alphabetically

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  • Home
  • Blog
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • WTF 5.7 Climbs
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
          • Day 94: Romanian Rib Right
          • Day 95: Romanian Rib Left
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Day 88: Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6 (and 90): Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
        • Day 92: Beulah's Arete
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: In Through the Out Door (Ridinghood Wall)
        • Day 91: Guys and Ghouls
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs >
        • Angel Food Wall >
          • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
        • Seraphim Wall >
          • Day 91: Ride the Wind
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
        • Day 94: Double Pin-etration N'Plus Ultra
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear