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          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
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        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
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        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
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        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
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        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
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        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
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        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
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Southern Outcrops

Illusion Crag - Part 1
5.7 CLIMBS:
French Bulges
Mirage
Corner's Inquest
Morph Out
Con Jurors
​Sendable
Eight 7s, six done
Herbst, Swain, Urioste
Two "What the Fuckers!"
Picture

French Bulges

Climb: French Bulges (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitch ~80')(Pro to 3")
FA: Nanouk Borche and Joe Herbst, 1973
Wall: Illusion - Left Side
Beginner Lead? Probably ok (surprisingly, since this is a Herbst climb. But it is well protected and nicely featured)

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
When you look at this climb from below and you see the name, you anticipate multiple bulges, however because you are climbing in a corner, mostly stemming, the bulges are not really noticeable. We were surprised that, for a Joe Herbst climb, it was pretty straight forward and a solid 5.7. The protection is good and there are nice sized features all the way up.

You can rappel off this climb and avoid the loose, crappy, burned walk-off. ​
Picture
Tony Ferrar leading French Bulges, Illusion Crag, Red Rock Canyon, NV

Mirage

Climb: Mirage (Trad) (5.7)(~140', two pitches recommended)(Pro to 5")
​FA: Betsy Herbst, Joe Herbst, & Joanne Urioste, 1976
Wall: Illusion
Beginner Lead? No!

Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK! (But Fun)
This is a super interesting, incredibly diverse, and physically demanding climb. It is definitely a WTFr, but it is also fun. Not for the new lead - at all. 

This climb moves from the corner into a splitter hand jam (smooth, slick rock) before moving into the tricky off width shown in the photo here. Continue up the off width, then out onto the face (still kind of slick) with some funky moves. 

Navigate two small roofs. Straight up the roofs is the most challenging, or you can go out right or up the off width to the left for a little easier terrain. Protection can be tricky and intermittent in the upper sections. 

If others want to top rope this climb, you will need to build an anchor above the roofs - but the anchor is difficult to build and needs large gear and multiple really long slings. Otherwise you will need to have the second follow. 

Although you could try to stretch this into one long 140-foot pitch, we'd recommend breaking it into two pitches. The rope drag not only would be problematic, you may want to be able to have your second in the line of sight as they go through the challenging first 80-feet (depending on their experience level with the diverse climbing styles needed for this climb.)
Picture
The second pitch is low 5th class terrain and the best place to stop and belay is at a boulder. There are no other options for protection except to sling the boulder.

DESCENT: Scramble to a large, burnt and dying pine tree. It will only be a matter of time before this tree is unsafe to rappel from (see descent option 2 below). Rappel approximately 60-feet into the gully then scramble down the gully. Note that the gully is very loose and dirty from the fire. Make sure no one is below you as you descend. Several good sized rocks dislodged as we descended and they gained significant momentum and would have struck people hanging out near the climbs below. 

DESCENT OPTION 2: If we were to return here, we would bring webbing to leave slung around the boulder (the one you belayed from at the top of pitch 2) and rappel from here. This would not only avoid the dying tree, it would also avoid much of the the loose and dangerous gully. (So you might consider bringing a large amount of webbing.) 


Corner's Inquest

Climb: Corner's Inquest (Trad) (5.7)(~140', two pitches)(micros and RPs, gear to 2")
​FA: John Wilder & Larry DeAngelo, 2006)
Wall: Illusion
Beginner Lead? No. Thin, runout, with tricky pro

Conclusion WTF? What the FUNOUT!
This is a fun, but thin face climb up the arete. There is very little protection so it is run out in sections. Bring small gear, including micros and RPs (brassies). 

​This climb is best done in two pitches. The second pitch and descent is the same as Mirage (see DESCENT section above.)
Picture

Morph Out

Climb: Morph Out (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitch ~75')(Pro to 4" - a 5" might even be helpful down low)
​FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain, 1994
Wall: Illusion
Beginner Lead? No!

Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK!
The first 20-30 feet of this climb is no joke. It is difficult to protect (decking likely), dirty with loose rock, with awkward, difficult, and strenuous moves. Shorter people are at a clear disadvantage. 

Continue up the corner and go out onto the left face. There is actually very little pro here and a fall would be a deck. Before the bulgy/roofy crack, go right and out onto the right side face. The climb gets super easy and is heavily featured (5.3ish) and protectable all the way to the anchor. The anchor is tat, from which you can rappel.

If you want to try this climb on top rope, climb Chameleon Pinnacle (5.4 on the face to the right), which leads to the same set of anchors. Bring long slings to set up the TR.
Picture

Con Jurors

Climb: Conjurors (Trad) (5.7 in Handren, 5.7+ in MP)(1 pitch ~110', 70m recommended)(Pro to 4")
FA: Raleigh Collins & Brandt Allen, 1994
Wall: Illusion
Beginner Lead? Probably not.
The start is easy, but unprotectable, so it could be uncomfortable for a new leader. There is an intermediate anchor, which would be a good place to end for a beginner lead. The last section where the crack angles right, after the intermediate anchor, get's thin and tricky in several spots. 
Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
The start of this climb is far to the right of the crack. Go up a low angled ramp to the base of the crack. There is no protection, but the ledge is decent sized. We also experimented with going straight up, which is about a 5.9/5.10a with little pro, and up a small crack to the left, which is protectable and in the 5.7/5.8 range.
Picture
The main crack up to an intermediate anchor (which is webbing slung through a hole) has huge features and is easily protectable. The climb gets challenging after this intermediate anchor, when the crack starts angling off to the right. This area is where the #4 comes in handy. The features thin out considerably the higher you get. There are bolted anchors at the top. A 70m rope is needed to rappel down. 

Sendable

Climb: Sendable (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitch ~95')
​FA: Unknown
Wall: Illusion
Beginner Lead? No.

Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
This climb is posted as 40 feet in Mountain Project and this is incorrect! The main part of the climbing may be 40-feet, but where you would set up an anchor for top roping and belay up the second to be able to descend, is about 95 feet. 

After you reach the top of the crack in this photo, the rock becomes crappy, slabby, and low angled. The only place to set up a top rope and belay is at a large boulder, which requires long slings and creative placements. If you top rope, the rope will drag significantly along the rock (we don't recommend TRing - but if you do bring a 70m)(Mountain Project talks about top roping several lines across the face, but having appropriate directionals from the anchor would be a challenge - there are dead tress and loose rocks all across the crappy slab.)

The start of this climb is unprotectable steep slab. It is more challenging than it looks and we'd estimate to be about a 5.9. A fall would be into pokey oaks. The first piece of pro is around 20 feet up. Then the climb gets easy for a section, with creative pro, and becomes somewhat feisty again near the top where the crack goes straight up in the photo. After that, it is low angled junk to the boulder.
Picture
Picture

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: November 21 & December 3, 2021
​WALLS HIT: 1
NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS: 6
NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES: 7
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED: 580'
DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0

​TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 178
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 233

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 20,550
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 60 (out of 238)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 31,057'

​​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 
​​​​​​​​​​​8
FALLS SO FAR: 
  • STEF: 2 (By Stef on WTF'r Tarkus Crack)
  • ​RICK: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • WT Fua: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
    • WTForget About It: Glue Gun
    • WTFun: Cialis Cleft (took to figure out the moves on start)
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r: Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (took the first time, not the second she climbed it)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack​
  • Rick - Takes On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu
    • WTF'r: Tuna and Chips (he took and rested at the start of pitch 2 to recover from pitch 1 before continuing)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack​
    • WTF'r: Peaches
    • WTF'r: Pillar Talk
  • Guests - Takes on Lead
    • Grant Corley: WTF'r Sunday School


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)

​
Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)

Day84: Lost Creek (Grey Matter)

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WTF 5.7 Tour
© COPYRIGHT 2017-2022. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
  • Home
  • Buy!
  • Maps
    • Hiking
    • City of Rocks, ID - Climber's Map
    • Joshua Tree, CA - Climber's Map
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV - Climber's Map
    • Smith Rock, OR - Climber's Map
  • Map Details
    • Quality
    • Map Elements
    • Methodology
    • Environment
  • About
  • Blog
    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
  • Contact
    • Feedback
  • Retail Stores
  • Media Coverage
  • Calendar