Friends, we have a WTF'r!
We've also got some firsts on this one!
First Fall on the tour! (Stef fell twice!)
First area completed (Icebox Canyon is now DONE!)
Rick took twice on this climb, which is the 5th climb out of 133 climbs (175 pitches) that he has taken. He is still at ZERO falls.
Yes, it was a WTF'r (find out why below) - but did we like it? Why yes we did...
We've also got some firsts on this one!
First Fall on the tour! (Stef fell twice!)
First area completed (Icebox Canyon is now DONE!)
Rick took twice on this climb, which is the 5th climb out of 133 climbs (175 pitches) that he has taken. He is still at ZERO falls.
Yes, it was a WTF'r (find out why below) - but did we like it? Why yes we did...
Tarkus Crack
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Climb: Tarkus Crack (Trad) (5.7+)(45')
Wall: Tiki Cliff
Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK! (But Fun)
- OK, so Rick and I aren't the best at pure crack climbs. We can jam here and there to get us through spots, but having to jam for nearly the whole climb - especially awkward jamming that isn't straightforward and the crack changes sizes - just isn't our forte. We really liked this climb, but struggled with it! We felt it was way harder than a 5.7 - fucks were said, Rick took twice, and, damn it, I fell twice (first falls of the tour so far!) So we are calling this a WTF'r. With that said, since Rick and I are not crack aficionados, we really don't know how this crack compares to a 5.7 crack in someplace like Indian Creek. But, we thought it was strenuous and consistently harder than a 5.7.
- The crack begins with an off-width section (use a #5 there). The transition from the off-width to the hand crack is surprisingly strenuous.
- Having that left hand corner-wall initially really challenged our wobbly crack technique. It's just in the way... So Rick decided to try lay-backing. That worked for a bit, but the featureless wall is somewhat slick and his feet kept slipping. (On my first attempt I tried lay-backing too, but my feet slipped to the point where I had my first fall.)
- We gave up on the layback and went into the crack. The crack size varies so you are having to use different techniques to secure the hand inside.
- The top of the climb has some loose rock, so be extra careful exiting.
- There is a sling wrapped around a boulder with rings. The tat was quite faded by the sun, so we added some fresh backup.
Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: September 27, 2020
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 1 NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 1 (well, we actually did this climb several times to work out the best beta) NUMBER OF FALLS: 2 (Stef fell twice! These were the first falls on the tour!) NUMBER OF TAKES: A bunch (Rick took twice on lead! Stef took several times) VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 45 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 START & END TIMES:
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 133 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 175 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 15,205' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 105 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 35,542' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 5 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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