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Pine Creek Canyon

CLIMB: Too Many Tantrums
SUMMARY HAIKU

Too Many Tantrums here
Do the roof, traverse, or both?
What the FUCK today!
Picture
Mescalito East
DATE OF CLIMB: DECEMBER 20, 2019

​WALLS HIT TODAY: 1 (Mescalito - E Face)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 1
NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 2 (often done in 3 pitches)
VERTICAL 5.7 FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 290'
​NUMBER OF FALLS TODAY: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES TODAY: 1
  • This is Rick's first take on the 5.7 tour!
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 73
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 90

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 6,985'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 176

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~43,382
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
  • Stef – several (on the two WTF climbs she has lead so far - Miniwanka and Lean & Languid)
  • Rick - 1 - on this climb
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3
VIDEO NOTE: We planned to do two climbs and ended up just doing this one. It's actually a good thing we did, because the next day we did Pauligk Pillar and that was even more of a What the FUCK!-er! (see Day 23). 
START & END TIMES:
  • Arrived Parking Lot: 6:45 a.m.
  • Arrived at Mescalito E Face: 7:45 a.m.
  • Began Climbing: 8:10 a.m.
  • Back at Base of Climb: 12:10 p.m.
  • Back at Car: 1:00 p.m.
Picture


Pitch 1
​


Climb: Too Many Tantrums (Trad) (5.7)(2 pitches - often done in 3 - 290')
Wall: Mescalito E Face


​Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK!
  • We had originally planned to do two climbs today (the second being Pauligk Pillar, which is to the left - see labeled image). But we both were getting over a cold, it was a really cold morning and no sun hit the rock (so the rock was cold too), and the climb took a bit longer and more energy than expected - so we ended up just doing this climb (that turned out to be fortuitous, because Pauligk Pillar was significantly more of a What the FUCK! climb!)
  • All in all this is a good climb on decent rock, despite the What the FUCK! rating. You might be able to "un-fuckify" Pitch 1 via an alternative start on Splitting Hares - which is around the corner on the right side of this block.
  • The top of Pitch 2 gets challenging again, and may not be good for a newer leader. This also contributes to the WTFuck rating. 
  • Someone on Mountain Project commented that there is poor quality rock on this climb. As far as Red Rock sandstone goes, the rock quality is pretty darn good.

Pitch 1 starts off with a bang with this quite challenging mini roof with no holds. It is cussing and grunt-worthy for sure. Meeting our WTF criteria, Rick said "fuck" multiple times on this section - he also "took," which was the first time for him to take on this tour!

The climb gets back to (mostly) 5.7 terrain for the rest of this pitch.

Sometimes this climb is broken into three pitches. Rick decided to do a rope stretcher, taking our 60m twins all the way to a decent belay ledge about 190 ft up (placing pro in pockets). This was to minimize rope drag on the traverse to the anchors on pitch 2.
Picture
Rick's first take and hang on the WTF 5.7 tour! He also said "fuck" several times. This mini-roof is the first element contributing to the WTFuck rating of this climb.
Picture
Start of Too Many Tantrums - Rick and I estimate this to be about a 5.10b start.
Picture
With some grunting and try-hard moves, he made it!


Pitch 2
​

Picture
Stef on pitch 2 of Too Many Tantrums.
Picture
Stef on rappel.
The main issue with pitch 2 was deciding to do the traverse versus the roof then traverse. 

The supposed 5.7 version is to cut below the roof and traverse right to the anchors for rappelling (the anchors are at the top of the climb Next Century.) The entry into the traverse was bulgy and committing, and difficult to see holds to get out onto the face. Trying to get into the traverse felt less comfortable than the roof. It's difficult to see the holds and protection possibilities on this traverse. A Mountain Project description also describes it as difficult to protect for the second. 

Although the roof is technically on another climb (rated 5.8+/5.9-), it just seemed more straightforward. You can (sort of) protect the roof from below (though with the sling a fall would likely be a small deck), then do some scrappy moves to get up and over. The holds are there, you just can't place any pro once you commit - you gotta go.

Mountain Project descriptions from the roof, talk about going up, over and down to the anchors, but we just traversed after gaining the roof. This traverse is protectable and straight forward. 

​Rappel down Next Century with two ropes (we used two 60m ropes).


The End
​

Picture
Stef points to the major What the Fuck part of this climb (which is avoidable by starting on a different climb). All in all this was a good climb, just not for a beginner and not a 5.7 the way we went.


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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  • Home
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  • About
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    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
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          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
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          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
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