Summary Haiku
Another X climb
But you can avoid it - yeah!
We kinda like life...
Another X climb
But you can avoid it - yeah!
We kinda like life...
Tuna & Chips Wall
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CLIMB: Tuna Cookies (R/X - Trad) - 1-2 pitches, 250 feet
This climb is listed as an R but we feel it is rated X if you do it the "original way" - Read on to find out how to make it a reasonable R. Pitch 1 is listed as 150 feet, but we used our 70m and estimate it is very nearly 200 feet. WALL: Tuna and Chips GEAR: Not much... a few draws for bolts (three - depending on if/how you use the bolts on the adjacent 5.6), 2 small nuts and 4 cams all under 1" - preferably offset and/or Totems (see photo of the gear Rick used - this was because there are not many options for pro) FOR A NEW TRAD LEADER? No. The climb is less difficult than Tuna and Chips, but it is still run out and requires experience with placing offset nuts/cams. Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK! (For the X-rating, or much more FUN if you follow our "avoid the X beta") Tuna Cookies is listed as an R climb, but we feel the first 40+ feet of 5.7 unprotected climbing on some crispy rock to get to a (now bad) bolt makes it a rated-X climb (especially with the boulders beneath). But we have a way to make if more fun and not rated X - just a reasonable R!
To make it a reasonable R, use the first three bolts of the adjacent climb Mac and Tuna then veer right to gain the line for Tuna and Cookies. If you do this be sure to use a triple runner on the third bolt of Mac and Tuna to reduce rope drag. If you want to experience the full-line of Tuna and Cookies safely and not take up three bolts on a different route, then after bolt 2 of Mac and Tuna go right and clip the (bad) bolt of Tuna Cookies then go back left and clip the 3rd bolts for Mac and Tuna to lower from. Clean bolts 1 and 2 of Mac and Tuna as you lower. Now you can toprope the original line of Tuna Cookies safely (without relying on that single bad bolt) and then pick up the lead again. Once you gain the small finger-sized crack, head towards the small roof and bypass it on the left. Next up is much easier terrain with occasional horizontals for pro. Head to the bolted anchor with chains and a nice ledge. We estimate it is approximately 200 feet to get to the chains on pitch. You can stop here and rappel down into the Oasis and do some sport and/or trad climbs here. (See The Oasis below on how to get out of the Oasis.) Or, do pitch 2, which is low angle terrain that leads to the walk-off. You will need to set up your own belay to bring up the second - there are no rappel options from here. |
All of the gear Rick used on pitch 1 of Tuna Cookies (~200+ feet) (three alpine draws on bolts, 2 nuts, 4 cams). There are not many options for pro and the Totems and offset are helpful!
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Getting Down
There are multiple ways to get down from Tuna Cookies and The Oasis.
1. Walk-off - The Tuna Cookies walk-off joins the same walk-off from The Oasis (refer to the photo at the top of this page). The walk-off is pretty straight forward by following the path of least resistance down the gully. It lets you out on the right side of Tuna and Chips wall.
2. Rappel - If you want to rappel you will only be able to do this if you do not do the second pitch of Tuna Cookies. You can rappel with two ropes from the bolted anchor, or do two rappels into and then out from The Oasis. The rappel into the Oasis is down and climber's right as you are facing the wall/anchors (just toss the rope over the edge - as long as there are no climbers coming up.) There is a second set of bolts you can use at the bottom for the next rappel down - these bolts are also anchor bolts for the belayer for the 5.8 climb called Serious Libation (DISCLAIMER: We did not rappel from these bolts and cannot provide specifics on rope length reaching the ground from here.). There is also a tree lower down with tat for a rappel.
1. Walk-off - The Tuna Cookies walk-off joins the same walk-off from The Oasis (refer to the photo at the top of this page). The walk-off is pretty straight forward by following the path of least resistance down the gully. It lets you out on the right side of Tuna and Chips wall.
2. Rappel - If you want to rappel you will only be able to do this if you do not do the second pitch of Tuna Cookies. You can rappel with two ropes from the bolted anchor, or do two rappels into and then out from The Oasis. The rappel into the Oasis is down and climber's right as you are facing the wall/anchors (just toss the rope over the edge - as long as there are no climbers coming up.) There is a second set of bolts you can use at the bottom for the next rappel down - these bolts are also anchor bolts for the belayer for the 5.8 climb called Serious Libation (DISCLAIMER: We did not rappel from these bolts and cannot provide specifics on rope length reaching the ground from here.). There is also a tree lower down with tat for a rappel.
Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: November 28, 2021
WALLS HIT: 2 NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 230' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 170 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 224 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 19,780 NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 70 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 31,247' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 8 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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