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        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
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        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
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        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
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        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
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        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
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Climbing Day 1:
​Red Springs Area

CRAGS: Cut Your Teeth, Hide and Seek, and Happy Acres
DATE: June 16, 2019
​WALLS HIT: 3 (Cut Your Teeth Crag; Hide and Seek Crag; & Happy Acres)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS: 5
NUMBER OF PITCHES: 6
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0

VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 550
TOTAL VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 550
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 1
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 1
START & END TIMES:
  • Parking lot 5 a.m. - We woke up at 3:30 a.m. We already had everything packed the night before... so, yes, we should have met our goal of being at the wall at 5 a.m. -- ready to climb -- but somehow we got sucked up into a coffee time-warp vortex and didn't hit the road until 4:30. I really have no idea what happened. 
  • Arrived at the first wall 5:50 a.m. - uphill morning wake-up call anyone?
  • Back at car 12;00 p.m. - 6 pitches in 7 hours with a 45-50 minute approach. No, we aren't going to set any speed records, but, setting records is NOT the goal of this WTF endeavor. The goal is to have FUN and NOT DIE -- day 1 accomplished! The time it took us actually isn't too bad, considering we moved between three different walls, had to set up a weird toprope (Hide and Seek), and took a mellow a food break before doing the multi-pitch. ​
CUT YOUR TEETH WALL - 5.7 climbs
  • November Daze (Sport)
  • Interproximal Stripper (Sport)
  • Laughing Gas (TR)
 
  • CONCLUSION: WTF? What the FUN!
    • Cruiser sport climbs (ranging from 5.6-5.8+) - though we only did the 5.7s (since that is our theme after all...it was difficult to not hop on those other though!)
    • You have to lead a 5.7 climb (Interproximal Stripper) to set up the TR
    • There is a slabby block at the top of Interproximal Stripper and the TR that should not be pulled or stepped on. With care you can find some better rock around it. 
HIDE AND SEEK CRAG - 5.7 Climb
  • Everywhere (TR)
    • This TR is kind of weird to access. You can walk to the top of the formation and there is a single bolt to rappel to the anchors. We backed it up with a cam (since rappeling on a single bolt is sketch). The bolt is not aligned with the anchors, so you have to rappel at an angle. 
  • This climb is listed as a TR, but there is a crack/seam that goes all the way up. It looks protectable. 
  • CONCLUSION: WTF? What the Fiesty!
    • This was a fun climb and looks low-angle and easy from below. Rick and I were surprised at the little grunts this climb produced and we felt it was harder than a 5.7.
    • If we were leading this on gear, this may have entered into "What the Fuck" territory, but since we were on toprope and no "fucks" were said, it's a What the Fiesty.
HAPPY ACRES
  • The climb is also called Happy Acres
  • Trad, 2 pitches
  • 180 feet
  • Gear: Pro to 3" (we used a #4 for an anchor at the end of P1, but it's not really needed)
  • CONCLUSION: WTF? What the FUNK-Y!​

This is a climb we would have never chosen to do were it not for this WTF Tour. The Handren guidebook says very little except for "bushy chimney." Mountain Project has 5 ratings with an average score of 1/2 a star. There is one comment that uses the words "loose and dangerous."

On top of all that, the Happy Acres wall does not have a good history with us. Rick took a big trad fall on another infrequently climbed Happy Acres 5.9, called "Life Chuckle" (a hold broke off on frail rock.) That climb did NOT make us chuckle.

Happy Acres Part Deux

Rick and Stef redo Happy Acres after a few-month hiatus from the WTF 5.7 tour. Find out what happens and what we think!
With that sordid history and these awesomely encouraging descriptions and ratings, Rick and I were looking at each other at the start of this climb, shaking our heads, asking, "What the hell are we doing?"

Since my energy and psyche level was good, I went ahead and grabbed the gear and offered to do the first pitch. Looking up the chimney I could see that it was going to get weird. There were big boulders caught in the constrictions and protruding formations, forcing you into mini bulgy, overhangs. But it looked protectable - mostly.

Yes there were bushes, but not too many. Yes, there was lots of loose rock. Every layer/level/rock constriction had loose stuff to avoid (small and large). But you basically expect that in this type of climb. You do your very best to avoid it or move the rocks. Numerous times I found myself wedged with my back and feet against the wall, moving chunks of stone away from the upcoming ledge so I would have a clear spot to put a hand or foot or to prevent the rocks from getting knocked off by the rope as I climbed past. Loose rock is and can be dangerous, but often the care and thought we give it can either amplify or decrease the danger.  

There was one spot, I would call the crux, where the very boulder I wanted to grab was large and unsafe.  I was a couple feet above my pro, wedged with my back against the wall, one foot behind me and one foot in front. It was awkward - funky. If I fell I would deck on the previous layer. I felt around in front of me, above me, behind me, over and over to try to find the next move - all to avoid this rock. Nothing felt "secure."

There is a point in climbing when all options (relative to the amount of muscle burn) have been explored. You have to say fuck it and accept the discomfort, finally committing to a move. I decided to maneuver to the small ledge in front of me. One by one I cleared off multiple 3"- 4" stones that were on the ledge. I mantled my left hand on a triangular lip behind me, inched my left foot matching the behind-me-mantle. Then I worked my right foot up higher to a small divit where I could dig that foot into the wall, lean my upper body forward, and grab an awkward hold on the face above the ledge. I pulled myself forward while ducking under/around the precarious boulder. I was quite relieved when I made it. 

On an established trad climb, even though there are "standard" belay stations on an established climb, you can always decide independently where to belay. This decision depends on factors like energy, remaining gear, and rope drag. Today it was severe rope drag (from the rope continuously getting caught in pinches between the boulder chockstones) that drove me to build the anchor. I stopped about 10 feet below the tree we figured was the half-way point. It was just as well, as the tree was the only spot on the climb being bombarded by the hot summer sun. 

When Rick arrived I handed him the rest of the gear. He navigated another contortionistic move to get past a bulge. The second pitch then became less "chimney-ey." Rick won the award for creative pro placements on this pitch - stringing a hole, placing a tiny cam in a hidden horizontal, and slotting a tri-cam in hole. 

When I reached the top Rick looked at me with a big fat grin and said, much to my surprise, "I want to do this climb again! And, maybe clean it up a little bit..." 

"Ok, I'm game - but we have a couple hundred more climbs to do before we make it back around to this one..."

So, we started this climb with a bit of dread, and ultimately ended up really liking it. Happy Acres was the surprise of the day - it did make us happy - and this is the type of experience we were hoping for when we decided to do the WTF Tour. 

PART DEUX COMMENTS:

It has more rocks and hazards than we remembered - maybe two years worth of accumulations after a couple of rainy seasons? We still liked it, but it does takes some careful navigation - especially up P2 - which also has friable rock and limited pro. 



​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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  • Home
  • Buy!
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    • City of Rocks, ID - Climber's Map
    • Joshua Tree, CA - Climber's Map
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV - Climber's Map
    • Smith Rock, OR - Climber's Map
  • Map Details
    • Quality
    • Map Elements
    • Methodology
    • Environment
  • About
  • Blog
    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
  • Contact
    • Feedback
  • Retail Stores
  • Media Coverage
  • Calendar