Climb: Double Pin-etration (5.7+, trad, 80' feet)
Wall: N'Plus Ultra
Rope Used: 70m
Gear: Pro to 2" single rack, small nuts
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? No. Tricky pro, committing moves.
Summary: This climb is only found in Mountain Project. It was originally listed as a 5.8, and we think that is a good grade for it. You can probably get it closer to a 5.7 by climbing on the face off to the right, but the climbing goods (both pro and the fun moves like jams and finger locks) are following the cracks. There are two rusty pins (hence the climb name) that Stef backed up with tiny nuts. Much of the climb is protected with small nuts - microcams were too big in spots.
Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY! (Definitely Fun though!)
Wall: N'Plus Ultra
Rope Used: 70m
Gear: Pro to 2" single rack, small nuts
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? No. Tricky pro, committing moves.
Summary: This climb is only found in Mountain Project. It was originally listed as a 5.8, and we think that is a good grade for it. You can probably get it closer to a 5.7 by climbing on the face off to the right, but the climbing goods (both pro and the fun moves like jams and finger locks) are following the cracks. There are two rusty pins (hence the climb name) that Stef backed up with tiny nuts. Much of the climb is protected with small nuts - microcams were too big in spots.
Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY! (Definitely Fun though!)
Double Pin-etration (5.7+, trad) at N'Plus Ultra Wall, Willow Springs, Red Rock Canyon, NV (Photo Credit: Stefani Dawn)
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Stefani Dawn leading Double Pin-etration. She placed a small brass nut below the rusty pin as a "back-up." Stay in this crack to get the full experience of this climb - including some finger locks. If you go off to the right, you can probably turn this climb into a 5.7, but the fun is in the and up the crack! (Photo Credit: Rick Momsen)
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Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: October 9, 2023
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES: 1 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED: 80' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 190 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 256 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 23,375 NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 54 (out of 242) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 31,312' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 8 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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