(Click to enlarge photos)
CLIMB: Escondite (Trad, 5.7) (3 pitches)(~300') (We bailed on P3 because of bad rock, so climbed ~240 ft)
WALL: Slot Club
PROTECTION: Up to 5"
BEGINNER LEAD: No - A fair amount of bad rock would not make this fun for a new leader. Also, although (almost) everything is decently protectable this is a committing and heady climb.
Conclusion WTF? What the FUNNEL!
WALL: Slot Club
PROTECTION: Up to 5"
BEGINNER LEAD: No - A fair amount of bad rock would not make this fun for a new leader. Also, although (almost) everything is decently protectable this is a committing and heady climb.
Conclusion WTF? What the FUNNEL!
Pitch 1 - ~ 160 ft
The first 1/2 of the pitch is on fragile rock. The "balls" at the start look inviting, but we had several pop off. Go for lips and little ledges. On this pitch, the rock is the worst just before the tunnel and in the first part of the tunnel. Softball-sized chunks are loose or will easily break off. The challenge is navigating this without pummeling your belayer.
Once you enter the chimney/cavern/tunnel the rock turns into a slick, dark petina. A headlamp for the leader is helpful to see where to place gear. Although there are a few handholds, turn on your chimney game.
Set up the belay on a small ledge where you can either continue the chimney up or you can stem/step/traverse across an abyss to another ledge. These are the two options for pitch 2.
Once you enter the chimney/cavern/tunnel the rock turns into a slick, dark petina. A headlamp for the leader is helpful to see where to place gear. Although there are a few handholds, turn on your chimney game.
Set up the belay on a small ledge where you can either continue the chimney up or you can stem/step/traverse across an abyss to another ledge. These are the two options for pitch 2.
(Click to enlarge above photos)
Pitch 2 - ~80 ft
Pitch 2 - Grant is squeezing though the birth canal!
There are two options for pitch two:
1. Continue straight up, heading towards a small "birth canal" slot opening. OR
2. Stem/step/traverse across an abyss to another ledge where you will see a corner crack.
We took option 1 - the "birth canal" - because the rock quality looked poor across the abyss, with limited and less-than-confidence-inspiring protection. The climb description in Mountain Project described poor quality rock up the corner. We also figured there would be rope drag going around the formation to get into the corner (which is not visible from the belay station.)
For option 1, you will need larger pieces of protection and be prepared for a very tight squeeze. All three of us are on the "thinner" side and it was tight, especially where the figure-8 ties into the harness. I was initially concerned as the lone female in the group with wider hips and a bigger ass. To qualify this for you, I am a 5'5" woman, I am "curvey" in the and hips/ass and weigh 140 pounds and I was able to fit. Rick is 6' tall, rail-thin. and weighs 160 pounds. I would estimate Grant is similar to Rick.
We had to dangle packs and some of the larger gear below us to get through. Although you are inching and working hard, there are some small lips and ledges that can help advance progress.
After the squeeze, continue up low 5th class blocky terrain with not great rock and not many options for protection. We think the option 2 corner also spits you out at this same point - so it is unavoidable.
Belay at a large ledge with a great view. There is tat wrapped around a couple of small scrub oak.
1. Continue straight up, heading towards a small "birth canal" slot opening. OR
2. Stem/step/traverse across an abyss to another ledge where you will see a corner crack.
We took option 1 - the "birth canal" - because the rock quality looked poor across the abyss, with limited and less-than-confidence-inspiring protection. The climb description in Mountain Project described poor quality rock up the corner. We also figured there would be rope drag going around the formation to get into the corner (which is not visible from the belay station.)
For option 1, you will need larger pieces of protection and be prepared for a very tight squeeze. All three of us are on the "thinner" side and it was tight, especially where the figure-8 ties into the harness. I was initially concerned as the lone female in the group with wider hips and a bigger ass. To qualify this for you, I am a 5'5" woman, I am "curvey" in the and hips/ass and weigh 140 pounds and I was able to fit. Rick is 6' tall, rail-thin. and weighs 160 pounds. I would estimate Grant is similar to Rick.
We had to dangle packs and some of the larger gear below us to get through. Although you are inching and working hard, there are some small lips and ledges that can help advance progress.
After the squeeze, continue up low 5th class blocky terrain with not great rock and not many options for protection. We think the option 2 corner also spits you out at this same point - so it is unavoidable.
Belay at a large ledge with a great view. There is tat wrapped around a couple of small scrub oak.
Pitch 3 - ~75 ft
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Our WTF 5.7 guest Grant Corley started to lead this pitch. Scramble up more blocky, low 5th class terrain until you reach a wall. (It is difficult to see everything when belaying below.) Grant discovered that you have to traverse across a section of wall with some crappy rock in order to get to the main crack. After a couple of good sized rock chunks broke off while he was trying to get to the crack, we discussed whether it was worth it to continue and then, out of caution, we decided to bail on this pitch. Grant down climbed back to the belay spot and removed the gear he placed.
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Grant started up pitch 3, heading towards the large crack. You have to go across the face to access the crack and some large chunks of rock broke off. We decided to not do the third pitch.
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Getting Down
If you do all three pitches then three rappels are needed.
RAPPEL FROM PITCH 3: According to Mountain Project the rappel from pitch three is from a slung block. Because we were not up there, we cannot comment on the quality of the tat in the rappel or provide any details.
RAPPEL FROM THE TOP OF PITCH 2: We rappelled with twin 60s from the slung scrub oaks at the top of pitch two (which would be the start of the second rappel if you topped out on pitch three). Rappel down to the "white diving board." The first person should stay on rappel then walk across an exposed ledge (climber's right) to a nut/slung hole belay and secure onto the belay station. The last person rappelling should pull the rope from directly below to reduce the risk of getting the rope stuck. Toss the rope over the secured person and get a belay over to the next rappel station (the consequences of a fall off the thin ledge is death).
FINAL RAPPEL: We continued using our twin 60s for the last rappel to the ground. This will deposit you near the start of Escondite. Hug the wall to get back to the start and to avoid thick scrub brush.
RAPPEL FROM PITCH 3: According to Mountain Project the rappel from pitch three is from a slung block. Because we were not up there, we cannot comment on the quality of the tat in the rappel or provide any details.
RAPPEL FROM THE TOP OF PITCH 2: We rappelled with twin 60s from the slung scrub oaks at the top of pitch two (which would be the start of the second rappel if you topped out on pitch three). Rappel down to the "white diving board." The first person should stay on rappel then walk across an exposed ledge (climber's right) to a nut/slung hole belay and secure onto the belay station. The last person rappelling should pull the rope from directly below to reduce the risk of getting the rope stuck. Toss the rope over the secured person and get a belay over to the next rappel station (the consequences of a fall off the thin ledge is death).
FINAL RAPPEL: We continued using our twin 60s for the last rappel to the ground. This will deposit you near the start of Escondite. Hug the wall to get back to the start and to avoid thick scrub brush.
Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: November 6, 2021
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 1 NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 2.25 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 180' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 167 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 217 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 19,105 NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 71 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 31,972' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 8 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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