On this day we started off on Cereal Killer and went across the ledge in an attempt to find Grey Matter. The write-up on this page focuses on Cereal Killer.
Cereal Killer
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Climb: Cereal Killer (trad, 180' feet)
Wall: N'Plus Ultra Area Rope Used: 70m (a minimum of a 70m is needed for the rappel down Sleeper) Gear: Descriptions say "Standard Rack." The largest size we placed was a 4. Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? No. Not really good for anyone to bother with. Conclusion WTF? What the FORGET ABOUT IT! |
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This climb is only found in Mountain Project and the description says "pretty crispy rock that may clean up with time." Haha! It would need several thousand people to climb on it to clean it up and then it would no longer be in the vicinity of a 5.7...
This is truly a junky, uninspiring climb that has minimal protection in cruxes and consequential falls. There is no real "line" for the climb, so it just wanders. As the Mountain Project description says "try and stay near the edge/arete as you move up" - basically choose your own adventure. Our recommendation is to just forget about Cereal Killer. There are waaaayyyyy better climbs in the immediate vicinity. But if you insist, and want to use our beta, here is what we did. Referring to the first photo for this climb:
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Cereal Killer - Photo 1. Rick went to the right of the white upper fin-looking formation.
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Cereal Killer, mid route - Photo 2 - Again trying to stay right near the arete. There is a fair amount of lichen.
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Cereal Killer, end of route - Photo 3. There are multiple options to end the route. The climb description details why we chose this way.
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Because of the lack of a "line" and the wandery nature of the route, there really wasn't a clear way to go. We just continued to stay right in the vicinity of the arete. The end of the climb has three options"
(1) Continue up the white face to the top. Rick did not choose this way because the rock want from crappy to worse and protection (which was already minimal) appeared even less that way.
(2) Go up a chimney. Naaa - that had lot's of debris and no obvious protection - and why choose a chimney when you don't have to? Haha!
(3) Go up the ramp (Photo 3).
(1) Continue up the white face to the top. Rick did not choose this way because the rock want from crappy to worse and protection (which was already minimal) appeared even less that way.
(2) Go up a chimney. Naaa - that had lot's of debris and no obvious protection - and why choose a chimney when you don't have to? Haha!
(3) Go up the ramp (Photo 3).
The Walk-off to the Rappel
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Climber's left is a squeeze between two formations. Take off any packs the higher you get and go up/through this until you can climb out on top.
Head towards the Pine Tree that has tat. That is the rappel station located above the climb Sleeper. You need at least a 70m rope to do the rappel. |
Walk-off for Cereal Killer. Go up this (helps to remove pack) to the top. Walk across the top to the pine tree with tat. You need at least a 70m rope to rappel.
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Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: March 27, 2022
WALLS HIT: 2 NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS: 2 (one we could not find) NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES: 1 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED: 180' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 180 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 238 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 21,220 NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 57 (out of 238) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 29,877' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 8 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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