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        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
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​Day 15: Willow Springs

Crags: Mother's and Outhouse
Summary Haiku

Stench fills the nose
Spectators clap and cheer us
What the FEATHER-BAG!
​
START & END TIMES:
  • We had a long, chill climbing day with friends (Rust and Lawrence of Oregon). We arrived at around 8 a.m. and left around 6 p.m. 
  • We went to two walls (Mother's and Outhouse) to hit 5.7s Rick and I haven't done, but we hit some of the other climbs too. 
DATE OF CLIMBS: October 12, 2019
​WALLS HIT: 2 (Mother's and Outhouse)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS: 4 
NUMBER OF PITCHES: 4
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL 5.7 FEET CLIMBED: 360

TOTAL VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 3,980
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 192

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~46,182
DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3 (still - we've seemed to hit an underwear hiatus - not that we mind...)
Picture
Rusty, Rick, Stef, and Lawrence


​The Routes

Mother's Crag

A fun crag with a short approach and a bunch of easy and protectable trad climbs (with the exception of Yo Mama which is rated X and you can't really TR it from the Crag Hag anchor. You might be able to build an anchor to the left near the top of Crag Hag, to TR Yo Mama, but we didn't bother looking. We were ready to move onto the Outhouse!)
Picture
Climb: Mike's Route (Trad) (5.7+)(90')
Wall: Mother's Crag

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
  • A basic and straight-forward climb. It's rated a 7+ but we really didn't find it to have any "plus" about it. There was only one short section of slick rock with reduced holds that might give pause, but a tall person can pretty much reach his or her way through it. A shorter person might feel uncomfortable for a move or two. 
Picture
Picture
Rick leading Mike's Route
Climb: Crag Hag (Trad) (5.7+)(90')
Wall: Mother's Crag

Conclusion WTF? What the FEATHER-BAG!

  • We were expecting to get some WTFr's out of these 7+'s and it actually only got easier.
  • We weren't sure which side of the tree the climb went, so I picked right to begin with. After Rick was seconded up, we looked at each other and said, "That couldn't have been the correct way to go it was WAAAYY too easy. Let's go back down and climb to the left side of the tree. Well, that was even easier - haha!
  • There is a pine tree with tat for the rappel. I'm not sure why that tree was used. There is a closer pine tree that's just as big. I belayed from the closer pine tree to avoid running the rope over a bunch of dirt, pine needles, pine sap, and loose rocks. I also moved a lot of loose rocks from the edge of the climb top-out to prevent them from being knocked loose by the rope onto Rick. Check for rocks near the top-out because sand and rocks seem to accumulate there. 
Picture
Picture
Crag Hag - A fun climb, supposedly a 7+. This climb was considerably easier than the 5.5 a couple climbs over (Motorcycle Mama - next photo - a similar looking climb. Motorcycle Mama was interesting, fun, and quite different from Crag Hag).
Picture
Motorcycle Mama (5.5) - a super fun climb with a touch of spice for the grade. Considerably more challenging than Crag Hag.


Outhouse Wall

PeeEewww! The Outhouse Wall is called the Outhouse because, you guessed it, the crag is peering over the outhouse next to the Willow Springs picnic area. If the breeze (or lack thereof) is just so, you can get the ever-so-gag-inducing odors wafting up your nostrils, encouraging you to climb faster (Yes, such the good hosts we are by taking our friends here. Fortunately they liked the climbs enough that they forgave us.)

The picnic area is also directly below the wall and you will be the Red Rock Cirque De Soleil entertainment for the picnicers and passers-by. We received some claps and whoops for our gallant efforts on these 5.7 climbs. It can certainly fluff up the ego if you need some boosts on a down day (just ignore the smell - or maybe you'll get lucky and you'll miss the smell all together.)

Now onto the climbs.
Climb: Partly Sonnie (Toprope) (5.7)(60')
Wall: Outhouse

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
  • This climb can only be found in Mountain Project (not in the Handren guidebook).
  • You can access the top of this climb by scrambling up on the far left side of the formation. 
  • There are bolted anchors (which is not mentioned in the MP description). Bring long anchor material because the bolts are quite far back.
  • This climb is rated as half-a-star in Mountain Project but we enjoyed it. There is a large section of sandy, very hollow rock that you might want to be careful yarding on, but we found this climb to offer challenge and diversity. 
Picture
Partly Sonnie
Climb: Spiderline (Trad) (5.7)(120')
Wall: Outhouse

Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
  • Fun? Definitely. Feisty? Yeppers.
    • This was definitely a much more serious 5.7 compared to those one's at Mother's Wall. 
    • It's feisty on the top half because the rock gets a little slick, the holds decrease considerably, and you have to really search to find protection in the cracks of the petina. Bring small nuts/wires and tiny cams for this upper section (and bigger stuff for the off-width below - Rick only had up to a #4 and had to reach deep to make the placement. You could probably place a #5 without having to reach as deep.). There is decking potential on the upper ledge if you aren't able to find pro (which is particularly scarce the first 15' or so off the ledge).
    • There are two ways to top-out. Rick went through the notch which is protectable and possibly a bit more interesting and challenging than going left of the notch. 
  • You need a full 70m rope to rappel down or you can walk-off to climber's left. 
Picture
Picture
Spiderline - Rick reaching deep to place pro.


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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        • Amusement Park
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        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
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        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
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        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
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        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
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          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
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        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
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        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
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        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
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