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        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
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          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
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          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
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        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
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          • Day 16: Myster Z
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          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
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      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6 (and 90): Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
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      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: In Through the Out Door (Ridinghood Wall)
        • Day 91: Guys and Ghouls
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs >
        • Angel Food Wall >
          • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
        • Seraphim Wall >
          • Day 91: Ride the Wind
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
        • Day 94: Double Pin-etration N'Plus Ultra
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Day 47: Sandstone Quarry

WALLS: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
CLIMBS: Man's Best Friend, Crusty Creatures, & Glue Gun
SUMMARY HAIKU

Two walls and three climbs
​Glue Gun stuck it to us - ow!
4th pair of undies
​​

I think we need to stop saying we are going to do x number of climbs. It's a jinx!

We had planned to hit three walls (Man's Best Friend, Americrag, and Running Man) and four climbs (5 pitches). Instead we hit two walls (Man's Best Friend, Americrag) and three climbs (4 pitches). Glue Gun on Americrag (a "What the Forget About It!") ended up being a scary climb and a time-suck. By the time we got done, it was too hot to go to Running Man. The climbs on Man's Best Friend wall were a blast though!

It's been a while since we've run across some rogue undies. Today ended the "drought" with a nasty pair of dinosaur undies from a kiddo that did what he would've done if a T
yrannosaurus Rex was about to engulf him...
Picture

WALL: Man's Best Friend

Picture
Picture

​Access to Man's Best Friend wall is in a steep gully. There are two ways to get down, rappel or scramble down 3rd/4th class terrain. We rappelled down and scrambled back up. ​
Picture

​There is a sign near the very first parking spot as you enter into Sandstone Quarry, use this sign as your reference point to locate the scramble and anchors. From the sign, walk directly up the white slab heading nearly straight back towards Man's Best Friend. When you get to the steep gully look for some bolted anchors that face left (as you are looking at Man's Best Friend.)
  1. Rappel - These bolted anchors are a little awkward to access. 
  2. Scramble -  If you want to scramble down (this will also be the way to get back up) go left from the anchors until you hit a small wall. You will see two crevices. Take the second crevice that angles down to the right (its a bit of a squeeze, packs may need to be taken off). 

CLIMB: Man's Best Friend
Climb: Man's Best Friend (Sport) (5.7)(2 pitches - 180')
Wall: Man's Best Friend
Beginner Climb? Yes

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!

  • Surprisingly solid rock and well placed bolts make this a blast of a climb. Pure fun. 
Picture
Rick, Pitch 1, Man's Best Friend
Picture
Stef at the anchors atop pitch 2 getting ready to bring Rick up.


​CLIMB: Crusty Creatures
Climb: Crusty Creatures (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitch - 140')
Wall: Man's Best Friend
Pro: single rack to #4, there are four bolts at the beginning of the climb and bolted anchors, 70 m rope
Beginner Trad Climb? A confident beginner. It's spicier than Man's Best Friend.

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!

  • From the base of Man's Best Friend, go up the steep ramp (if you are facing the wall with the climbs it's to the left) to get to the base of Crusty Creatures. 
  • This one is definitely spicier than Man's Best Friend. The bolts at the beginning are farther distance apart than Man's Best Friend with a spicy move, the rock quality is not as good, and if you follow the original route line (traversing and then up) it's a spicy move over a bulge that can only be protected by a small cam. 
  • Mountain Project gives an alternative option up before the traverse, we did not go this way and cannot comment on it - except that it looks potentially run out. If you go the original way, bring one #4 cam to protect the traverse. 
  • We didn't want to down-climb the steep ramp (a fall would suck), so we did two rappels. From the bolted anchors we rappelled to the anchors at the top of pitch 1 of Man's Best Friend (angling over some). Then rappelled to the base of Man's Best Friend.  
Picture
Picture

WALL: Americrag (south wall)


​CLIMB: Glue Gun
​

Climb: Glue Gun (Sport) (5.7)(1 pitch - 65')
Wall: Americrag (south wall)
Pro: 3 bolts (bad bolts) + 2 bolt anchor (these bolts are good)
Beginner Climb:
Hell NO!
Conclusion WTF? What the FORGET ABOUT IT!

  • This climb could be fun IF: The rock were better/it was cleaned, it had more bolts AND it had bolts that won't kill you (there are only three bolts - all bad! - in 65 feet - Handren lists this as a 50 foot climb, it's longer). So until these things are fixed (more bolts, new bolts, remove crap rock) it's pretty damn scary. 
  • Although there are some easy sections, this climb is not 5.7. There are a couple tricky sections on the face and the bulge at the top - it's more like 5.9.
  • I (Stef) lead this climb up to the third bolt and was frazzled by the time I got there (because I felt like I was soloing). The distances between the bolts are pretty long (with crap rock) AND the bolts are rusted. The second bolt has a chunk of rock that fell out behind the hangar, exposing a decent section of the bolt stem. That bolt definitely would not have held in a fall. After the third bolt, I began to climb to the anchors and backed down twice. I just didn't have any more focus left to deal with an unprotected bulge move AND after seeing the bolts up to that point, I didn't want to face a horrific anchor. I decided I'd rather take the risk and have Rick lower me off the rusty third bolt than to finish the climb (fortunately the third bolt was the best of the three, and it got me down safely.)
  • Rick lead the final 15 feet. It's a VERY insecure, unprotected slabby bulge move that favors the tall. Rick is 6 feet tall and had to really stretch to reach a shit hold. I re-did the climb on toprope to finish it and see how the ending was. Wow, super spicy for a "5.7" lead. A retro-bolt to protect that move would improve the experience greatly. In fact a whole retro-bolt, some climb clean-up, and upping the grade to a 5.9 would make this a decent climb. For now, it's shit, so forget about it. 
  • I debated between calling it a "What the Fucker" versus a "What the Forget About It." One of the criteria for a "what the Fucker" is the F-word is said by the lead climber during the climb. No f-words were said, so it doesn't fit that criteria.
Picture

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: June 26, 2020
​WALLS HIT: 2
NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 3
NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 4
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 1 (Stef on Glue Gun)
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 370

DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 1 (it's been a while - can't say I missed it, this one was pretty gross - let's just say a poor kiddo had an accident...)

​START & END TIMES:
  • Arrived Parking Lot: 6:15 a.m.
  • Arrived at Wall: 6:40 a.m.
  • Began: 7:00 a.m.
  • Done Climbing: 11:30 a.m.
  • Back at Car: 12:00 p.m.
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 110
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 149.75

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 12,970'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 127 (out of 237)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 37,777'
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • WT Fua: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
    • WTFun: Cialis Cleft (took to figure out the moves on start)
    • WTF'r: Guys and Ghouls
    • Takes As a second:
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (took the first time, not the second)
  • Rick - On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: ​​​​​​​​​​​4


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  • Home
  • Blog
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • WTF 5.7 Climbs
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
          • Day 94: Romanian Rib Right
          • Day 95: Romanian Rib Left
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Day 88: Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6 (and 90): Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
        • Day 92: Beulah's Arete
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: In Through the Out Door (Ridinghood Wall)
        • Day 91: Guys and Ghouls
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs >
        • Angel Food Wall >
          • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
        • Seraphim Wall >
          • Day 91: Ride the Wind
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
        • Day 94: Double Pin-etration N'Plus Ultra
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear