SUMMARY HAIKU
Necco Waif is fun
But the anchors might kill ya'
No climbing for Rick
Necco Waif is fun
But the anchors might kill ya'
No climbing for Rick
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Necco Waif
Climb: Necco Waif (Trad) (40')
Gear: Singles to 3"
Wall: Calico 1
Beginner's Lead? Yes, I think so. It's not a super-easy gimmie, but it's all there.
Conclusion WTF? FUN! (except for the bad bolted anchors! Probably should avoid this until they are repaired.)
Gear: Singles to 3"
Wall: Calico 1
Beginner's Lead? Yes, I think so. It's not a super-easy gimmie, but it's all there.
Conclusion WTF? FUN! (except for the bad bolted anchors! Probably should avoid this until they are repaired.)
A short, fun crack that looks easier than it is. It requires some jamming (finger and hand) in spots. It protects well, but, as of this writing in October 2020, the bolted anchors are bad! Not only are the hangers spinning (which doesn't always mean bad bolts if the bolts themselves are solid), but BOTH bolts move and the worst bolt has visible loss of rock beneath the hangar.
When you encounter a situation like this, there is a technique you can use to increase protection should the bolts/anchor give while lowering:
This crag has multiple sport climbs (5.8+-5.11).. We were excited to check out some of those climbs, but unfortunately we encountered more bad anchors and bolts, so we decided this crag might need a little bolting TLC and went to another wall to do more climbing.
When you encounter a situation like this, there is a technique you can use to increase protection should the bolts/anchor give while lowering:
- Place a friction knot on the rope that goes through the gear, ABOVE the gear. Attach the friction knot to a rated piece of your harness.
- If the anchor were to break, the climber would fall the distance the friction knot is above the next piece of gear.
This crag has multiple sport climbs (5.8+-5.11).. We were excited to check out some of those climbs, but unfortunately we encountered more bad anchors and bolts, so we decided this crag might need a little bolting TLC and went to another wall to do more climbing.
Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: October 1, 2020
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS TODAY: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES TODAY: 1 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 5.7 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 40' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 START & END TIMES:
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 135 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 178 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 15,435' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 103 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 35,312' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 5 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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