See below for a fun three climb multi-pitch! Plus, this is a good new trad lead 5.7 roof.
Footloose
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Rick at the roof on Footloose - a good 5.7 practice roof.
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Climb: Footloose (Trad, 60 feet, walk-off right to tat-anchor on tree for short rappel to avoid down-climbing OR do the fun 3-pitch day described below)
Wall: In MP it is listed under Ragged Edges, but it really belongs under Graduate Cliff (this climb is not in Handren)
Rope: We used a 70m
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? Yes. This would be a good "first roof" trad lead. It's protectable, the holds are all there, but it takes a little bit of exploration to find the right moves.
Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
Footloose is a short, fun, well-protected climb. There are a mix of slopey and petina holds and knobs. The white rock is a little sandy and slightly weak, but nothing too problematic. In all, the rock is decent. This would be a good first roof for a new leader. It's well protected and doesn't require any big, muscle-y moves. There are decent holds when you need them, but it does require a little thinking and exploring to find the right sequence - it puts a little "roof pressure" on, but doesn't go into "code red."
This climb is only found on Mountain Project and it is listed under Ragged Edges Wall, but it is actually located on the tier above Ragged Edges. We think it should be listed under the Graduate Cliff, because it is on that same tier and not too far from the far left-end climbs on Graduate Cliff (Pre Skool and Pick Your Poison).
When you top-out on this climb go right and follow the ledge until you see a tree with tat and a rap ring. You can do a short rappel down to the tier (or down-climb if you prefer) where you can locate the main approach trail to Footloose and the left end of Graduate Cliff. Or....
OR - Do a fun 3-pitch day
Don't rap just yet! Continue the climbing by doing the first pitch of Pre Skool (5.7+, which has a quite serious roof and is NOT for beginning leaders), then Pick Your Poison. This makes for a really fun, challenging, and diverse day on 3 great climbs.
(TIP: Walkie Talkies will be really helpful if you do the 3-pitch climbing. If the second has trouble on the Pre Skool roof, you all can communicate. And, you likely will not be able to hear commands on Pick Your Poison. Our Rocky Talkies did have a little trouble with reception in the chimney.)
This climb is only found on Mountain Project and it is listed under Ragged Edges Wall, but it is actually located on the tier above Ragged Edges. We think it should be listed under the Graduate Cliff, because it is on that same tier and not too far from the far left-end climbs on Graduate Cliff (Pre Skool and Pick Your Poison).
When you top-out on this climb go right and follow the ledge until you see a tree with tat and a rap ring. You can do a short rappel down to the tier (or down-climb if you prefer) where you can locate the main approach trail to Footloose and the left end of Graduate Cliff. Or....
OR - Do a fun 3-pitch day
Don't rap just yet! Continue the climbing by doing the first pitch of Pre Skool (5.7+, which has a quite serious roof and is NOT for beginning leaders), then Pick Your Poison. This makes for a really fun, challenging, and diverse day on 3 great climbs.
(TIP: Walkie Talkies will be really helpful if you do the 3-pitch climbing. If the second has trouble on the Pre Skool roof, you all can communicate. And, you likely will not be able to hear commands on Pick Your Poison. Our Rocky Talkies did have a little trouble with reception in the chimney.)
Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: October 9, 2020
WALLS HIT: 2 (Also hit climbs on Graduate Cliff, Day 61 is on a different page) NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS TODAY: 3.5 (includes the climbs we did on Graduate Cliff) NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES TODAY: 4.5 (includes the climbs we did on Graduate Cliff) NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 5.7 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 400' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 138 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 182 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 15,795' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 100 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 34,952' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 5 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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