The N'Plus Ultra wall has five 5.7 climbs - two of which we did on this day.:
Completed:
Because it's the middle of summer and damn hot outside, we came here in the late afternoon to catch the shade. Unfortunately today there was no breeze to help cool things down, so it felt particularly warm and we moved slower. After we finished Lucky Charms and Geezer Face we were concerned we'd run out of sun to do Cereal Killer which is a longer climb on poor quality rock with an unclear decent - not something we wanted to do in the dark. Then we want to combine Pillar Talk with Chocolate Tranquility Fountain, which we knew we would not have enough time for. So, we stopped after two, decided we were hungry, and decided to go get some Vietnamese food.
Completed:
- Lucky Charms (80 ft)
- Geezer Face (80 ft)
- Cereal Killer (150 ft)
- Pillar Talk (2 pitches - 200')
- Chocolate Tranquility Fountain (located on the 2nd tear)
Because it's the middle of summer and damn hot outside, we came here in the late afternoon to catch the shade. Unfortunately today there was no breeze to help cool things down, so it felt particularly warm and we moved slower. After we finished Lucky Charms and Geezer Face we were concerned we'd run out of sun to do Cereal Killer which is a longer climb on poor quality rock with an unclear decent - not something we wanted to do in the dark. Then we want to combine Pillar Talk with Chocolate Tranquility Fountain, which we knew we would not have enough time for. So, we stopped after two, decided we were hungry, and decided to go get some Vietnamese food.
Lucky Charms
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Climb: Lucky Charms (lead, 80 feet)
Wall: N'Plus Ultra Area Rope: 70m Gear: Descriptions say pro to 4" but the largest size we placed was a 3. Usually I go one size larger than what pro descriptions say and many times I end up using that larger piece - not here. Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? Yes, especially if you go left before the crux, traversing to the bolted anchors. This climb is well protected. Conclusion WTF? What the FUN! Lucky Charms is a fun, well-protected climb. Most of the climb is in the 5.6 range and the main 5.7 crux is at the top (white bulge).
There are two options for finishing the climb: (1) You can keep the climb in the easier range by going left at the last bolt on the bolted climb to the left then head up to the bolted anchor. (2) Follow the crack through the white bulge (crux). Set up an anchor above the climb and bring up your second. Then both go to the tree to rappel (do not try to belay up the second from the tree.) |
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Geezer Face (5.7+)
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Climb: Geezer's Face (lead, 80 feet)
Wall: N'Plus Ultra Rope: 70m Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? Maybe... maybe not... If you are comfortable with stemming and a couple of committing moves and a mildly spicy (protected by a bolt) finish, then probably... Conclusion WTF? What the FABULOUS! We loved this climb! And, even though it's rated a 5.7+, we didn't feel it was particularly plus-y (at least compared to other 5.7 trad climbs out there.)
This is a well-protected climb that requires you to think and pull a few moves out of your bag of tricks. There are places where the climb feels potentially committing, then you make the move and it's like, "oh, ok. That was fun." At the top there is a single bolt protecting the face, which is a hair spicy with some smaller holds. Make a couple moves, then you are home free to the bolted anchors. What we loved about this climb was the variety of moves and the thinking it takes - yet it's all beautifully there. |
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Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: June 25, 2021
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 5.7 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 160' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 162 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 209 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 18,475' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 76 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 32,422' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 8 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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