SUMMARY HAIKU
Smoke from CA wildfires
Dirty undies number 5
Two "What the Feisty!"
Smoke from CA wildfires
Dirty undies number 5
Two "What the Feisty!"
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Elementary Primer
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UPDATE: As of 2023 additional bolts have been added to this climb so it is probably a little less spicy now. At some point we may re-climb it to see whether the new bolts change our WT Feisty rating.
Climb: Elementary Primer (Mixed Trad or bolted/sportish if you forego protection after the 3rd bolt) (5.7+)(70')
Wall: Big Red Book Beginner Lead: No Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY! Rick stick clipped the first bolt, which is pretty high and nice to have since there are some spicy moves down low (and at the 3rd bolt). Then there are two more bolts that are a reasonable distance apart, with run out between bolt three and the anchor. The terrain after the third bolt is mostly lower angle, then about 10-12 feet below the anchor it gets more vertical but with juggy black petina. You can protect the moves to the anchor with a tiny cam or nut in the petina. Although a fall is unlikely, if something broke, it would be a really big fall with decking considering the undulations of the rock. The rock quality was better than anticipated. The climbing is decent and feisty in spots, but but not particularly memorable. |
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Seams Novel
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UPDATE: As of 2023 bolts and a second pitch have been added to this climb. At some point we may re-climb it to see whether the new bolts change our WT Feisty rating.
Climb: Seams Novel (Tad) (5.7+)(80')
Wall: Big Red Book Beginner Lead: No way Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY! Rick was a leading-fiend today, so he lead this climb too. We were initially concerned about the protection on this climb, but microcams save the day - or at least the first 20 feet or so - and then nuts (micro-medium) and pro to 1" take care of the rest. There is a bolt about 20 feet up and, although it is fun, the entire route to the bolt is NOT a 5.7 - it's definitely the "plus" (Mountain Project calls this a 5.8, which is an appropriate rating, and may even be a 5.8+). The moves right before the bolt are feisty and difficult to protect, Rick lassoed a shallow chicken head for mental pro. This climb is consistently more difficult than Elementary Primer. The combination of "tiny"/selective protection (which is heady) and challenging terrain, may push this climb into WTF'r territory (Rick did actually say "fuck a couple times,) but we didn't feel like it quite make it there. This is NOT a beginner lead! |
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We followed the seam/crack all the way into the scoop then traversed over to the anchors. There is a second bolt on the face, and we aren't sure if that's for this climb or a face variation. Honestly, we found the seam/crack to be fun and have personality, so we'd recommend that. We liked this climb better than Elementary Primer, to the left. We really did think this climb was enjoyable.
It seems we run into dirty, abandoned underwear a fair amount, so way back when we started this thing we began tracking and photographing the encounters - you know, we want you to have the full experience. So here you go, dirty underwear encounter number 5....
Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: September 7, 2020
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 150 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 1 START & END TIMES:
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 132 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 174 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 15,160' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 106 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 35,587' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 5 |
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
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