SUMMARY HAIKU

From "Fun" splitter cracks
To junk - "Forget About It"
Two climbs in between
DATE OF CLIMBS:
February 2, 2020 (Boise & Coeur d'Alene)
February 14, 2020 (Sex in the Scrub Oak & Radio Free Kansas)
February 15, 2020 (Return to Sender)
​WALLS HIT: 1 (Flight Path)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS: 5 (though we did others here too)
NUMBER OF PITCHES HERE: 5 (though we did others here too)
VERTICAL 5.7 FEET CLIMBED HERE: 375'
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
TAKES HERE: 0
DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 93
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 117
TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 9,250'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 144 (out of 237 - although we may redo Pre-Skool)
VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~41,047
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3​​​​​​​​​​
APPROACH TIME:  ~50 minutes

We didn't keep track of time coming here, doing the climbs, or leaving because on two of the three days we came with friends and climbed other things for fun!

Climbs
​
(Presented from Left to Right Across the Wall)

THE IDAHO CRACKS
Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
These are short (~30 ft), super fun crack climbs that are over too soon!

The left-most crack, Couer d'Alene is variable, from fingers to small hand.

Boise is an awesome mostly hand-sized crack, except at the top where it gets wide (if you want to place a #5 for exit you can) otherwise a #4 might be your last piece.)

At the top is a tree with webbing. If you plan to toprope other climbs (you need to lead a climb to access the tree), please use your own anchor and don't TR through the rap ring. 

The two 5.8s are also awesome. Idaho Falls has a tough, wide, undercut start. Stanley is freaking beautiful, but a bit unnerving to access and get started on (if you are leading) because you are standing on a small ledge. Top roping this climb (use a directional) will mitigate that issue. 
SEX IN THE SCRUB OAK
Conclusion WTF? What the FUN! or What the FUNK! (Depending on when you end the climb)
Picture
Stef on Sex in the Scrub Oak. The Handren Guidebook says pro to #3 and Mountain Project says to #4, we used both #4s, a #5, and wished we had a #6 (it's ~20 feet run out without a 6. I wouldn't trust any pro in the smaller stuff inside the crack). I did the exit via the anchor above the climb (which we think is an anchor for another climb, but it works and is the most direct line.)
Picture
Rick doing the right side exit. He used the bolt near the top (with a triple sling), then traversed ~15 feet across soft, sandy rock to the next small crack where he could place a tiny piece. He went up from there.
We are giving this climb two different ratings depending on where you end it.
  • Be aware this climb does have an "offwidthy" style of climbing depending on how you choose to approach it. Rick and I both really liked this climb, but as you can see from the video below, our friend Neil (from Neilico Nut Tool) didn't like the climb at all and for him, it felt like it was a WTF'r!
  • The largest pro we had with us was a #5 (and we did use it, along with two #4s) and we wish we had our #6 (it was run out about 20 feet without the #6). The 2016 Handren Guidebook says pro to #3 and Mountain Project says to #4. In the wide section there were some spots for smaller pro that I would not trust (thin flakes and medium sized rocks wedged in sand. These formations would likely not hold in a fall AND could seriously hurt your belayer if dislodged.)
OPTION 1 - What the FUN!
End at the bolted anchors at the top of the climb (we aren't sure if these are anchors for another climb or if they were put there for this climb to avoid the "old" exit.) Either way, ending this route sooner makes it more fun. You do have to navigate some loose, crappy rock to get to the anchor so be extra careful to protect your belayer! There is one bolt to protect on the way up to the anchors. 
A different opinion of "Sex and the Scrub Oak!"
OPTION 2 - What the FUNK!
The original climb went out right and up to a bush that was slung. Fortunately there are now bolted anchors on a nice ledge you can access for the two (run out) "sport" climbs on the face. Some climb descriptions say to follow the roof line out to the right. I would strongly recommend against that. There is no protection and the rock is absolute crap. 

Instead, once you exit the main crack, start heading out right. Rick clipped a triple sling to a bolt (see the photo above with Rick in it) and traversed across soft, unprotectable, crumbly rock for about 15 feet (yes a fall would be ugly). Rick placed a small piece of pro in the first crack he encountered. At this point he went up on better rock. We call this version of the climb What the FUNK, because the rock isn't great and you have to go a ways to protect it. It just doesn't add to the climb - in fact, it detracts. The only reason to end it this way it to access the anchors to top rope the super fun face climbs.

Another possible option is to start traversing up and right bit sooner and finish on the 5.6 crack climb called "Ignore the Man Behind the Screen" (we don't know the protection needed for that option because we didn't do it.)
RADIO FREE KANSAS (5.7+)
Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
This 5.7+ climb is feisty with "take it when you get it" protection. The crack is variable, closing and opening for protection. The top section has a few widely placed bolts on easier slabby/slopey/sandy rock. There are bolted anchors at the top (shared with the 5.10a and 5.9+ face climbs).

To access the start, it requires traversing across an exposed ledge (see photo). 

NOTE: The 2016 Handren guidebook has this climb incorrectly marked in the photo! The climb that is marked in the photo is called "Return to Sender" (5.7+, R) which sucks really bad (we review that climb below.)
Picture
Radio Free Kansas (5.7+) is the left leaning crack that ends on bolted slabby/slopey/sandy rock. Use the bolted anchors at the top on the ledge.
RETURN TO SENDER (5.7+, R)
Conclusion WTF? What the FORGET ABOUT IT!

​I feel sorry for people who accidentally get sucked onto this climb (because it is mislabled as Radio Free Kansas in the Handren guidebook.) I feel sorry for us because we did this climb - by choice...

How this climb sucks, let us count the ways:
  • Really, really terrible, crumbly rock - especially when you need it (like, say pulling the roof, or just trying to basically get up...)
  • Being met with large amounts of sand and good sized stones and very few holds when trying to pull one of the ledges (don't crush your belayer!)
  • Run out across weak sandy rock

Do yourself a favor and place this one on the "do not climb list." We give it a definite "bomb."
Picture
Rick at the beginning of Return to Sender - and it only gets worse from here...
Picture
Return to Sender is the right most 5.7 on Flight Path. Don't even bother with this really, really crappy climb.


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