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Pine Creek Canyon

WALL: Flight Path
SUMMARY HAIKU

From "Fun" splitter cracks
To junk - "Forget About It"
Two climbs in between
Picture
DATE OF CLIMBS:
February 2, 2020 (Boise & Coeur d'Alene)
February 14, 2020 (Sex in the Scrub Oak & Radio Free Kansas)
February 15, 2020 (Return to Sender)

​WALLS HIT: 1 (Flight Path)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS: 5 (though we did others here too)
NUMBER OF PITCHES HERE: 5 (though we did others here too)
VERTICAL 5.7 FEET CLIMBED HERE: 375'
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
TAKES HERE: 0

DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 93
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 117

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 9,250'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 144 (out of 237 - although we may redo Pre-Skool)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~41,047
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool
  • Rick - On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3​​​​​​​​​​
APPROACH TIME:  ~50 minutes

We didn't keep track of time coming here, doing the climbs, or leaving because on two of the three days we came with friends and climbed other things for fun!

Climbs
​
(Presented from Left to Right Across the Wall)

THE IDAHO CRACKS
Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
Picture
Picture
These are short (~30 ft), super fun crack climbs that are over too soon!

The left-most crack, Couer d'Alene is variable, from fingers to small hand.

Boise is an awesome mostly hand-sized crack, except at the top where it gets wide (if you want to place a #5 for exit you can) otherwise a #4 might be your last piece.)

At the top is a tree with webbing. If you plan to toprope other climbs (you need to lead a climb to access the tree), please use your own anchor and don't TR through the rap ring. 

The two 5.8s are also awesome. Idaho Falls has a tough, wide, undercut start. Stanley is freaking beautiful, but a bit unnerving to access and get started on (if you are leading) because you are standing on a small ledge. Top roping this climb (use a directional) will mitigate that issue. 

SEX IN THE SCRUB OAK
Conclusion WTF? What the FUN! or What the FUNK! (Depending on when you end the climb)
Picture
Stef on Sex in the Scrub Oak. The Handren Guidebook says pro to #3 and Mountain Project says to #4, we used both #4s, a #5, and wished we had a #6 (it's ~20 feet run out without a 6. I wouldn't trust any pro in the smaller stuff inside the crack). I did the exit via the anchor above the climb (which we think is an anchor for another climb, but it works and is the most direct line.)
Picture
Rick doing the right side exit. He used the bolt near the top (with a triple sling), then traversed ~15 feet across soft, sandy rock to the next small crack where he could place a tiny piece. He went up from there.
We are giving this climb two different ratings depending on where you end it.
  • Be aware this climb does have an "offwidthy" style of climbing depending on how you choose to approach it. Rick and I both really liked this climb, but as you can see from the video below, our friend Neil (from Neilico Nut Tool) didn't like the climb at all and for him, it felt like it was a WTF'r!
  • The largest pro we had with us was a #5 (and we did use it, along with two #4s) and we wish we had our #6 (it was run out about 20 feet without the #6). The 2016 Handren Guidebook says pro to #3 and Mountain Project says to #4. In the wide section there were some spots for smaller pro that I would not trust (thin flakes and medium sized rocks wedged in sand. These formations would likely not hold in a fall AND could seriously hurt your belayer if dislodged.)
Picture
OPTION 1 - What the FUN!
End at the bolted anchors at the top of the climb (we aren't sure if these are anchors for another climb or if they were put there for this climb to avoid the "old" exit.) Either way, ending this route sooner makes it more fun. You do have to navigate some loose, crappy rock to get to the anchor so be extra careful to protect your belayer! There is one bolt to protect on the way up to the anchors. 
A different opinion of "Sex and the Scrub Oak!"
OPTION 2 - What the FUNK!
The original climb went out right and up to a bush that was slung. Fortunately there are now bolted anchors on a nice ledge you can access for the two (run out) "sport" climbs on the face. Some climb descriptions say to follow the roof line out to the right. I would strongly recommend against that. There is no protection and the rock is absolute crap. 

Instead, once you exit the main crack, start heading out right. Rick clipped a triple sling to a bolt (see the photo above with Rick in it) and traversed across soft, unprotectable, crumbly rock for about 15 feet (yes a fall would be ugly). Rick placed a small piece of pro in the first crack he encountered. At this point he went up on better rock. We call this version of the climb What the FUNK, because the rock isn't great and you have to go a ways to protect it. It just doesn't add to the climb - in fact, it detracts. The only reason to end it this way it to access the anchors to top rope the super fun face climbs.

Another possible option is to start traversing up and right bit sooner and finish on the 5.6 crack climb called "Ignore the Man Behind the Screen" (we don't know the protection needed for that option because we didn't do it.)

RADIO FREE KANSAS (5.7+)
Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
This 5.7+ climb is feisty with "take it when you get it" protection. The crack is variable, closing and opening for protection. The top section has a few widely placed bolts on easier slabby/slopey/sandy rock. There are bolted anchors at the top (shared with the 5.10a and 5.9+ face climbs).

To access the start, it requires traversing across an exposed ledge (see photo). 

NOTE: The 2016 Handren guidebook has this climb incorrectly marked in the photo! The climb that is marked in the photo is called "Return to Sender" (5.7+, R) which sucks really bad (we review that climb below.)
Picture
Picture
Radio Free Kansas (5.7+) is the left leaning crack that ends on bolted slabby/slopey/sandy rock. Use the bolted anchors at the top on the ledge.

RETURN TO SENDER (5.7+, R)
Conclusion WTF? What the FORGET ABOUT IT!

​
I feel sorry for people who accidentally get sucked onto this climb (because it is mislabled as Radio Free Kansas in the Handren guidebook.) I feel sorry for us because we did this climb - by choice...

How this climb sucks, let us count the ways:
  • Really, really terrible, crumbly rock - especially when you need it (like, say pulling the roof, or just trying to basically get up...)
  • Being met with large amounts of sand and good sized stones and very few holds when trying to pull one of the ledges (don't crush your belayer!)
  • Run out across weak sandy rock

Do yourself a favor and place this one on the "do not climb list." We give it a definite "bomb."
Picture
Rick at the beginning of Return to Sender - and it only gets worse from here...
Picture
Return to Sender is the right most 5.7 on Flight Path. Don't even bother with this really, really crappy climb.



​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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  • Home
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  • Map Details
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    • Map Elements
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  • About
  • Blog
    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
  • Contact
    • Feedback
  • Retail Stores
  • Media Coverage
  • Calendar