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          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
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        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
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        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
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        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
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First Creek Canyon

School Yard 1 (2 of 5 climbs)
Deja Vu & Short Subject
SUMMARY HAIKU

A WTF'r!
And a What the FAIL! Oh, No!
Arghhh, three more climbs left

Picture
The School Yard is an "old school" area, sees very few visitors, and has very little information (Is it a walk-off? Or, is there an anchor? Any beta? Nope...Your guess is as good as mine...). 

There are five 5.7's at the School Yard and we intended to knock out all five climbs. But the climbing Gods had other ideas - we ended up only doing two. BOTH of which were in the "What the Fucker" territory. Rick's climb, Deja Vu, was a "What the FAIL!" and may have been a WTF'r, but he got frustrated and decided to bail. The second climb, called Short Subject, which I lead, was a "What the FUCK!" It was difficult from bottom to top (that ain't no 5.7!) and the top was chock full of a lot of freaky, loose rocks (which impacted our plans to top rope Dunce's Corner.) (climb details below).

Dunce's Corner is rated as a "bomb" on Mountain Project. We usually try to top rope "bombs" in an attempt at self-preservation. However, the sheer amount of loose rocks above that climb was too dangerous to top rope, leaving us with the decision that we will have to lead it - if we dare. But after two side-swiping climbs in a row, there was no way in hell we were leading that climb today!

​To add to the mix, the approach to the School Yard is no gimmie. Like its neighbor Mt. Wilson, the "front side access" is deceptive (i.e. it's farther than it looks), plus it's steep and loose. In addition, getting from the far left end of School Yard (location of Deja Vu) over to the other climbs, is about 30-40 minutes of loose, steep hiking (see the above photo). Ya' know, you can only take so much fuckage in a day, so we quit while we were behind. 

The three remaining climbs we need to complete at the School Yard are:

Dunce's Corner - 80 ft (rated a "Bomb" on MP. Oooh, fun. This is the one we hoped we could toprope, but looks like it will need to be lead.)
Sunday School - 100 ft (why do I think this might not be as innocent as it sounds.?)
Schoolyard Bully - 120 ft (an offwidth that needs 7s and 8s.... hmmmm, we don't own those yet... time to invest? Rick says he refuses to buy the big cams because that means we'd have the tools to do off-widths. If we don't own the gear we can't do the climbs right?! Totally expecting a struggle fest with this one. Hey Irene (Lady Lockoff) - wanna join us on this one?!)

CLIMB - Deja Vu

Picture
The start of Deja Vu gets the blood pumping.

CLIMB: Deja Vu (Trad, 5.7) (1 pitch)(~120' but we bailed to the adjacent climb and went about 100')
WALL: School Yard
PROTECTION: Up to 4" - but we didn't do the whole climb. 
BEGINNER LEAD: Nope! 
Conclusion WTF? What the FAIL!
The climb began with a muscle-y start that will get your blood pumping. It moves into some blocky terrain before reaching the hand-sized crack.  The crack is buried in the corner, making it kind of awkward, but still interesting. The crack gets more "buried" in the corner as you go up. A combo of hand jams, small holds, and stemming get you up. 

Rick disappeared into the corner for a bit, then he yelled "TAKE!" This is only the third take Rick has done on the tour so far (out of 103 previous climbs! All previous takes were on WTFr's) My first thought was, "We just might have a WTF'r here..."
Picture
Picture
Rick getting into the "hand crack" corner.
After taking, Rick came over the radio and said, "Did anyone say anything about a big fucking roof?"

I said, "Nope. Nothing." 

Rick said, "Well, there's a big fucking roof surrounded by two completely blank walls." The next thing he said was, "Fuck this. I'm down climbing then going out onto the face to scope it out. Be ready to take up slack."

Now, Rick had said the f-word multiple times. Was this a WTF'r? Clearly Rick was annoyed. But, the words weren't actually said WHILE climbing...
Rick retreated to where he could get out onto the face then angled up and right. He could see the terrain above the roof turn lower angle and into what looked like poorer quality rock (which is confirmed in a description of the adjacent climb - called Return of the Jedi, 5.9 - when someone decided to extend that climb and finish up on Deja Vu.) By that time, Rick decided he was "over it" and was lulled to the nice-looking crack leading leading up to some bolted anchors on Return of the Jedi. (That was actually a fun ending...)

This is only the third climb we haven't finished. The first "What the FAIL" was The Wonderful World of Shrimp at Cowlick Crag and that was because there was a moving block of rock with a critical hold and Rick didn't want to pull it off and crush me and Althea below. The second FAIL, was Pre Skool at the Graduate Cliff. We bailed at the 2nd pitch because it was freezing cold and I was experiencing the screaming barfies in my hands and I couldn't hold onto the rock (we are going to go back and redo Pre Skool.) This was the first time we bailed because the leader just didn't want to finish the climb.

Understandably, Rick felt frustrated and defeated. He certainly wonders if there's something he missed, or maybe he should have experimented with the moves near the roof. But then again, maybe going out onto the face lower down (where you can actually get out onto the face) IS the way to do the climb?  Who knows...

The climb actually wasn't bad up that point.

I didn't make it up to the roof either because I was following the gear Rick placed after his downclimb and traverse. From what I could see, I agree, it looked quite difficult, if not impossible. The top half of Return of the Jedi was actually pretty fun - a distinct crack in black petina - and a little spicy getting to the bolted anchor.


At the time Deja Vu seemed like a What the Fuck'r. In retrospect, we can't really say because we didn't we didn't finish the climb, we didn't actually try the roof, and although what we did climb had some spice, it wasn't that bad. So all we can really give Deja Vu is a "What the FAIL!"

CLIMB - Short Subject

Picture
CLIMB: Short Subject (Trad, 5.7) (1 pitch)(50')
WALL: School Yard
PROTECTION: Doubles up to 3"
BEGINNER LEAD: No way! 
Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK!
Short Subject is the left hand crack of adjacent "twin cracks." The right "crack," though, isn't even a crack, it's a seam and not at all useful on lead. The follower might have an easier time on the climb with the ability to be move to the right and use some of the features (that's what Rick did). But, the lead is pretty much committed to the crack, which begins as a hand crack and becomes a finger, then finger tip crack. The crack does protect well all the way up. The rock surrounding the crack is mostly featureless, sandy, and slopey.

​Although the climb is only 50 feet, it's stout (and not a 5.7.) all the way up. The top-out is also challenging, being met with a lack of holds, a fair amount of sand, large and small loose rocks, and small plants that only get in the way (and do not provide something useful to grab onto). 
Picture
The climb tops out on a ledge (that is also covered in loose rocks). Watch out for the climber below as you bring him or her up (it is not safe to lower and toprope for the second to clean, because rocks will likely rain down on the belayer.) Just to the right of where the climb tops out are two large hexes with tat for the rappel. We added a new, second layer of tat.

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: June 13, 2020
​WALLS HIT: 1
NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 2
NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 1.5
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: Rick 1, Stef several
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 150'

DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0

​TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 105
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 143

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 12,250'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 132 (out of 237)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 38,557'

​​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 
​​​​​​​​​​​3
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (we will re-do this one)
  • Rick - On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu​
START & END TIMES:
  • Arrived Parking Lot: 7 a.m.
  • Arrived: Far left end of School Yard (Deja Vu) 8:30 a.m.
  • Began: 9 a.m.
  • Hike Over to Other Climbs at School Yard: ~30-40 minutes
  • Done Climbing: 3:00 p.m.
  • Back at Car: 4:30 p.m.


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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  • Home
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    • Hiking
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  • Map Details
    • Quality
    • Map Elements
    • Methodology
    • Environment
  • About
  • Blog
    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
  • Contact
    • Feedback
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