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First Creek Canyon

WALL: First Creek Slabs
CLIMBS: Bad Moon Arising &
​Falling Stars
SUMMARY HAIKU

Post-quarantine climbs
Toproped into a cavern
Burning calves on slab!
​
Picture

Falling Stars

Picture
Rick on Falling Stars.
Length: 200 ft (really 290 ft because you have to do pitch 3 of Rising Moons to finish)
Pitches: 3 (We did it in two - Rick lead the whole 200 feet in 1 pitch, but this is not recommended. Rope drag got bad right when the climb got more challenging and less protectable.)
Type: Trad
Protection: Up to #7 (we only had a #6, which results in runout on the last pitch.)
Conclusion WTF? FAIR
​(
What the FIRST LEAD SINCE QUARANTINE!)

I think I (Stef) liked this climb better than Rick did. I thought it was pretty fun. Whew were our calves burning on the slabby stuff!


Pitch 1 - 200 ft (recommend breaking into 2 pitches)

The first 100 or so feet of this climb is quite easy (5.5ish) and nicely protectable. Work your way up the featured face until you reach a small ledge which has an anchor made with nuts and old tat. Maybe it's just best to build your own anchor in the vicinity. 

From here move over towards the pillar on the right. Protection starts getting thinner as the climbing gets more challenging and heady. Look for protection hidden on the face of the pillar. This is actually kind of cool terrain where you are using pillar features for your right hand, and sometimes your left hand, while smearing with your feet on the slabby face of the main wall.

There are three bolts (two of them are rusty) around the corner at the top of the pillar for the anchor. This is where Falling Stars joins up with Rising Moons (which is a fun climb that is rated 5.5 but it is run out on both pitches 2 and 3.)
Picture
Stef coming out from behind the pillar right before the anchors for the final pitch.


​Pitch 2 (or 3)

This ~90 foot pitch should be included in climb totals because even though the final pitch is part of another climb, you still have to climb it to get down (I would NOT recommend trying to rappel back down Falling Stars from these anchors, they are too far behind the pillar - plus you'd have to use those manky nuts for the second rap). Also, do not rappel down Rising Moons unless you have two ropes and are familiar with the terrain of that climb. It's really best to top out and use the standard rappel route.)

This pitch follows an offwidth crack, but it is face climbing that goes back and forth across the crack. It is rated 5.5 but the climbing is not necessarily a straight forward "ladder." (The first 100 feet of Falling Stars is easier than this pitch - some might rate this more like a 5.6.) Unless you have a #7, this pitch is quite run out. I had one #6 which fit in very limited spots. I also placed some "possibly un-reliable" pieces in flakes that could break in a fall. I had one really good piece in a horizontal off to the right.  In 90 feet I placed 4 pieces - only one of them I felt really good about. This is NOT a beginner lead.

At the top of this pitch is a small oak tree, a single bolt, and a crack you can use in various configurations to set up an anchor. 
Picture
The final pitch. This photo was taken when I (Stef) placed my first piece of protection - a good 25+ feet up. And you can see that the rock is far less featured than one might expect for a "5.5."


​Getting Back Down

Walk back away from the climb, following a ridge and occasional cairns. You will reach a spot with shrubs and small boulders that invite you to go up - don't do that. Instead go left towards the edge where it drops off. There is some exposure here while you take a few steps across a small ledge. Continue towards some bushes and a headwall. Follow this around until you eventually reach the edge/drop off and see bolted anchors with tat on the lower left wall (as you are facing out towards the valley.) The anchors are not visible until you reach this step-down ledge. 

Two single rope rappels get you back down. The second rappel is in a good sized tree with lots of tat. 

Bad Moon Arising
​

Picture
Length: 80 ft
Pitches:
 1
Type: Toprope (highly recommend)
Protection: Listed as R, is probably an X, so we toproped it. Large gear #4 and larger can work below, but pro stops when you enter the cavern (except for a highly questionable chockstone near the exit). 
Conclusion WTF? 
​
What the FUN-KY!


This is a fun, funky and interesting climb that takes you up into a cavern. This climb can only be found on Mountain Project and is listed as rated "R" and the comments say possibly rated "X." We would agree it's a highly consequential fall. Basically the protection stops right as you enter the cavern. At the top of the cavern, right before you exit, there is a questionable chockstone (that someone seems to have desperately slung with fishing jute?). Just keep it fun, toprope this. 

The climb is pretty easy, but gets a little challenging in the last 10-15 feet getting positioned to exit. The cavern is a little manky with (bat? bird?) urine and poop on the rock, but cool nonetheless. We wore headlamps because we didn't know what to expect, but they aren't really needed since light enters from above and below. 

At the top of the climb there is a small tree and a crack you can use to set up a toprope. The climber can rappel down, tie in, then be belayed from above. A walkie-talkie helps with the communication. 

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMBS: May 14, 2020
​
​
WALLS HIT: 1 (First Creek Slabs)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 2
NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 3 (normally 4, but Rick combined 2 pitches into 1)
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 370
 
DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0

​TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 100
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 132

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 11,280'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 136 (out of 237 - although we may redo Pre-Skool)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 39,195

​​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3

FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool
  • Rick - On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​
START & END TIMES:
  • Arrived Parking Lot: 7:30 a.m.
  • Arrived at Climbs: 8:45 a.m.
  • Began Climbing: 9 a.m.
  • Back at Car: 3:00 p.m.


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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  • Home
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  • Map Details
    • Quality
    • Map Elements
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  • About
  • Blog
    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
  • Contact
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