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Ragged Edges Area

Climbs: Dumptruck, Midnight (7+),
​& Diplomatic Immunity
Picture

Welcome Back to the Tour!

Welcome back to the WTF 5.7 tour! After a several month hiatus - first due to over flowing hospitals because of COVID (not a good time to get injured...) then because Stef injured her knee - we are now, finally, getting the tour up and going again - just in time for summer. (The temperature was 98 degrees F when we stopped to get gas at the Terrible Herbst near Red Rock.)

We did these climbs in the afternoon because the wall is (mostly) in the shade by around 3 p.m.
Picture

Dirty Undies!

Well, because of Stef's injured knee, it's been a few months since we've done the WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock. If you've been following the tour you know that we seem to run into a fair amount of dirty underwear (no it's not ours! Haha! We pack our shit out - and, we haven't had an "undies accident" yet...) It seems the universe has stored up a BUNCH of dirty undies for us on this special re-start of the tour. We encountered not, one, not two, but THREE pairs of dirty undies. Here are some photos for you to enjoy.

Two of the pairs we encountered on the trail - one was fresh as was not on the trail on the way up! One pair was a jock strap under a rock by the anchors. This is the most pairs of undies we have encountered in a single day. To commemorate this record-breaking event, we have a special video. for you.
(Click the photos to enlarge and see the caption or hover for the caption.)

The Climbs

All three of the 5.7 climbs on the Ragged Edges wall are on the left end. We present the climbs from right to left as you are facing the wall.

Setting up the Topropes

​We scoped out the first two climbs, Dumptruck and Midnight (7+) and based on both the Mountain Project comments and what we could visibly see, the climbs appeared unprotectable (and also more difficult than a 5.7), so we decided to lead Go Ahead and Jump (5.6) and then top rope them - and after climbing them we are really glad we did. At the top of the first pitch of Go Ahead and Jump ignore the tat and go out left past the bush entering onto a narrow ledge. There is a crack against the wall, set up an anchor there (using very long slings to minimize the rope sliding against the slabby rock) and belay up  your second. Use this anchor position to top rope the climb Dumptruck. Rappel down. 

After you are done with Dumptruck, continue left on the ledge. There are some bolted anchors that are about halfway down the wall ledge between Go Ahead and Jump and the third 5.7 on the wall Diplomatic Immunity. (Note that these anchors can be difficult to see.) Use the bolted anchors (with an anchor set-up, do not toprope through the rappel rings.) to toprope the climb Midnight. ​

Dumptruck (5.7X)

​Climb: Dumptruck (toprope, 60 feet)
Wall: Ragged Edges
Rope: We used a 70m
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? 
This is not a safe lead climb at all. It is rated X. It is best done as a toprope. 
Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK! (for no pro and significantly harder than a 5.7) - What the FEISTY if you do TR. 
This climb is only found in Mountain Project. It starts on top of the white boulder and goes up a seam, onto a smooth face, then into huecos at the top. There is basically little to no protection on this climb, and it is not a 5.7. You might be able to place a small piece in the few shallow holes in seam, but those are also the only spots your finger hold onto. A fall from this point would be pretty bad, either getting bounced off the boulder or getting a limb caught between the wall and the boulder. Good luck finding a piece of pro in the next 20 feet (or so) beyond the seam. Of course the fall is going to be worse. By the time you reach the huecos, where it gets easier, you might be able to find a cam or tricam placement somewhere.

The climb itself, as it is described is not 5.7. It's at least a strenuous 5.9. Stef explored climbing to the right of the seam, closer to Go Ahead and Jump, starting immediately to the right of the boulder and using the side of the boulder for feet, then up and left across the hueco face. That is much closer to a 5.7 and has potential protection - both in the start of the Go Ahead and Jump  crack and in some of the huecos. The rock is solid on this climb, and if you ignore the rating, it is entertaining. 
Picture

Midnight (5.7+) - We believe this is rated X

​Climb: Midnight (toprope, 60 feet)
Wall: Ragged Edges
Rope: We used a 70m
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? This is not a safe lead climb at all. It is rated X. It is best done as a toprope. 

Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK! (for no pro and for anyone shorter than say 5'8"... Stef is 5'5") otherwise What the Feisty! (If taller and on TR)
Mountain Project describes this climb as going up the black water streak, while the Handren guidebook drawing/topo shows it going out into the white. slopey, broken face, then over into the black water streak. Neither guide resources calls this a rated X climb (MP rates it a PG-13, Handren has no warnings). We believe it is rated X. There is no protection except for one bolt, about half way up the black water streak. The next protection (maybe?) might be in the huecos (if you can find something that works) near the top of the climb. A fall between the huecos and the bolt is a sure-fire deck - and the crux is well above the bolt.

We both went up the black streak. 

​My and Rick's experience with this climb is pretty different. This climb is extremely height dependent. Rick is 6 feet tall and could reach key holds. I am 5'5" and had to make several difficult moves to get to these decent-sized holds - especially at the start and at the crux above the bolt. One move was extremely contorted - definitely not a 5.7 move - where I had a good left hand above me, I had to heel hook my right foot onto a lip pretty high above, roll over towards the wall and grab a tiny hold with my right hand, bring my left foot up and switch my left hand to a palm/mantle matching with my left heel, bump my right hand up to a better hold, then shift my weight and lever over onto my feet. Rick caught the tail end of the move on video (too bad he didn't catch the whole thing1) I feel like the 5'5" version of this climb is a 10b/c. Rick felt like it was an 8, maybe an 8+ - haha! Quite a difference!

Either way, the climb is rated X and merits a WTF rating for that and how difficult it can be based upon size. With that said, the rock is solid and, if you ignore the 5.7 rating, it's not a terrible climb. 
Picture

Diplomatic Immunity (5.7)

​Climb: Diplomatic Immunity (Trad, 60 feet)
Pro: To 3" (it will take larger gear at the top but it's easy terrain, so some might choose to skip it. We used a #4 in the anchor, but it's not needed)
Wall: Ragged Edges
Rope: We used a 70m
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? If the climber has good upper body strength and is confident over a bulge, then yes, it's pretty straight forward and nicely protectable. 

Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
Diplomatic Immunity is rated a 5.5 in the Handren guidebook and was also rated that in Mountain Project until recently, when it was upgraded to a 5.7. The upgrade is merited for the bulgy, bouldery start (first 10-15 feel or so.) Fortunately the start is protectable. This is a fun, well-protect climb that goes up a widening crack on slopey terrain with scattered petina holds. After the start, the climb is in the 5.6 range, then finishes off quite easy, in the 5.4/5.5 range. 

Some of the guidebooks say pro to 4". You might use a 4" or 5" in the wide crack near the top, but Rick never placed any of the large gear - the terrain was easy and he ran it out to the anchor. Rick did use a #4 in the crack for the anchor, but it's not really needed. 

Bring up the second then walk over to the bolted anchors used for the other climbs described above. The ledge is fairly good-sized, but there are some bushes and a large yucca cactus that force you to walk close to the edge. If there is any discomfort, you might consider belaying over. Rappel down using the bolted anchors.
Picture

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: June 6, 2021
​WALLS HIT: 1 
NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS TODAY: 3
NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES TODAY: 3
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: Stef had several (sort-of, it was more like starting over) trying to figure out the start of Midnight.
5.7 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 190'

DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 3!! (I guess it's major dirty-underwear-catchup-time....)

TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 158

TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 206
TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 18,115'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 80 (out of 237)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 32,702'

​​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 
​​​​​​​​​​​8
FALLS SO FAR:
  • STEF: 2 (By Stef on WTF'r Tarkus Crack)
  • ​RICK: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • WT Fua: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
    • WTForget About It: Glue Gun
    • WTFun: Cialis Cleft (took to figure out the moves on start)
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r: Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (took the first time, not the second she climbed it)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack
  • Rick - Takes On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu
    • WTF'r: Tuna and Chips (he took and rested at the start of pitch 2 to recover from pitch 1 before continuing)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack​


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery

​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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  • About
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    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
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    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
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      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
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      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
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      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
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