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WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon - Jackrabbit Buttress E Face

Myster Z

SUMMARY HAIKU

What the Fabulous?
Not to Rick, who had bad gas. 
What the FLATULENCE
Picture
DATE OF CLIMB: October 26, 2019
​WALLS HIT: 1 (Jackrabbit Buttress)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS: 1 
NUMBER OF PITCHES: 7
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL 5.7 FEET CLIMBED: 1100'

TOTAL VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 5,080
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 191

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~45,182
DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3 (holding steady at three...)
START & END TIMES:
  • ARRIVED: Pine Creek parking lot at 6:30 a.m. and reached the base of the climb at 7:30.
  •  BEGAN CLIMBING: 8:00 a.m.
  • TOPPED OUT:  3:00 p.m. and walked off
  • BACK AT THE CAR: 5 p.m.


​The Route

Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Climb: Myster Z (Trad) (1100')
Wall: Jackrabbit Buttress

Conclusion WTF? What the FLATULENCE!​
Yes, you read that correctly, we rated the climb "What the Flatulence." Why? Because Rick and I couldn't agree on a rating and his excessive gas was the one commonality we could agree on - haha!

So, the rules of this game are the person who leads gets to ultimately choose the rating, but we swung leads on this climb and we had differing opinions.
  • I (Stef) LOVED Myster Z! If I could choose the rating I would have called it What the FABULOUS! What the FANTASTIC! Or even What the FAVE! Since this is one of my favorite climbs we've done so far on this tour. Why did I love it?
    • Variety - This climb had personality galore - a little bit of this and a little bit of that (face climbing, chimney, stemming, offwidth, slab, a jam here and there, a itty bitty juggy roof, an easy traverse). It was just so damn interesting!
    • Decent and beautiful rock - To get up an 1100-foot climb without having some section of it be completely sketchy rock that crumbles beneath your feet or fingers is pretty incredible. Yes, there's fragile stuff here and there, but nothing that threw me into "freakville" while leading (Rick encountered the worst of the rock on Pitch 1 while avoiding the chimney - this did not help his experience.) Plus the rock is varied and freaking gorgeous - scroll to the photos and pay attention to the differences in the rock in each photo. 
    • There is 5.7 on just about every pitch, some a little spicier than others. If you look at Handren or Mountain Project you'll see differing opinions on which pitch is the crux and which pitch is really 5.7. I felt like there were 5.7 moves on almost every pitch (and each 5.7 skill being different on each pitch). This was mixed in with lower grade material to give you some breathing room. 
    • The run-out was not as consequential (as say compared to Group Therapy). Yes, there is run out on almost every pitch, some of it quite big (30+ feet or more in spots) - we even brought our number 6 and used it frequently to reduce the runout. But, for some reason the fall zones didn't seem as dangerous (again, nothing that threw me into "freakville.")
    • For the most part, I felt like I knew where I was. With 100%-trad climbs (i.e. no bolted anchors) it's easy to get off-route or feel confused as to whether you are really on the climb (again, Group Therapy comes to mind). Although we broke up the pitches a bit differently than the book and the Mountain Project topo and there were a couple of "Huh? Are we at the right spot?" moments, overall I didn't really feel lost or confused or felt thrust into "oh God!" terrain.
  • Rick, struggled on this climb.  
    • Rick's experience with Mystery Z might have been different if his head-space wasn't off and his bowels weren't emitting toxic fumes every few minutes (which probably amplified any foggy-head issues). We all know how important the lead-head and physical well being can be to one's experience with the rock!
    • With his lead-head off, Rick felt less comfortable with the run-out than I did. 
    • He also felt challenged by the different climbing skill demands at each pitch (and Rick is a very experienced climber). For example, he confided that stemming, off-width, and chimneying aren't skills he feels he's honed and, as a result, he's not as comfortable leading them over runout (although he did a fantastic job leading the quite challenging run-out choof - chimney-roof-pitch on Group Therapy - yes, Group Therapy will be my comparison test piece for a while - haha!)
      • On a side note: There are several comments in Mountain Project about it being a good climb for a newer leader. I'm not so sure that an 1100' climb with big run out is good for any newer leader. Also, the variety of moves needed for this climb might really push a newer leader in some uncomfortable ways. 
  • Below is a blow-by-blow pitch description - Yes, pun intended, but I'll spare you from the gory details of Rick's pretty hilarious (at least to me) flatulence.


​Pitches

Picture
Rick leading pitch 1.
PITCH 1 
(~160 feet, we ended where the Handren Guide & MP Topo decribe a ledge in a chimney)


Some people talk about going up the squeeze chimney (located right below Rick in this photo), others talk about going left onto the face to avoid it.

Rick puzzled below the tiny chimney for a bit. It wasn't simple to get inside, much less be able to fit into it with a pack on. Instead, Rick went out left onto the face then worked his way back right, easily avoiding the mini-roof. 

This is one spot where the rock was a bit more fragile.
PITCH 2
(~200 feet, I kept climbing until I ran out of rope and could build an anchor, ending well into most of Handren's Pitch 3)

This pitch is one that didn't sound anything like the descriptions, so maybe I went the "wrong way." The topo says something about "stepping across to scoop and crack" and then going up a hand crack. I didn't step across anything, nor did I experience a hand crack (although I did jam my hand into crevices here and there...)

I just followed that column up (the one you see in the photo) until it lead into an offwidth-chimney-type-thing. It ate up large pro like crazy and then got too big so I ran it out until I reached the tiger striped rock. which didn't really take pro either, so I kept running it out (I think I placed one tricam in a hole in about 60 feet).

From my belay spot it was easy terrain over to the next main pitch.  ​​​
​Pitch 3
(115 ft)

Rick lead this cruiser walking pitch traverse over to Pitch 4 at the base of the next headwall. ​​​​
Pitch 4
(170 ft)


The descriptions talk about a "finger crack." When I hear the description "finger crack" I think of a splitter style crack where you dig your fingers into the rock to climb. Unless I missed it, this doesn't really fit my concept of a finger crack. The crack beneath this lip of rock was finger-sized (here and there), opening and closing to occasionally fit smaller gear. Then guess what, it gets wide again (big pro!)

At first I (Stef) questioned if I was at the correct location, but this ended at the right spot - a chimney next to a detached pillar with a block on top. 
​
Picture
Stef leading Pitch 2
Picture
Rick popping over the end of pitch 2.
Picture
Pitch 3, the cruiser traverse from the end of Pitch 2 over to Pitch 4.
Picture
Pitch 4
Pitch 5
(~120 feet?)


The stemming, small traverse, mini-roof pitch.  

Stem up this off width past the tree that is right in the middle of your path, go up to a really cool looking big roof and wave bye-bye to it, heading right until you see a crack going up a small 2-step fun juggy mini-roof. 

The descriptions say something about belaying in a horizonal. We really weren't sure what they were talking about...Rick stopped below a big offwidth - we didn't see a horizontal crack. There was also quite a bit of rope left, so maybe Rick needed to traverse more than he did?

Because this pitch ended sooner than we thought, Rick went ahead and lead the next pitch. 
​

​
Pitch 6
(~100 feet)


An offwidth crack with stemming, face climbing, and squirming. Rick stopped not far from the topout of this crack where the terrain gets low angle for a bit then starts upwards again.
Picture
Rick leading Pitch 5
Picture
Rick leading Pitch 6.
Picture
Stef leading Pitch 7.
Picture
Stef on the walk-off. Brownstone wall is the dark formation in the background.
Pitch 7
(~210 feet)


Back and forth between small sections of 5th class (like you see here) and low-angle blocky terrain. I went until I the rope stopped me, then brought Rick up. 

The terrain is 3rd class after this. Keep going until you see cairns, follow the cairns to Brownstone Wall then down Juniper Canyon for the decent. 

(NOTE: We did have more water - with electrolytes! - waiting for us down at the base of the climb!)


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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        • Amusement Park
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        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
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          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
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        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
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          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
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        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
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        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
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        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
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        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
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          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
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      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
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      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
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