Sue from Salem, OR joins me (Stef) on the WTF 5.7 tour at the Civilization Crag. Civilization is a primarily sport crag in the Calico 1 area. It has a nice variety of climbs from 5.5 to 5.11 b/c, with most of the climbs in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. There are five 5.7s - three sport and two trad. One of the trad climbs, "Mayan Pass," is found only on Mountain Project, while the rest are found both in the Handren Guidebook and Mountain Project.
Below is a run-down of the climbs, but "Meerkat Manor" (Trad) and "The Sun Never Sets" (Sport) were our two favorite 5.7 climbs at this crag. There are also many other fun, more challenging climbs here, with some variety in style depending on which side of the wall you are on. The ratings seem to be on the softer side here.
Below is a run-down of the climbs, but "Meerkat Manor" (Trad) and "The Sun Never Sets" (Sport) were our two favorite 5.7 climbs at this crag. There are also many other fun, more challenging climbs here, with some variety in style depending on which side of the wall you are on. The ratings seem to be on the softer side here.
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DATE OF CLIMB: October 27, 2019
WALLS HIT: 1 (Civilization) NUMBER OF CLIMBS: 5 NUMBER OF PITCHES: 5 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL 5.7 FEET CLIMBED: 320' TOTAL VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 5,400' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 186 VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~44,862 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3 (holding steady at three...) |
START & END TIMES:
I didn't really track - we had a full, fun, easy going day climbing the 5.7s and other climbs at the crag. |
The Routes
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Climb: Meerkat Manor (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitch - 75')
Wall: Civilization Conclusion WTF? What the FUN! This was the most challenging and most interesting climb of the bunch. It's not climbed much (because this is a sport crag), so there is some delicate rock. The crack is wide, so bring medium to larger gear. I used two #4s (one on the climb and one at the anchor) and the #5 at the anchor (I don't recall the third piece I used, I think it was a #2 BD). You will need to build an anchor at the top and bring up the second. then rappel using one of two options: (1) Use the anchor for "Conquistador," which is located down and behind you (lay on your stomach and look over the other side). This is kind of a pain to set up and rappel. (2) Do an easy traverse over to the anchors for the "East India Trading Company." |
Climb: The Mayan Pass (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitch - 70')
Wall: Civilization Conclusion WTF? What the FEATHER-BAG! Start near the base of Meerkat Manor and angle up right following the protection and preventing rope drag. Keep angling until you intercept the bolts of the neighboring climb "East India Trading Company" near a small lip. Finish the climb using the bolts and anchor of "East India Trading Company." There is some fragile rock, but the terrain is really easy. I'm not sure there is any single distinct path for this climb. |
Climb: East India Trading Company (Sport) (5.7)(1 pitch - 50')
Wall: Civilization Conclusion WTF? What the FEATHER-BAG! Basically this is the same climb as "The Mayan Pass" with a different start and bolts. It's fun and quite easy. |
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Sue leading "The Mayan Pass."
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Stef leading Meerkat Manor.
Climb: The Three Kingdoms (Sport) (5.7)(1 pitch - 70')
Wall: Civilization Conclusion WTF? What the FEATHER-BAG! Fun and easy sport climb very similar to "East India Trading Company." |
Climb: The Sun Never Sets (Sport) (5.7)(1 pitch - 55')
Wall: Civilization Conclusion WTF? What the FUN! This climb is located on a separate smaller formation behind the main Civilization Crag. From the front side (where the other 5.7 climbs are located), go around left, navigate some boulders, go under a larger boulder to find the climb. It is located on the same formation as the climbs in "the chasm" (a narrow passage way with climbs on black petina), but to the left (on the face outside of the chasm). This was a fun and interesting climb with more variety than the other 5.7 sport climbs at Civilization. The rock seems to be a little higher quality over here. 
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