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In the video I mention a link to Tony's Intentional Academy,
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Gnat Man is located above and to the right of Dickies Cliff. The typical approach is 4th class and quite exposed. There may be two alternative approaches (neither of which I have scoped out, and one of which is shown in the marked up image.)
Alternative Approach 1: Get out your rope and gear and climb the low angle crack to some bolted anchors. This may be the funnest way up. (These anchors are great to rappel from to avoid exposed down-climbing when you are done for the day.) From the anchors walk back past the boulders and then turn right towards the Gnat Man wall.
Alternative Approach 2: Follow the narrow wash past Gnat Man wall, turn left at a narrow gully and go up (this is the descent gully for the walk-off). When we did the walk off, we did not descend all the way down the gully to the wash, instead we cut across as noted in the labeled image. So, I actually don't know how that last 30 feet is to the wash. If the terrain looks good, you will reach a ledge and turn left towards Gnat Man. If the intersection with the ledge is near the same location we turned for the walk off you will encounter a small section (about two moves) of significant exposure. When we encountered the exposure, we had our harnesses on already and gear handy so we protected the moves using two pieces of gear and slings (I don't recall the exact size approximately 2" and 3").
Alternative Approach 1: Get out your rope and gear and climb the low angle crack to some bolted anchors. This may be the funnest way up. (These anchors are great to rappel from to avoid exposed down-climbing when you are done for the day.) From the anchors walk back past the boulders and then turn right towards the Gnat Man wall.
Alternative Approach 2: Follow the narrow wash past Gnat Man wall, turn left at a narrow gully and go up (this is the descent gully for the walk-off). When we did the walk off, we did not descend all the way down the gully to the wash, instead we cut across as noted in the labeled image. So, I actually don't know how that last 30 feet is to the wash. If the terrain looks good, you will reach a ledge and turn left towards Gnat Man. If the intersection with the ledge is near the same location we turned for the walk off you will encounter a small section (about two moves) of significant exposure. When we encountered the exposure, we had our harnesses on already and gear handy so we protected the moves using two pieces of gear and slings (I don't recall the exact size approximately 2" and 3").
The Routes
Bottom's Up
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Climb: Bottoms Up (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitch - 90')
Wall: Gnat Man Rope: A 60m works Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? Not really Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY! We rated Bottoms Up as "What the Feisty" particularly the way Tony did the start!
If you begin in the corner, it is featureless and not protectable for about the first 15 feet. Tony's 6-foot height helped. He was basically able to dyno to the small ledge and muscle his way up, placing his first piece in the crack. I messed around with that start for a few minutes and said, "forget it." Then, I went around to the right, ascended some slopey rock and stepped around the arete to the small ledge. If you are leading, there is still no way to protect those moves, but it is easier this way. |
I (Stef) forgot to take a photo of Tony Ferrar leading the climb... But Tony happened to have his phone with him and captured this selfie with the climb below him.
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The other "feisty" part of this climb is getting past a small bulge/section that is unprotectable (angling left to the continuation of the crack). At the top of the climb the crack forces you to do some fun layback moves (which could feel spicy to some). The rock you are holding onto for the layback is far enough away from the crack that you can crouch and reach around and under to place some gear, but it may feel awkward/spicy.
At the top of the crack exit left onto the face to clip the chains.
At the top of the crack exit left onto the face to clip the chains.
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
Climb: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitch - 120')
Wall: Gnat Man
Rope: A 60m works, it's a walk off.
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? The protection is really good on this climb. It does require some muscle in a couple of spots, especially the small roof/bulge, which can be heady. The lead also has to be comfortable with building an anchor and bringing up a second. Maybe not great for a brand new lead?
Conclusion WTF? What the FUA!
Wall: Gnat Man
Rope: A 60m works, it's a walk off.
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? The protection is really good on this climb. It does require some muscle in a couple of spots, especially the small roof/bulge, which can be heady. The lead also has to be comfortable with building an anchor and bringing up a second. Maybe not great for a brand new lead?
Conclusion WTF? What the FUA!
- What is FUA! you wonder? Here let me show you - check out the video...
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Stef leading "Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun."
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- Fua also happens to be the sound I make when I'm leading a climb that requires a little extra strength! There are a couple of muscle-y spots that brought out my "noises" - haha! After completing the climb Tony said I should rate the climb "What the FUA!" and then sent me this video!
- Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun is a fun, well protected climb that has a couple of "muscle-y" spots, including a small bulge (some refer to it as a small roof) you have to get past.
- It took some exploring for me to identify the right moves to get past the bulge/mini-roof, and I felt myself burning out a little bit. So, I asked Tony to "take" so I could rest before making the final go (now I have another "take" on my list - but this one is not a WTF'r like the others!)
- The climb gets low-angle/easy after the bulge/mini-roof.
- WALKOFF: Walkoff to the right. It's a 3rd/4th class scramble down. We did not go all the way back down to the "ground" so I can't comment on the lower portion of the scramble down to the approach gully. Instead, we cut right at a ledge to get back to the crag/base of the climb(s), since our bags/stuff was there. There was some "major damage" possibly "death" level exposure for a few steps. We just used some of the gear and slings to protect those moves (why risk it?).