Summary Haiku
One 5.7 here
Fifteen feet of finger crack
Then the climb is meh
One 5.7 here
Fifteen feet of finger crack
Then the climb is meh
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CLIMB: Diamond Dance (Trad) - 1 pitch, 25 feet
WALL: The Oasis GEAR: To 2" (offset cams and Totems are helpful) FOR A NEW TRAD LEADER? Maybe... Mostly just tricky gear placement. Conclusion WTF? What the FIDDLY! This climb is over before you know it, but the first 15-feet of crack is fun and has a little challenge to it - primarily trying to hold on while figuring out what pro will actually work in the crack - haha! Bring some small offset cams and Totems and you will be happy - otherwise place what you can and power through!
There is a bolted anchor at the top. |
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Getting Down
There are multiple ways to get down from Tuna Cookies and The Oasis.
1. Walk-off - The Tuna Cookies walk-off joins the same walk-off from The Oasis (refer to the photo at the top of this page). The walk-off is pretty straight forward by following the path of least resistance down the gully. It lets you out on the right side of Tuna and Chips wall.
2. Rappel - If you want to rappel you will only be able to do this if you do not do the second pitch of Tuna Cookies. You can rappel with two ropes from the bolted anchor, or do two rappels into and then out from The Oasis. The rappel into the Oasis is down and climber's right as you are facing the wall/anchors (just toss the rope over the edge - as long as there are no climbers coming up.) There is a second set of bolts you can use at the bottom for the next rappel down - these bolts are also anchor bolts for the belayer for the 5.8 climb called Serious Libation (DISCLAIMER: We did not rappel from these bolts and cannot provide specifics on rope length reaching the ground from here.). There is also a tree lower down with tat for a rappel.
1. Walk-off - The Tuna Cookies walk-off joins the same walk-off from The Oasis (refer to the photo at the top of this page). The walk-off is pretty straight forward by following the path of least resistance down the gully. It lets you out on the right side of Tuna and Chips wall.
2. Rappel - If you want to rappel you will only be able to do this if you do not do the second pitch of Tuna Cookies. You can rappel with two ropes from the bolted anchor, or do two rappels into and then out from The Oasis. The rappel into the Oasis is down and climber's right as you are facing the wall/anchors (just toss the rope over the edge - as long as there are no climbers coming up.) There is a second set of bolts you can use at the bottom for the next rappel down - these bolts are also anchor bolts for the belayer for the 5.8 climb called Serious Libation (DISCLAIMER: We did not rappel from these bolts and cannot provide specifics on rope length reaching the ground from here.). There is also a tree lower down with tat for a rappel.
Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: November 28, 2021
WALLS HIT: 2 NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 230' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 170 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 224 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 19,780 NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 70 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 31,247' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 8 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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