We had a double WTFuck'r Day!
START & END TIMES:
  • 5:25 a.m. - Arrived in the parking lot (... it seems our arrival keeps getting a little later...)
  • 5:45 a.m. - Arrived at Three Peaks Wall - climbed The Young and Restless (a WTF'r - described below).
  • 8:15 a.m. - Arrived at Yin and Yang Crag - Rested and snacked. One side of the wall was in the sun the other in the shade. The sunny side was already getting uncomfortable, with the black petina very warm to the touch. We decided to climb the shady side (Miniwanka - also a WTF'r!), postpone the second climb on this wall (Budda's Corner), and find another shady crag.
  • ~ 9:30 a.m. After Yin and Yang we left for Winter Heat wall which had three additional climbs. We thought Winter Heat might be shady because of its position in the Kraft Canyon. However, when we arrived we discovered only one of the climbs was partially shaded on the second pitch - basically everything was unclimbable by this point. Tired and hot from the approach, we desperately needed shade to rejuvenate, drink lots of water, and eat lunch. We found an incredible spot in the wash, where the undulating sandstone had been shaped by the water. The rock was like a lounge chair - perfect to support our backs and extend our legs. It was tempting to remain there all day, until the canyon cast more shadows than sun.
  • ~11:30 a.m. After the cool rock absorbed the heat from our bodies, our energy was renewed. We decided to return to Yin and Yang and finish our work. Even though it was hot as hell by now, the thought of having a straggler climb was more annoying than the heat. We returned to Yin and Yang and climbed Buddah's corner. You could practically small the flesh burning on the copious amounts of black petina. I'm not really sure what we were thinking.  Then we hid in the shade, drank more water, ate more food - gathering strength for the hike back in the blazing sun. 
  • 1:00 p.m. - Arrived back at the car.
DATE: July 5, 2019
​WALLS HIT: 2 (Three Peaks; Yin & Yang)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS: 3
NUMBER OF PITCHES: 3
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: Stef - well.... I took a few times on my WTFuck climb today; Rick - took none... not even on his WTFuck climb - nice job Rick!
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 125
TOTAL VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 980
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 222
VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~ 49,105
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 1
Three Peaks Cliff
CLIMB 1: The Young and Restless (Trad)
  • WTF? What the FUCK!
    • This is the first official WTF'r on the tour!
So what made The Young and Restless climb a WTF'r?
  • Requirement 1: The lead climber says "fuck," at least 1 time, out of frustration, as a result of the climb.
    • Stef counted Rick saying "fuck" at least 7 times. Part of that was from frustrations with pro - but that counts because pro (or lack of decent places to put it) is part of the climb.
    • The climb is a strong WTF'r if the person who seconds also says "fuck" and/or agrees the climb is a WTF'r. Stef said fuck once and definitely agrees this climb is a full-on WTF'r!
  • Requirement 2: The climb side-swipes you. Sideswipes vary with climbs, it could be from one major move or a series of things that add up. But you know it when you experience it.
    • The sideswipes on this climb include:
      • Lots of really bad crumbly untrustable rock. You simply cannot grab what you want to.
      • Some questionable or challenging-to-place protection.
      • It really goes blank with some "whoa!" moves in the last 1/3.
      • Really shallow (teaser) finger pockets with sand in a desperate spot.
Picture
Climb-On Map excerpts are included for walls/crags that contain WTFuck climbs [you know, just in case you want to experience a WTF'r :-)]. Please keep in mind this map is copyrighted and may not be reproduced and/or distributed without permission from Climb-On Maps. Thank you!
Yin & Yang Crag
CLIMB 1: Miniwanka
  • WTF? What the FUCK! Sort of... Stef's vote is WTF; Rick's not convinced)
    • This is the second WTF'r on the tour!

So what made The Young and Restless climb a WTF'r?
  • Requirement 1: The lead climber says "fuck," at least 1 time, out of frustration, as a result of the climb.
    • Stef lead the climb and said "fuck" three times.
  • Requirement 2: The climb side-swipes you.
    • People commented about a hard start - the first half of the climb is a "hard start." Yes, the rest is super cruiser.
    • The features on the face suck you in, making you think it's easy, but they aren't there when it counts. Odd positions are needed while trying to put in protection in a wonky crack that opens wide in the back (like your cam will walk and fall into a pit) or is constricted in the front then flares, or is too shallow.
    • Maybe I just burned too much mental and muscle time on the gear placements. But, I needed to take... if I'm cussing AND I have to take on a 5.7, to me it's a WTF'r.
    • Rick agreed the start was challenging, but cruised up it as a second... He's not convinced its a WTF'r.
Picture
Climb-On Map excerpts are included for walls/crags that contain WTFuck climbs [you know, just in case you want to experience a WTF'r :-)]. Please keep in mind this map is copyrighted and may not be reproduced and/or distributed without permission from Climb-On Maps. Thank you!
CLIMB 2: Budda's Corner
(listed in the Handren guide as a 5.7+. This climb is NOT a +, it is cruiser, fun, and easy. I think that + was meant for Miniwanka!)
  • CONCLUSION: WTF? What the FUN!
    • From the ground this climb does not look protectable. But it is! There are quite a few hidden crevices.
    • The climb is featured, fun, and easy (about as easy as the sport climbs we did on Day 1 at the Cut Your Teeth Crag).
    • I will re-emphasize the + rating given in the Handren guide must be an error. There is nothing "plus" about this climb.


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

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​​First Creek Canyon
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​Day 77: School Yard 2
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Icebox Canyon (DONE)
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Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z
Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Kraft Area
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Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)
Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
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Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland
Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully ​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
Red Springs (DONE)
Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame
Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger
​Willow Springs
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool ​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75 N-Plus Ultra Part 1
​Day 76 N-Plus Ultra Part 2
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