The N'Plus Ultra wall has five 5.7 climbs - two of which we did on this day.:
And two on a previous day:
Still left to do on this wall:
- Pillar Talk (2 pitches - 180')
- Chocolate Tranquility Fountain (located on the 2nd tear)
And two on a previous day:
- Lucky Charms (80 ft)
- Geezer Face (80 ft)
Still left to do on this wall:
- Cereal Killer (180 ft)
Pillar Talk
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Climb: Pillar Talk (trad, 180' feet)
Wall: N'Plus Ultra Area Rope Used: 60m twins (a minimum of a 70m is needed for the rappel) Gear: Descriptions say pro to 5" but the largest size we placed was a 4. Usually I go one size larger than what pro descriptions say and many times I end up using that larger piece - not here. Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? No Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK! (But a Good One) Pillar Talk is a two-pitch Joe Herbst climb that, if you stay in the crack, will make you work for the send. This is a good climb with challenging and interesting moves, but is rated a WTF'r because it can be a rude awakening for anyone who thinks it's a 5.7 cruiser.
Pitch 1 goes up a wide crack past a couple of wonky bulges (the two cruxes) then traverses beneath a roof. The bolted belay station is just above the roof. Some people go out onto the featured left face, which is considerably easier but offers no protection and has some frail aspects. Pitch 2 is the easy part of the climb. Some descriptions say there is bad rock and bad runout, but we found neither to be really true. The run out is maybe PG-13. The second half is slopey slab with some knobs near the end. Build an anchor at the top. Getting Down: Break down the anchor and scramble climber's right to a tat-strung tree between above the climb Sleeper. You will need at least a 70m rope to get down. |
Rick leading pitch 1 Pillar Talk just past the second crux. The second pitch is not visible. (Photo by Barbara Luke)
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Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
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Climb: Chocolate Tranquility Fountain (trad, 90' feet)
Wall: N'Plus Ultra Area Rope Used: 60m twins (a minimum of a 70m is needed for the rappel) Gear: To 3" and smalls. Rick used a #4 in the anchor, thought not required. It just depends on how much gear is left from doing the route. Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? Could be - there are a couple of short, spicy moves, protects well though Conclusion WTF? What the FABULOUS! Ohh lala! Choclate-y sweetness is here. This is an amazing climb. The dark petina wall has some nice friction (it's not slick like some patina can be) and tons of huecos. Go up a finger-sized crack to the top where you will build an anchor. Rick used a #4 in the anchor, although it's not required. It just depends on how much of the other gear in the right size you have left from the climb.
Getting Down: Exit climber's left for an easy scramble down to the large ledge where the climb begins. Find the rappel tree located just beyond Pillar Talk above the climb Sleeper. |
Rick leading Chocolate Tranquility Fountain (Photo by Barbara Luke)
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Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: September 18, 2021
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES TODAY: 3 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: Several 5.7 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 270' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 164 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 212 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 18,745' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 74 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 32,152' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 8 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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