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    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • WTF 5.7 Climbs
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
          • Day 94: Romanian Rib Right
          • Day 95: Romanian Rib Left
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Day 88: Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6 (and 90): Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
        • Day 92: Beulah's Arete
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: In Through the Out Door (Ridinghood Wall)
        • Day 91: Guys and Ghouls
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs >
        • Angel Food Wall >
          • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
        • Seraphim Wall >
          • Day 91: Ride the Wind
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
        • Day 94: Double Pin-etration N'Plus Ultra
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear

​N'Plus Ultra Area
​Part 2

5.7 Climbs Done Today:
Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
Picture
The N'Plus Ultra wall has five 5.7 climbs - two of which we did on this day.:

  • Pillar Talk (2 pitches - 180')
  • Chocolate Tranquility Fountain (located on the 2nd tear)

And two on a previous day:
  • Lucky Charms (80 ft)
  • Geezer Face (80 ft)

​Still left to do on this wall:
  • Cereal Killer (180 ft)

Pillar Talk

​Climb: Pillar Talk (trad, 180' feet)
Wall: N'Plus Ultra Area
Rope Used: 60m twins (a minimum of a 70m is needed for the rappel)
Gear: Descriptions say pro to 5" but the largest size we placed was a 4. Usually I go one size larger than what pro descriptions say and many times I end up using that larger piece - not here. 
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber?
No

Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK! (But a Good One)
Pillar Talk is a two-pitch Joe Herbst climb that, if you stay in the crack, will make you work for the send. This is a good climb with challenging and interesting moves, but is rated a WTF'r because it can be a rude awakening for anyone who thinks it's a 5.7 cruiser.

Pitch 1 goes up a wide crack past a couple of wonky bulges (the two cruxes) then traverses beneath a roof. The bolted belay station is just above the roof. Some people go out onto the featured left face, which is considerably easier but offers no protection and has some frail aspects. 

Pitch 2 is the easy part of the climb. Some descriptions say there is bad rock and bad runout, but we found neither to be really true. The run out is maybe PG-13. The second half is slopey slab with some knobs near the end. Build an anchor at the top.

Getting Down: Break down the anchor and scramble climber's right to a tat-strung tree between above the climb Sleeper. You will need at least a 70m rope to get down. 
Picture
Rick leading pitch 1 Pillar Talk just past the second crux. The second pitch is not visible. (Photo by Barbara Luke)

Chocolate Tranquility Fountain

​Climb: Chocolate Tranquility Fountain (trad, 90' feet)
Wall: N'Plus Ultra Area
Rope Used: 60m twins (a minimum of a 70m is needed for the rappel)
Gear: To 3" and smalls. Rick used a #4 in the anchor, thought not required. It just depends on how much gear is left from doing the route. 
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber?
Could be - there are a couple of short, spicy moves, protects well though

Conclusion WTF? What the FABULOUS!
Ohh lala! Choclate-y sweetness is here. This is an amazing climb. The dark petina wall has some nice friction (it's not slick like some patina can be) and tons of huecos. Go up a finger-sized crack to the top where you will build an anchor. Rick used a #4 in the anchor, although it's not required. It just depends on how much of the other gear in the right size you have left from the climb. 

Getting Down: Exit climber's left for an easy scramble down to the large ledge where the climb begins. Find the rappel tree located just beyond Pillar Talk above the climb Sleeper.
Picture
Rick leading Chocolate Tranquility Fountain (Photo by Barbara Luke)

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: September 18, 2021
​WALLS HIT: 1 
NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS TODAY: 2
NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES TODAY: 3
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: Several
5.7 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 270'

DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0

TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 164

TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 212
TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 18,745'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 74 (out of 237)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 32,152'

​​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 
​​​​​​​​​​​8
FALLS SO FAR:
  • STEF: 2 (By Stef on WTF'r Tarkus Crack)
  • ​RICK: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • WT Fua: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
    • WTForget About It: Glue Gun
    • WTFun: Cialis Cleft (took to figure out the moves on start)
    • WTF'r: Guys and Ghouls
    • Takes As a second:
    • WTF'r: Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (took the first time, not the second she climbed it)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack
  • Rick - Takes On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu
    • WTF'r: Tuna and Chips (he took and rested at the start of pitch 2 to recover from pitch 1 before continuing)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack​
    • WTF'r: Peaches
    • WTF'r: Pillar Talk


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Day 92: Beulah's Arete

Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
Red Springs (DONE)
Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
Day 91: Guys and Ghouls

 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger
Day 90: Ride the Wind (Seraphim Wall)

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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WTF 5.7 Tour
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  • Home
  • Blog
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • WTF 5.7 Climbs
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
          • Day 94: Romanian Rib Right
          • Day 95: Romanian Rib Left
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Day 88: Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6 (and 90): Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
        • Day 92: Beulah's Arete
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: In Through the Out Door (Ridinghood Wall)
        • Day 91: Guys and Ghouls
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs >
        • Angel Food Wall >
          • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
        • Seraphim Wall >
          • Day 91: Ride the Wind
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
        • Day 94: Double Pin-etration N'Plus Ultra
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear