Peaches
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Climb: Peaches (lead, 130 feet)
Wall: Children's Wall Rope: We used a 70m, although you might consider an 80m or twins if you plan to rappel instead of doing the walk-off. Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? NO! Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK! Peaches is a Joe Herbst old school climb rated 5.8 in the Handren guidebook, but, for whatever reason, it's listed as a 5.7 in Mountain Project. This may be because there are several variations of the climb, including a 5.5 variation? Anyway, it's listed as a 5.7 somewhere, so it's on the tour!
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Click on photos to enlarge
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This is a neat and very interesting climb, but it is extremely heady and committing at the crux (at the roof). We have no idea if the climb is actually supposed to go up into the chimney where the roof starts, but getting into that chimney is no small feat. There isn't chalk that we saw up in the chimney, which leads us to believe the climb does a layback across and to the end of the roof (there are hand prints across the roof base to support this speculation).
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Rick lead this climb and had no idea on the beta, and when you get up there it's not immediately clear. He made several attempts to get into the chimney and started going out across the roof, as well, but then backed off.
The pro is such that, if you fall, it will be a huge swing, possibly into the sidewall. Not pretty. Although still a swing if he fell, Rick ultimately cut across an easier section of the face to access the end of the 5.5. flake, where he could then place protection and proceed up (see topo image above). Stef, who was following, did the layback moves across the roof. It was extremely committing, especially the awkward, balancy transition from layback into slab climbing. This part of the climb is not for the faint of heart. Doing the original climb across the length of the roof, is in the "What the FUCK!" territory. We'd actually like to try the 5.9 variation and see how it compares - at least it looks protectable. |
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22 Minutes to Closing
Climb: 22 Minutes Til Closing
Wall: Children's
Conclusion WTF? What the FORGET ABOUT IT
Wall: Children's
Conclusion WTF? What the FORGET ABOUT IT
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This climb is adjacent to some Native American pictographs and is behind a fence to show that it is off-access. Thus, we did not climb 22 Minutes to Closing. Please respect the irreplaceable history and forget about doing this climb. There are thousands more climbs in Red Rock and in this immediate vicinity. Thank you!
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Click on photos to enlarge and see captions
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Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: June 11, 2021
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS TODAY: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES TODAY: 1 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: Rick on lead - several 5.7 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 130' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 159 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 207 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 18,315' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 79 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 32,582' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 8 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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