SUMMARY HAIKU
Four 5.7s here
Depending on which guide used
there's a sandbagged 6
Four 5.7s here
Depending on which guide used
there's a sandbagged 6
Refreshe
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Climb: Refreshe (Trad but probably best as a TR) (5.7)(1 pitch ~40')
Wall: Chocolate Rocks Beginner Lead? No Conclusion WTF? What the FREAKY! This climb starts on the face and trends left towards the arete, hitting a "crack" that is not a crack in which you can place pro. Refreshe is on slick rock that leans left and feels like it's going to spit you off. Protection is thin and minimal, especially down low for the first half of the climb. It's probably best toproped off the bolted anchors at the top - then it is fun (and you can TR various spots on the face, including Shortcake which is a fun 5.9.) The best way to access the anchors to set up a TR is via Minute Maid - a large 5.6 offwidth. If you climb Minute Maid to set up the TR, do not go all the way to the big pine tree. Instead cut off left to the ledge and walk to the bolted anchors.
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Bryan Sillorequez belays Jason Glasgow on Refreshe.
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The Little Engine (That Could)
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Climb: The Little Engine (That Could) (Trad) (5.6 in Handren, 5.7+ in Mountain Project)(1 pitch ~60')
Wall: Chocolate Rocks Beginner Lead? No Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY! This is a Joe Herbst climb that I'd call a WTFr as a 5.6, but feel it's fair as a 5.7+. This climb is strenuous all the way up. You can bypass the first part of the offwidth with some big steps and move to get to the top of the pillar where I'm standing in this photo, but after that you are committed to the big crack (unless you are taller like Rick and can reach some face holds here and there.)
Getting into the offwidth initially felt like it wasn't going to stick - like you were going to be spit out - but surprisingly the wedge ended up feeling secure. Then the climb moves into a chimney that can only be protected by threading a large sling around a chockstone boulder. Surmount the boulder to finish. Getting Down
To get down, scramble to the left either to the tat-strung boulder above McCracken or the large pine tree above Minute Maid (5.6) above Refreshe. The first drop will take you to the top of the "chimney" above McCracken - which is difficult to see unless you stick your head around the boulders at the top of the chimney. From here you can see the tat-strung boulder but cannot access it. (BTW we scoped out this "chimney" and it does not look worth doing.) To get to the tat-strung boulder or the pine tree from here go around to the right of the cliff, looking for the safest 4th-class down-climb. There is a way to do it that has minimal exposure and good-sized holds. If going to the tat-boulder above McCracken, there is one "major-damage" level exposed spot to get left around the wall, but the moves are pretty secure feeling when sitting on your ass. Otherwise scramble down to a boulder-filled gully and right over to the pine tree.
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Stef on the Little Engine (That Could). It turns into an offwidth, then a chimney from this point.
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McCracken
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Climb: McCracken (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitch ~60')
Wall: Chocolate Rocks Beginner Lead? No Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY! A scrappy, fun, well-protected but feisty climb that demands your attention, muscles, and a variety of moves from your tool box.
Near the top there are a couple of options for pro and direction. Option 1 is right, under the small roof then left across the face to the anchor (the way Stef went) and option 2 is straight up the face (there is also vertical crack where you can place gear), which is the way Rick went. There is a tat-wrapped boulder at the top of this climb, which you can rappel to get down. The tat is starting to look old and could use removal and replacement in the near future. But, since it's a large boulder, it will need quite a bit of tat. |
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Rick in his knee-bar on McCracken. Rick started off left and Stef went right into the crack and held onto the flake (where Rick's knees are) with her left hand.
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Handren and MP say you can continue this climb up a "chimney." We scoped it out and it didn't look very appealing. There is an avalanche of rocks inside.
Potso's Pudding
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Climb: Potso's Pudding (Trad) (5.6 in Handren, 5.7 in MP)(1 pitch ~90')
Wall: Chocolate Rocks Beginner Lead? Yes, if you start in the corner then move left out onto the arete and fin. You can reach over into the corner crack to place pro if there is nothing closer. Conclusion WTF? What the FUN! This climb was closer to a 5.6 if you stay out of the corner. It's a pretty straight forward climb with good protection. There are three cams stuck within two feet of each other!
Belay from above. When finished, step over to the boulder above McCraken to rappel down. |
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Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: 11/27/20 & 12/06/20
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS HERE: 4 NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES COMPLETED: 4 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL 5.7 FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 250 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 |
TOTAL 5.7 CLIMBS SO FAR: 154
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 202 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 17,965 NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING (out of 237): 88 VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 32,782 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 5 |
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TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
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TAKES, CONT'D
FALLS SO FAR:
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