Summary Haiku
What the Fuck Frodo?
Tuna and Chips is an X!
Glad no rocks popped off
What the Fuck Frodo?
Tuna and Chips is an X!
Glad no rocks popped off
Tuna and Chips
Climb: Tuna and Chips (Trad/Mixed) (5.7R - we believe its an X)(2 pitches - or one long pitch - 200')
Wall: Tuna and Chips
Beginner's Lead? Hell No!
Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK FRODO!
Wall: Tuna and Chips
Beginner's Lead? Hell No!
Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK FRODO!
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A friend of ours, Jimmy Lybarger, whose nickname is Frodo, is one of the first ascentionists (1986) on this route. Although the climb itself is a good one (let me correct that, it would be a good one with more and better bolts), we are calling this a "What the Fucker" because we feel kinda fucked by it.
The climb is listed as rated R, so we thought there would be some spots for additional protection between the three bolts. Although you can put an RP (see photo) in before the first bolt - (the first bolt is at about 40 feet!), good luck finding that tiny slot. Plus there is no protection options between the bolts on pitch 1 (well you can sling a chicken head not too far above the second bolt, I guess that helps a little...) We believe this climb is rated X, not a rated R. This is also not a jug haul. It is vertical, with pretty small holds on much of the first pitch. The crux is right before the first bolt - not exactly when you want to fall. It's mostly good rock, but there are some hollow chunks between bolt 3 and the anchor. The second pitch is easy and fun and real trad, where you actually get to place some gear. There are some bolted anchors at the top of pitch 2 as well, so you can rappel the route with a 70m rope. Rick strung both pitches together with a 70m rope. Because the route is mostly vertical, the rope drag wasn't too bad. |
Rick leading Tuna and Chips just above his tiny RP placement at about 20 feet up (the first bolt is 40 feet). There really is no protection other than the bolts on all of pitch 1 (you can sling a horn a few feet above bolt 3...)
Here is that RP/brassy placement - it's the third smallest (red) DMM makes - very small!
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No Hay Sequia
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Climb: No Hay Sequia (Sport) (5.7+)(85')
Wall: Tuna and Chips Beginner's Lead? For a confident climber might be ok. Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY! This is a well bolted climb with a high first bolt that you might want to stick clip because the main crux is the first 15 feet. There is a small second crux over a bulge near the top, which is well-protected. The rock is nice quality, and the climb a good one, just a bit spicy.
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Stef leading No Hay Sequia.
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Dolphin Safe
Climb: Dolphin Safe (Trad/Mixed - it's listed as sport in some guide resources, but it's safest if you place a couple pieces of protection before the first bolt, which is at 30 ft. ) (5.7R)(110')
Wall: Tuna and Chips
Beginner's Lead? No Way!
Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
Wall: Tuna and Chips
Beginner's Lead? No Way!
Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
There are 5 bolts in this 110 foot climb ending at a bolted anchor. The first bolt is at about 30 feet and there's about 15-20 feet between the rest of the bolts. Like Tuna and Chips next door, the crux is right before the first bolt, so it's highly recommended to place a cam (~1-2') in the crack to the lower left before it gets really vertical before the bolt. You can also place a small cam in a crack to climber's left lower down, about 15 feet off the ground.
This is not a jug-fest gimmie climb. You are working with smaller features and are weaving left and right between the bolts to find the moves. It takes some time and attention to find where you want to go, especially since it could result in a 30-40 ft fall. The climb itself is nice, but the runout adds stress for sure.
Like we mentioned in the video, this is NOT the wall to practice runout lead head. Go to Ultraman first, and if that's too much, forget about this wall (except for No Hay Sequia, which is nicely bolted).
Bring a 70m rope.
This is not a jug-fest gimmie climb. You are working with smaller features and are weaving left and right between the bolts to find the moves. It takes some time and attention to find where you want to go, especially since it could result in a 30-40 ft fall. The climb itself is nice, but the runout adds stress for sure.
Like we mentioned in the video, this is NOT the wall to practice runout lead head. Go to Ultraman first, and if that's too much, forget about this wall (except for No Hay Sequia, which is nicely bolted).
Bring a 70m rope.
Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: July 24, 2020
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 3 NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 3 (4 but 2 were strung together) NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 395 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 START & END TIMES:
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TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 120
(We passed the halfway point in terms of number of climbs! Yeah!) TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 162 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 14,330' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 118 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 36,417' FALLS SO FAR: 0 TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
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