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        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
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        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
          • Day 94: Romanian Rib Right
          • Day 95: Romanian Rib Left
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Day 88: Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6 (and 90): Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
        • Day 92: Beulah's Arete
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: In Through the Out Door (Ridinghood Wall)
        • Day 91: Guys and Ghouls
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
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        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
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          • Day 11: Group Therapy
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        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
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          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
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        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
        • Day 94: Double Pin-etration N'Plus Ultra
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Stick Gully

CLIMB: Box of Rain
SUMMARY HAIKU

Which way do we go?
Are we on the right climb here?
​Ha! That's no walk-off!
Picture


Box of Rain

Climb: Box of Rain (Trad, 200 feet)
Area
: Stick Gully
Rope & Gear: We used a 70m, We used both a #5 and #6 and some smalls (and yeah, stuff in between... It takes a big range of pro)
Good Lead for a New Trad Climber? No. 
Do you like offwidth? Pitch 1 is pretty spicy. Pitch 2 is a bit squeezy.  Route finding can be a bit confusing - although everything probably ends up in similar spots. 
Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
We THINK we got on the correct climb, but we aren't real sure... 

This is a Mountain Project-only climb (i.e. not in Handren) and it has a very, very blurry photo taken from about 800 miles away. There is a written description of the climb, but it seemed to fit two spots. There was mention of going up a slab, to a jumbled mess of corners, to an offwidth, to a chockstone, then to more offwidth, then taking a crack that goes off to the right. We couldn't tell from the description what was where and how far up.

The left crack (labeled in pink in the photo above) has a slab going to an offwidth, and there is a good sized chockstone at the top of the offwidth. Plus, it's pretty jumbly... but Rick quickly got deterred on the slick, lichen-covered slab.

The path we ultimately chose to the right wasn't all that slabby, but there's definitely a jumbled mess of corners, and an offwidth, but no chockstone - but there was a good sized boulder capping the offwidth. Is that what is being called a chockstone? I have no idea! So... we either did Box of Rain or we didn't and we did some first ascent, which we could call another Grateful Dead tune ("Althea," after our dog, maybe? Or "Touch of Grey" for the grey-colored rock? But we'll just say we did Box of Rain!)

Did we like it? Actually yes, we did. Admittedly we were pretty worried about it before hand because it is so obscure, there is very little information, and there are zero ticks and comments. Whatever it was we did ended up being a diverse, feisty, interesting climb that we enjoyed (of course you have to be tolerant of off width for this one...)
Pitch 1
Spicier than it looks from the ground! The first section requires some searching for pro. Then you get to where Rick is in this photo and it gets feisty here! 

Rick stayed left, using the face and the crack. I (Stef) went that way, cleaned the gear, tried to go up the way Rick did and couldn't reach crap. So, I retreated and did battle with the bush. That was spicy too!

The ramp leading up to the offwidth (where Rick has his hand) was narrow and sloping in a way where it's quite difficult to move without getting spit off.

At the top of the offwidth, climb over a boulder then walk back about 40 feet to another offwidth crack. 
Picture
Pitch 2
Well this photo almost says it all. As you can see there is an offwidth (and there is more offwidth above - that is where I used the #6, I used the #5 in the crack in the photo.)

​Rick said he turned around and faced the other direction and, based on the slow progress and grunting sounds I made, he thought it was easier to face the other way - haha!

The climb description says to go right somewhere, but there were a couple of options to go right. Assuming that I am even on the correct climb, I opted to not follow the directions. The first right would have been awkward for me to get into given the way I was facing. The second right looked like it got into a jumbled mess of boulders and the climbing ended quickly. I wanted to keep climbing and straight up looked like it lasted a bit longer. Since I wasn't even close to 100% sure I was on the correct climb, I figured the directions didn't matter much at this point - haha!

The path I went was entertaining, with another offwidth near the top. But, there was a wobbly boulder that I didn't want to risk knocking down onto Rick, so some challenge was added to avoid that boulder completely. 

I topped out onto a slab of rock for comfortable belaying. 
Picture


​The Descent

The descent descriptions mentions walking off left into the gully. We scoped it out and it's not a walk-off, it's a tricky, exposed, down-climb. The bushes are too small to rappel from, so we left some nuts and tat and did a short rappel (climber's left) down into the gully. Now there's an anchor for you! But bring spare tat in case ours disappears or becomes faded in the UV. 

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: October 11, 2020
​WALLS HIT: 1
NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS TODAY: 1
NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES TODAY: 2
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
5.7 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 200'

DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0

​TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 140

TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 185
TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 16,035' 
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 98 (out of 237)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 34,632'

​​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 
​​​​​​​​​​​5
FALLS SO FAR:
  • STEF: 2 (By Stef on WTF'r Tarkus Crack)
  • ​RICK: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • WT Fua: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
    • WTForget About It: Glue Gun
    • WTFun: Cialis Cleft (took to figure out the moves on start)
    • WTF'r: Guys and Ghouls
    • Takes As a second:
    • WTF'r: Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (took the first time, not the second she climbed it)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack
  • Rick - Takes On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu
    • WTF'r: Tuna and Chips (he took and rested at the start of pitch 2 to recover from pitch 1 before continuing)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack​


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  • Home
  • Blog
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • WTF 5.7 Climbs
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
          • Day 94: Romanian Rib Right
          • Day 95: Romanian Rib Left
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Day 88: Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6 (and 90): Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
        • Day 92: Beulah's Arete
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: In Through the Out Door (Ridinghood Wall)
        • Day 91: Guys and Ghouls
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs >
        • Angel Food Wall >
          • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
        • Seraphim Wall >
          • Day 91: Ride the Wind
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
        • Day 94: Double Pin-etration N'Plus Ultra
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear