Excerpt of the Climb-On Map for Red Rock Canyon showing the location of the new crag CarlyQuinn.
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The two 5.7s at CarlyQuinn Crag - except Miss Carly Quinn was changed to a 5.9...
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CLIMB: Miss Carly Quinn (Sport) - 1 pitch, 65 feet
This was initially a 5.7 when we climbed it. It has since been changed to a 5.9 WALL: CarlyQuinn FOR A NEW LEADER? It's mostly a 5.5 until the roof, which is easy to go up if you go left. The roof may be uncomfortable for a new leader, but it is protected and a good first roof. Conclusion WTF? What the FAIR Mostly low angle 5.5 climbing until you reach the roof. The roof is harder if you try to go straight up. It's more "stair-step" if you go left.
This climb was originally rated a 5.7 when we did it, and we didn't think that was too bad of a rating, especially if you go left on the roof. We are not sure if it merits the 5.9 rating, but it makes sense. It's a so-so climb. Fine to do since it is there. The roof adds interest. |
The roof of Miss Carly Quinn.
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CLIMB: Lunch With Leslie (Sport) - 1 pitch, 65 feet
WALL: CarlyQuinn
FOR A NEW LEADER? No. The start is bulgy, difficult, and intimidating. You will want to stick clip the second bolt, the first bolt doesn't really help the climber.
Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK!
WALL: CarlyQuinn
FOR A NEW LEADER? No. The start is bulgy, difficult, and intimidating. You will want to stick clip the second bolt, the first bolt doesn't really help the climber.
Conclusion WTF? What the FUCK!
Rick lead this climb and is calling it a "What the FUCK!" Although no fucks were said, this is a misleading grade for a standard Red Rock sport climb - and one that is promoted as beginner friendly. We stick clipped the second bolt and used the first bolt for the belayer (should the belayer want it) because there is a drop-off behind. The third bolt is committing to get to and favors the tall.
The developers of this new crag describe it as being set up "with new leaders in mind." There may be some truth to that for some of the other climbs, but not this one - which is one of the lower grades on the wall.
With that said, it is actually an interesting climb, with a bulgy, crimpy start, that moves up a low-angled seam, then up a a final vertical section that requires a little thinking (and yes, there is still some crispy rock - which will likely make this a harder climb even later...).
You can see the photos of Rick below moving into the crispy/bulgy section of the climb then moving above the third bolt in photo 2.
The developers of this new crag describe it as being set up "with new leaders in mind." There may be some truth to that for some of the other climbs, but not this one - which is one of the lower grades on the wall.
With that said, it is actually an interesting climb, with a bulgy, crimpy start, that moves up a low-angled seam, then up a a final vertical section that requires a little thinking (and yes, there is still some crispy rock - which will likely make this a harder climb even later...).
You can see the photos of Rick below moving into the crispy/bulgy section of the climb then moving above the third bolt in photo 2.
Rick entering the crux of the climb. We stick clipped the second bolt and used the first bolt with an alpine draw to protect the belayer (if the belayer felt uncomfortable with the drop off behind them).
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Rick moving past the crux through the third bolt. This one is tricky and committing to clip.
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Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: December 4, 2021
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES TODAY: 2 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 130' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 172 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 226 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 19,910 NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 66 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 31,117' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 8 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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