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        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
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          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
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          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
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          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
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          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
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          • Day 16: Myster Z
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          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
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        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
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        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
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        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
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        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
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        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
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        • Day 55: Coco Crag
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WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon

AREA: Mt. Wilson, Lower E Side
CLIMB: Limon
SUMMARY HAIKU

Ass-kicking approach
Did battle with oak tree anchor
What the FREAKING FAR!
Picture
Mt. Wilson


​The Approach


Mt. Wilson is a prominent fixture on the skyline of Red Rock Canyon because it is large and in the foreground. One might (logically) think that accessing climbs on Mt. Wilson would be shorter than having to go back into the canyons, but the reality is, accessing climbs on Mt. Wilson is a bitch. Not only is it a long walk from the road to the mountain, once you reach the base of the mountain it is maze-like, steep, loose, thorny, ass-kicking terrain - all with 40-50 lbs of gear and water on your back. 

As far as Mt. Wilson approaches go, getting to Limon and the climbs on the "lower E side" of Mt. Wilson is comparatively "easy" and it still took us three strenuous hours to get there (with a few stops to take photos and to eat a snack, plus some route finding, since we've never been to this climb.) The return went a little quicker - about 2.25 hours - but I (Stef) slipped and fell on my ass twice on the steep, loose terrain - even with moving slowly and deliberately. 

If you feel compelled to go to this area, either to climb Limon or some of the other moderate climbs on the "Lower East Side," such as Lincoln Tunnel, Movin' On Up, or Sal (Sal is immediately to the left of Limon), below are some detailed approach photos and beta to help you. (Although we mapped nearly everything in Red Rock, this is one area that's not on our currently published map. We collected the data on this trip and will be adding it on the next printing. But for now, these photos should be helpful to you!)
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The Climb 
​


​Climb: Limon (Trad) (5.7)(1 pitches - 75')
Wall: Mt. Wilson - Lower East Side
Pro: doubles to #3 + small nuts for lower down
Beginner Climb? No

Conclusion WTF? What the FREAKING FAR!

  • From the ground you look up at Limon and think "oh yeah, super featured, that looks easy." Well, it's not quite as easy as it looks from the ground. It has a few spots that present a little challenge (this is due, in part, to not fully trusting some of the rock, plus a couple awkward body positions and dealing with a bulge). All in all this climb is OK (it was given 2 stars in Mountain Project, and I think that's a fair rating), but I would not really recommend it for a new trad climber.
Picture
  • The first ~20 feet is not really protectable. You can place some small nuts in the crack to the right (like I did in the photo) then traverse left back to the main line (if you stick only to the main crack you can place a cam low to prevent a long tumble down the rest of the cliff below but it won't protect from a ground fall). Unless you place a nut to the right, there is nothing until you get near the big chicken head (I'm next to it in the photo), which is not sling-able, but there is a crack just above it.
  • The Mountain Project description says pro to 2 inches. If you've been reading this blog, you know I always bring one size larger and 95% of the time I am glad I did. This was no exception, I used both of my #3s. 
  • At the top of the climb is a slung oak tree that you have to do some battle with over some slabby terrain to access the anchor. The anchor had a single cord with a locking carabiner. Although the cord looked ok, it was over a year old (the MP write up said the chord was put there in April 2019) and a single failure point, so we did some real battle accessing the base of the oak tree - drawing blood - our blood, not the tree's - and backed up the anchor with some webbing.
  • This anchor is the same one for the 5.8 crack immediately to the left. 

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMBS: May 17, 2020
​
​
WALLS HIT: 1 (Mt. Wilson Lower E)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 1
NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 1 
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 75
 
DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0

​​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3

TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 102
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 137

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 11,435'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 135 (out of 237 - although we may redo Pre-Skool)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 39,122
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool
  • Rick - Takes On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​
START & END TIMES:
  • Arrived Parking Lot: 8:45 a.m.
  • Arrived at Climb: 11:45 a.m.
  • Began Climbing: 12:00 p.m.
  • Finished Climbing: 1:45 p.m. (We decided to back up the anchor, which was a royal pain - literally and figuratively)
  • Back at Car: 4:15 p.m.


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)

​
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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      • General >
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        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
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          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
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      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
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