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        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
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          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
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          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
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        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
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        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
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        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
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        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
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        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
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Pine Creek Canyon

WALL: Mescalito
CLIMB: Cat in the Hat
Picture
Climb: Cat in the Hat (Trad)(5.7)(3 pitches the way we chopped it up - we didn't count the middle scramble as a pitch)
  • NOTE: We did not do the final pitch (labeled as Pitch 5 in Handren - aka. the run-out pitch. This is the last pitch you can do if you want to rappel. If you go above this pitch you are committing to a long walk-off). We didn't do it because we will be repeating this pitch multiple times on other 5.7 climbs on this tour that intersect with Cat in the Hat at the bottom of this pitch. 
Wall: Mescalito
Rope: We used two twin 60s because the rappel is safest that way. You still have to down scramble in the middle scramble section.
Lead for a New Trad Climber? So-So, protection isn't bad on the pitches we highlight (sand the "runout pitch") but they are actually harder than the 5.5/5.6 ratings given to them and it could be a surprise. 
 Conclusion WTF? What the FIZZLE!
  • Cat in the Hat is a super popular "classic" multipitch trad climb. We were expecting a stellar climb given it's popularity and "star rating." Although there are a couple good pitches and the rock quality is good, neither Rick nor I were particularly inspired by this climb. It was actually disappointing. 
    • The reason we didn't care for the climb is it feels like a convoluted line. There is a fair amount of scrambling, going "around" stuff, and weird and unclear spots for belays. Basically the climb does not flow. The decent climbing is disrupted quite a bit - once you start "getting into it" you are met with disruption. 
  • This is an old school climb. Depending on the resource you are using, the lower pitches are rated 5.5/5.6, but there are multiple spots on all of those pitches that exceed that rating. It could easily confound or overwhelm a new trad leader (unless they are a confident 5.11 sport climber, then it probably wouldn't faze them - I'm not saying the moves are 5.11, they aren't, but it's trad.)


​Pitch 1 - 190 feet (I used most of the 60 m rope)

Picture
Picture
​
  • This is the hardest of the pitches we did (note that we did not do the last pitch yet, because we will be doing that pitch on two more 5.7 climbs on Mescalito). There are a couple of spots on this pitch that can raise the blood pressure and are harder than the 5.5/5.6 ratings given to it in the various guidebook resources. 
  • As you near the end of this pitch, you will see a set of bolted anchors on the right. I skipped these, as many descriptions advise, but it actually may not be a bad idea to stop here, then do a short pitch to the next bolted anchor. It'll take longer, but help decrease rope drag. 
  • After the first set of anchors, you will reach a good-sized ledge that does not have any bolted anchors. The anchors are actually the NEXT ledge up and to the right.
    • NOTE: Rope drag may be bad at this point.
    • The Handren topo only shows one large ledge and what could (barely) be interpreted as a smaller ledge. When you are there it looks and feels like a decent sized ledge and this could be confusing. 

Scramble (~ 50 ft)

  • If you reach the anchors on the large ledge. You can scramble unprotected on 3rd/4th class terrain until you reach the base of the next pitch (see the photo for Pitch 2). This would be the quickest, most efficient means of travel.
  • You will see a mangled stuck cam in a crack that may lure you that direction. 
  • These are the anchors you will scramble back down to on the decent. If you have two 60 m ropes, you will be able to reach the bottom. 
Picture

Pitch 2 - (~100 ft)

  • This pitch is kind of annoying and on broken terrain. This is probably why they gave it a 5.5, but there are some tricky moves that exceed 5.5.
  • This pitch ends at a decent-sized multi-root tree/shrub with tat.
Picture

Pitch 3 (~150 ft)

  • This is the best pitch so far, with some interesting dark petina and consistently steeper terrain compared to the other pitches. 
  • But, near the top the terrain becomes broken again. When you reach a ledge, look right for some broken blocks (see photo labeled "Top of P3.") On top of these rock is the slung boulder. This sets up the belay for the "final" (rappel-able) pitch. As I mentioned above, we didn't do this last pitch because we will be doing it several times on other climbs (but I will update this after we complete that pitch, so all pitches are represented here.)
  • There are about 5 slings wrapped around the top of the boulder with rap rings. This is where we began our rappel descent.
Picture
Picture

Descent

  • We had twin 60s. This is highly recommended. A single 60 will not work. A single 70 might work breaking it up into 4 rappels, using the other anchor on P1. 
  • Rappel 1 - slung boulder to good sized tree at the top of P2.
  • Rappel 2 - Tree to base of P2, then scramble down to the bolted anchors at the base of the scramble.
  • Rappel 3 - Bolted anchors to the ground (this requires the two 60s for sure - if you don't have twins you'll need to go to the next set of anchors - the ones we climbed past on P1).

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: June 29, 2020
​WALLS HIT: 1
NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 1
NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 4
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 450

DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0

​START & END TIMES:
  • Arrived Parking Lot: 6:30 a.m.
  • Arrived at Wall: 7:00 a.m.
  • Began: 7:30 a.m.
  • Done Climbing: 2:00 p.m.
  • Back at Car: 2:30 p.m.

​TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 111
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 153

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 13,420'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 126 (out of 237)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 37,327'

​​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 
​​​​​​​​​​​4
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • WT Fua: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
    • WTForget About It: Glue Gun
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (took the first time, not the second)
  • Rick - On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu​


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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  • Home
  • Buy!
  • Maps
    • Hiking
    • City of Rocks, ID - Climber's Map
    • Joshua Tree, CA - Climber's Map
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV - Climber's Map
    • Smith Rock, OR - Climber's Map
  • Map Details
    • Quality
    • Map Elements
    • Methodology
    • Environment
  • About
  • Blog
    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
  • Contact
    • Feedback
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  • Media Coverage
  • Calendar