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        • Amusement Park
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        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
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          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
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          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
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          • Day 16: Myster Z
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        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
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        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
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        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
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Day 52: Sandstone Quarry & ​Calico 2
WALLS: The Walrus, Runningman, & Sweet Pain
CLIMBS: I am the Walrus, Eat My Shorts, Unknown New Route, Right of Unknown New Route
SUMMARY HAIKU

​Hit three walls today
Some sport climbs to take a break
Phew! A hot walk back!
Picture
Climb-On Maps excerpts for Sandstone Quarry and Calico 2 showing the path we took (the pink/purple arrows) to hit 3 walls on Day 52. Note: The underlying trail colors denote the difficulty of the approach (green = easy. yellow = moderate, orange = strenuous, red = ass kicker, black & red = soul crushing), black lines show the wall locations, and the circles are the At-A-Glance Crag Summaries e.g.The Walrus has 6 climbs, all sport (blue circle), three 5.9 and under (green in outer circle), three 5.10-5.11 (yellow in outer circle), and three 5.12 or above (red in outer circle]

Rick and I were ready for a (hopefully) fun sport day on the WTF 5.7 Tour (I say hopefully because we've hit some crap sport routes - Glue Gun anyone?), but the remaining sport routes on this tour are scattered and becoming slim pickings! But, after the scary "trad" climbs on Tuna and Chips, we were determined to do some sport climbs! We planned a somewhat ambitious loop of climbing on this hot summer's day.

Often it seems we set out to do multiple climbs on different walls and, for various reasons, we don't get our original plan completed. But, this time we did it!

We began with a short 30 foot climb on The Walrus in the Sandstone Quarry area, then went over for one 5.7+ on the Running Man Wall, and finished up on two 5.7s at Sweet Pain Wall. The map above shows the path we took. Below are the route details. 



​The Walrus (Sandstone Quarry)

Climb: I Am the Walrus (Sport) (5.7)(30')
Wall: The Walrus (in Sandstone Quarry)
Beginner Lead: Maybe - it's not that difficult, just freaky with the loose flakes

Conclusion WTF? What the FLAKEY FLAKES!

The key features of this climb are:
  • It's quite a short climb on a large boulder.
  • Might consider using a stick clip for the first bolt. 
  • It's a fun climb and not difficult, just a little unsettling, as the flakes are hollow and vibrate. I suspect they will pop off some time in the not-to-distant future.
  • There is a 5.10d that shares the same anchor. You can either lead it or TR after doing the 5.7. 
Picture

Running Man (Calico 2)

Picture
Climb: Eat My Shorts (Sport) (5.7+)(80')(found only in Mountain Project)
Wall: Running Man (in Calico 2)
Beginner Lead: I don't think so.

Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY FRICTION!

The Mountain Project description says "fun easy climbing." We agree it's fun, we disagree that it's easy. A comment below says "Have your head screwed on right for this lead. Pretty engaging thin sections above bolts make this not ideal for a new leader. Great technical movement regardless." That we agree with.

The bolting distance is good, but seems odd when you look at it from the ground - as they angle off to the left. Thus the climb is a bit traverse-y on thin, technical terrain. The angled bolting keeps you off the featured arete to the right as you near the anchors. You might find yourself wishing the bolts went over there... but alas you are kind of forced to stay on the technical slab. 

We found it to be pretty sustained. Usually we interpret a + as one or two moves that exceed the 7 rating, but this has a lot of plus - making it a bit sandbagged for the grade (rick calls it a 5.8 and I'd even give it a 5.9 rating). 
Picture
Rick on "Eat My Shorts" at Running Man Wall.

Sweet Pain (Calico 2)

Picture
Climb: Unknown New Route (Sport) (5.7)(50')(found only in Mountain Project)
Wall: Sweet Pain (in Calico 2)
Beginner Lead: Hmmm, the right climb might be a better option. 

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!

This is a fun climb but the start is a bit muscle-y and spicy, especially if you don't get the right sequence and find the hidden hold. I'd recommend stick clipping the first bolt because the terrain drops off below. Falling before the second bolt will result in a deck. 

The climb gets featured and straight forward after the first few moves. It's run out to the last bolt over slope-y, low angled terrain. 
Climb: Right of Unknown New Route (Sport) (5.7)(50')(found only in Mountain Project)
Wall: Sweet Pain (in Calico 2)
Beginner Lead: Yeah, probably. Recommend reading the details below to decide.  

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!

This is a fun climb but the start is a bit muscle-y for the first several moves. It gets easy after that (it's easier than the climb to the left). Recommend stick clipping the first bolt because a fall might cause injury due to the gap below. 

Falling before he second bolt will likely result in decking. The climb is mostly highly featured face with some low angled slab run out to the anchor. There are mussy hooks on this anchor and chains you can clip your own anchor into if you plan to top rope with multiple people. 

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: July 26, 2020
​WALLS HIT: 3
NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 4
NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 4
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 210

DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0

​START & END TIMES:
  • Arrived Parking Lot: 6:05 a.m.
  • Arrived at The Walrus Wall (in Sandstone Quarry): 6:15 a.m.
  • Began: 6:30 a.m.
  • Done Climbing: 7:00 a.m.
  • To Running Man Wall Arrived At: 7:50 a.m.
  • Done Climbing There and Left for Sweet Pain Wall: 8:30 a.m.
  • Arrived Sweet Pain Wall: 9 a.m.
  • Completed Two Climbs at Sweet Pain & Left For Car: 10 a.m.
  • Arrived Back at the Car (in Sandstone Quarry Parking Lot): 11:00 a.m.
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 124
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 166
TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 14,540'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 114 (out of 237)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 36,207'
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • WT Fua: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
    • WTForget About It: Glue Gun
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (took the first time, not the second she climbed it)
  • Rick - On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu
    • WTF'r: Tuna and Chips (he took and rested at the start of pitch 2 to recover from pitch 1 before continuing)
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: ​​​​​​​​​​​4


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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  • Home
  • Buy!
  • Maps
    • Hiking
    • City of Rocks, ID - Climber's Map
    • Joshua Tree, CA - Climber's Map
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV - Climber's Map
    • Smith Rock, OR - Climber's Map
  • Map Details
    • Quality
    • Map Elements
    • Methodology
    • Environment
  • About
  • Blog
    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
  • Contact
    • Feedback
  • Retail Stores
  • Media Coverage
  • Calendar