SUMMARY HAIKU
A What the Fucker!
Slopey, sandy, slab, bad pro
And, scary, hard start
A What the Fucker!
Slopey, sandy, slab, bad pro
And, scary, hard start
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DATE OF CLIMB: JANUARY 20, 2020
WALLS HIT TODAY: 1 (Blister in the Sun) NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 1 NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 2 VERTICAL 5.7 FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 270' NUMBER OF FALLS TODAY: 0 TAKES TODAY: 0 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 |
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 85
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 108 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 8,485' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 152 (out of 237 - although we may redo Pre-Skool) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~41,812 FALLS SO FAR: 0 TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
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AT PARKING LOT: 9 a.m.
AT BASE OF CLIMB: 9:45 a.m. BEGAN CLIMBING: 10 a.m. TOPPED OUT: 1:00 p.m. BACK AT BASE OF CLIMB: 1:45 p.m. (ate some lunch) BACK AT CAR: 3 p.m. |
Conclusion WTF? WHAT THE FUCK!
This is a heady climb that has several elements that come together to make it a What the FUCK'r:
Although it's a WTF'r, there are some redeeming qualities to this climb. The slopey nature of the rock and it's lower angle going diagonally up the seam make it pretty interesting. If you aren't leading, dealing with bad rope drag, no pro, and ball-bearing-sand on slopers, it's actually fun (as a second - but this isn't a climb either of us would want to lead again.)
This is a heady climb that has several elements that come together to make it a What the FUCK'r:
- A challenging start (waay harder than a 5.7 - and scary on lead too)
- Very limited protection - if you see an opening, any opening, use it even if you think it sucks (and it very likely may suck). Most of the gear is on the small-to-medium side (including nuts), but Rick did place the #6.
- Low angle rock = really bad rope drag
- Even though the rock is low angle the climb is "slopey" (i.e. no "jugs", you will find a very occasional thank God "crimp") and has a sandy, gritty surface that feels like you are constantly on mini-ball-bearings
- Crumby, sloughy rock (This white rock is not the most solid of rock. You can see that good sized chunks regularly slough off. It does seem to improve the higher you get.)
- What looks like a nice, long, angled crack is NOT a crack. It's a seam that occasionally opens to a crack.
Although it's a WTF'r, there are some redeeming qualities to this climb. The slopey nature of the rock and it's lower angle going diagonally up the seam make it pretty interesting. If you aren't leading, dealing with bad rope drag, no pro, and ball-bearing-sand on slopers, it's actually fun (as a second - but this isn't a climb either of us would want to lead again.)
Pitch 1
Stef belaying Rick. There are a couple of bushes where Rick is that get in the way of the rope. Above Rick is where the start gets difficult and scary. In the photo the rock above Rick looks easy - it isn't - and it's difficult to protect the moves. It does help to be on the taller side.
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Rick at the belay. Joy going up ahead of Stef. The climb looks like you are walking up a set of stairs, although there are a few moments of "stair-step," as a whole it's really NOT like that. It's harder and headier than it looks. (We've been on plenty of "stair-steppy" climbs...)
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Basically find whatever way up that is doable and you can protect, working your way towards the angled seam that looks like a crack. The start is heady, steep, slopers. Try to avoid sharp angles with the rope and protection to reduce rope drag.
The belay spot has a small ledge, but we think it's only a matter of time before that ledge sloughs off (there is a crack all the way around the "ledge" and this is pretty weak rock).
Pitch 2
Rick leading pitch 2. With three people on the climb, it was easier and quicker to have the same person lead both pitches. Kudos to Rick for leading this.
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Stef topping out.
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Joy and Rick at the top.
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Pitch 2 eases up compared to the first pitch, but pro is still poor.
Rick ended up using a #6 on this pitch. There may have been a smaller slot further back in the crack, but I vaguely recall it having a thin flake of rock as one of the sides, not sure though.
Rick ended up using a #6 on this pitch. There may have been a smaller slot further back in the crack, but I vaguely recall it having a thin flake of rock as one of the sides, not sure though.
Walk-off
As you top out from the climb, keep following the slab back until it opens up into a small valley and different formations. Soon you should see this to your left.
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The gully you will follow looks steep and like it drops off to no where, but as you approach it, the path appears. There is no real exposure. This is a cool bridge you climb under.
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Stef and Joy on the decent.
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It took a bit of exploring for us to find the walk-off, because there were descriptions on Mountain Project but no photos. So here are some photos showing you exactly where to go. The walk-off was quite straight-forward and no exposure.