DATE: June 19, 2019
​WALLS HIT: 2 (Cowlick and Cannibal)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS: 6
NUMBER OF PITCHES: 5 (Yes, this is correct. One climb was a "What the FAIL!")
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 235
TOTAL VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 785
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 226
VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~ 49,300
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 1

START & END TIMES:

• Parking lot 5 a.m. - We tried the 3:30 a.m. wake up time again... and what do you know, we were still leaving at around 4:20. Harrrumph... Ok, since this is about having fun and we aren't hard-assess, I think we need to reset our goal to be at the parking lot by 5 a.m. instead of the wall. OK... I discussed it with myself and reality... done...  
• Arrived at the first wall 5:15 a.m. - Nice, short approach!
• Back at car 11 a.m. to work... (don't I wish we could be full-time dirtbags!)

COWLICK CRAG - 5.7 climbs 

• CONCLUSION: WTF? What the FIESTY!
  • ​Cow Lick (Sport) - A fun, slabby, holey, spicy little diddy.
• CONCLUSION: WTF? What the FUN!
  • Flying Chuckwalla (Sport) - Just so ya' know, there are several hangars with visibly rusted bolts and nuts. 

ANCHOR TIPS: The two routes below are on their own funky anchor to the right of Cow Lick. We set up the anchor by climbing over to it after finishing Cow Lick. The anchor can also be accessed from the ground. Be sure you have a Personal Anchor System (PAS) and long cordelette to set up the anchor. The anchor is vertically offset by at least a foot, so a long cordelette will allow you to equalize the anchor. The first bolt is near the edge and the second bolt is quite a bit below the edge. You will need to clip your PAS into the first bolt to remain safe accessing the second bolt. We do not recommend rappelling from this anchor - walk off instead.
​

• RHG Route/Eldo (TR) 
• Blind Faith/This Ain't Eldo (TR)

​

• CONCLUSION: WTF? What the FAIL!
  • The Wonderful World of Shrimp - This climb was a complete FAIL...because, well, we bailed on it...
    • There's a bad anchor (the hangar spins and the bolt itself wiggles inside the rock). The anchor is also in a highly questionable vacuous block where, if you look inside the crack beneath the block, you can see water has completely hollowed out the space (the entire anchor needs to be moved). We did supplement the anchor with cams in order to do the climb.
      • ​Below is a video we shot of the anchor (CORRECTION: I misidentified the route name in the video - I said it was RHG but it's NOT, it's the Wonderful World of Shrimp). 
    • Rick was the first to do the climb. It's actually slightly overhung and there are key holds to get up to and past the lip. There is decent sized flake that is a primary hand-hold. When Rick grabbed it, the flake moved and dropped rocks from its underside.
      • Rick explored options to get around that hold, to no avail. Going around it would no longer have been that 5.7 climb. It would have been a considerably more difficult one. We could've gone around, but then it's no longer the 5.7 we intended to do.​ After all this is the 5.7 tour, not the "we did a 5.10 instead tour..."
      • Rick also considered using the hold, but that could've been dangerous to me and our dog below. Plus if it ripped off, the climb would have been considerably changed. We just didn't want to do that...
      • For these reasons, we decided to bail. So, "Shrimpy" is a What the FAIL!

CORRECTION: I misidentified the route name in the video - I said it was RHG but it's NOT, it's the Wonderful World of Shrimp.

---

CANNIBAL CRAG- 5.7 climb​

• CONCLUSION: WTF? What the FUN!
  • ​Ma and Pa in Kettle - Guidebook says Trad. It's not. Plus you cannot TR this climb...read on for beta.
    • There are 4 bolts and you run it out until you get to the single bolt waaaayyyy at the top -well beyond the end of this climb. 
    • There is no place to put gear in Ma and Pa. That seam up the ramp is a total fake-out for gear! Once you get past the 4th bolt, there is also no place for gear - not even to build an anchor to bring up your second.
    • You HAVE to belay from above for another person to clean. THERE ARE NO TOPROPING OPTIONS ON THIS CLIMB. There is a single bolt waaayyy far back from the edge you can use to secure yourself to belay up the second. Then you both walk over to the rap anchors on the north end of the formation (towards the main trail). 
    • Just a little bit unexpected and rounds out the theme of Day 2: "Ye shall encounter shit!"

---

WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area & Alphabetically