We had heard that the Ultraman wall was runout and were under the impression it was slabby. The climbs we did were actually not slabby at all, they were basically featured face and at a lower angle. Some of the climbs were more run out than others (described in more detail below). The rock was high quality except for Rodan, which wasn't that great of a climb. The rest of the climbs were fun.
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Scent of Ultraman
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Climb: Scent of Ultraman (Sport) (5.7)(1 pitch - 110')
Wall: Ultraman Beginner's Lead? It may be ok for a new leader, but one that has some confidence because there is some space between bolts Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
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Mothra (7+)
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Climb: Mothra (Sport + 1 small nut or cam) (5.7+)(1 pitch - 115')
Wall: Ultraman Beginner's Lead? It may be ok for a new leader who can place some gear, but one that has some confidence because there is some space between bolts Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
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There is really only one spot on the climb that will take additional gear. A nut can be placed in the black petina OR a cam in a crack in the bulge nearing the top. A cam will need a long sling because you then go left to clip a bolt. Then a sling on the bolt, because you go back right up over the bulge towards the anchors. Otherwise you will be fighting rope drag.
- The only + about this climb is the start. There is a small lip you need to use to pull yourself up on (upper body strength) while trying to avoid a beautiful, big barrel cactus (please protect the cactus - ones this big are over 100 years old.) Having a stick clip helps to protect you while making this move (and not falling into the cactus.)
- A minimum of 70m rope is needed for this climb.
Godzilla
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Climb: Godzilla (Sport) (5.7)(1 pitch - 130')
Wall: Ultraman Beginner's Lead? No. But it's good for practicing runout lead head. Conclusion WTF? What the FUNOUT!
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- The rock gets more frail as you approach Rodan.
- Cutting over to Rodan did two things: (1) Rodan has zero protection (it's rated X), so we wanted to toprope it; And (2) We only had a 70m rope. You need an 80m or two ropes to get down from Godzilla. Rick brought me up as a second and then we set up an anchor to TR Rodan and then rappelled down.
Rodan (5.7X)
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Climb: Rodan (Toprope or Free Solo) (5.7)(1 pitch - 100')
Wall: Ultraman Conclusion WTF? What the FRAIL!
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Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: July 5, 2020
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 4 NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 4 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 455 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0 START & END TIMES:
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TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 115
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 157 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 13,875' NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 123 (out of 237) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 36,872' FALLS SO FAR: 0 TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR:
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