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    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Day 44: School Yard 1
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
          • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
    • Meet Our Tools >
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        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
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    • For the Ladies >
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WALL: Ultraman

CLIMBS: Scent of the Ultraman, Mothra, Godzilla, Rodan
We had heard that the Ultraman wall was runout and were under the impression it was slabby. The climbs we did were actually not slabby at all, they were basically featured face and at a lower angle. Some of the climbs were more run out than others (described in more detail below). The rock was high quality except for Rodan, which wasn't that great of a climb. The rest of the climbs were fun. 
Picture
Picture

Scent of Ultraman

Climb: Scent of Ultraman (Sport) (5.7)(1 pitch - 110')
Wall: Ultraman
Beginner's Lead? It may be ok for a new leader, but one that has some confidence because there is some space between bolts

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
  • Scent of Ultraman is the best bolted of all the 5.7s on this wall, but there is still some space between bolts.
  • It's an easy climb and, unfortunately, someone chose to "enhance" some of the holds with a drill, making it such that there's never really a blank spot.
  • This climb need at least a 70m rope.   
Picture

Mothra (7+)

Climb: Mothra (Sport + 1 small nut or cam) (5.7+)(1 pitch - 115')
Wall: Ultraman
Beginner's Lead? It may be ok for a new leader who can place some gear, but one that has some confidence because there is some space between bolts

Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
  • Mothra is more run out than Scent of Ultraman and can benefit from one a small nut or cam placement near the top.
Picture
Picture
There is really only one spot on the climb that will take additional gear. A nut can be placed in the black petina OR a cam in a crack in the bulge nearing the top. A cam will need a long sling because you then go left to clip a bolt. Then a sling on the bolt, because you go back right up over the bulge towards the anchors. Otherwise you will be fighting rope drag.
  • The only + about this climb is the start. There is a small lip you need to use to pull yourself up on (upper body strength) while trying to avoid a beautiful, big barrel cactus (please protect the cactus - ones this big are over 100 years old.) Having a stick clip helps to protect you while making this move (and not falling into the cactus.)
  • ​A minimum of 70m rope is needed for this climb.

Godzilla

Climb: Godzilla (Sport) (5.7)(1 pitch - 130')
Wall: Ultraman
Beginner's Lead? No. But it's good for practicing runout lead head. 

Conclusion WTF? What the FUNOUT!
  • This is the most runout of the 5.7 climbs on this wall. It is fun, but we wanted to really acknowledge the runout in our WTF rating (What the FUNOUT!)
  • There is no place for extra pro, so you are committed to the bolts. 
  • The start is the most difficult part of the climb and the first bolt is quite high. Because of the terrain below, a fall would be consequential. We had a stick clip, so Rick climbed up partway and clipped the bolt to protect the first moves.
  • The second bolt is pretty far, so a fall before clipping would mean a deck, but the angle does soften between bolts 1 and 2 and there are lots of good holds. It's still heady though. 
  • We actually didn't finish the last 15-20 feet of the climb, so we can't comment on that terrain. Instead, Rick cut over to the anchors on Rodan. He clipped one bolt on the climb in between (Destroy All Monsters) on the traverse over. 
Picture
  • The rock gets more frail as you approach Rodan. 
  • Cutting over to Rodan did two things: (1) Rodan has zero protection (it's rated X), so we wanted to toprope it; And (2) We only had a 70m rope. You need an 80m or two ropes to get down from Godzilla. Rick brought me up as a second and then we set up an anchor to TR Rodan and then rappelled down. 

Rodan (5.7X)

Climb: Rodan (Toprope or Free Solo) (5.7)(1 pitch - 100')
Wall: Ultraman

Conclusion WTF? What the FRAIL!
  • There is zero protection on Rodan so you either toprope it or free solo it. I would definitely NOT recommend it as a free solo, and I'm not sure I'd even say it's worth a top rope. 
  • The quality of the rock is significantly worse than all of the other climbs (a chunk broke off in my hand) and it just doesn't have much personality. 
  • It's not a terrible climb, it's just meh. 
Picture

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: July 5, 2020
​WALLS HIT: 1
NUMBER OF CLIMBS TODAY: 4
NUMBER OF PITCHES TODAY: 4
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 455

DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 0

​START & END TIMES:
  • Arrived Parking Lot: 6:05 a.m.
  • Arrived at Wall: 6:30 a.m.
  • Began: 6:45 a.m.
  • Done Climbing: 11:00 a.m.
  • Back at Car: 11:30 a.m.
TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 115
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 157

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 13,875'
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 123 (out of 237)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 36,872'
FALLS SO FAR: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • WT Fua: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
    • WTForget About It: Glue Gun
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (took the first time, not the second)
  • Rick - On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: ​​​​​​​​​​​4


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Calico 1 (1ST Pullout)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery

​​First Creek Canyon
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall

​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: School Yard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2

Icebox Canyon (DONE)
Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack
Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek

Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
Red Springs (DONE)
Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)

Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case

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  • Home
  • Buy!
  • Maps
    • Hiking
    • City of Rocks, ID - Climber's Map
    • Joshua Tree, CA - Climber's Map
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV - Climber's Map
    • Smith Rock, OR - Climber's Map
  • Map Details
    • Quality
    • Map Elements
    • Methodology
    • Environment
  • About
  • Blog
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Day 44: School Yard 1
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
          • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
  • Contact
    • Feedback
  • Retail Stores
  • Media Coverage
  • Calendar