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Rose Tower

CLIMB: Olive Oil
Summary Haiku

Run it out my friend
Easy, except when it's not
It was HOT this day!
Picture
CLIMB: Olive Oil (Trad) - 5 pitches, 665' feet
WALL: Rose Tower
GEAR: Pro to 4"
FOR A NEW TRAD LEADER? Probably not

Conclusion WTF? What the FRIED!

Pitch 1

Pitch 1 goes up the ramp then out of sight around the right to an alcove, which is where you set up for pitch 2.

We began on the right side of the ramp, but some people begin on the other side, which might set you up better for the crack and features to the left (which help you avoid the steeper slab above the bulge). The way we started there is little to no protection for the first 20 or so feet where there are some horizontal cracks just below the bulge.

After you turn right out of view (see photo), it is easy, run-out terrain (5.4ish) for 30-40+ feet.
Picture

Pitch 2

Unless you have fat gear to place down low, the protection at the start of pitch two in on the left side. Be careful not to get sucked off too far left, because it gets awkward and then it's still awkward to traverse right to gain the large crack shown in the right side of the photo.

Many people string pitches 2 and 3 together (which is approximately a 200-feet), but we opted to end pitch 2 in the small ledge just below the white rock with the clear crack. 

The crux for this pitch is right below where this pitch ends, and the crux for pitch 3 is right right at its start, so if you string them together you will have some cruxes in a row - but these cruxes are protectable. 
Picture

Pitch 3

As mentioned above, the crux for pitch three is right off the bat - jam and smear through the slopey rock to easier terrain.

As the left-side corner ends, where it meets the black petina chunky rock (in the photo where Rick is touching the "left side corner") continue up a little bit then veer left towards a ledge that should soon be visible left of the base of the dihedral above Rick in the photo.
​
Picture
Just above this point on pitch 3, veer left towards a ledge left of the base of the dihedral seen in the photo. (Photo Credit: Climb-On Maps)
Picture
The start of pitch 3 of Olive Oil. (Photo Credit: Climb-On Maps)

Pitch 4

The base of pitch 4 is a fairly good sized ledge with some weird gear. Delicately traverse out and up climber's right to go around the dihedral. 

Place gear where ever you can find it down here, because you are about to enter about 20-30 feet of no protection up juggy, easy terrain.
​
Keep angling right towards the blocky corner, NOT the crack going straight up. 

Place a #4 or larger in the offwidth and stem up to the right block and continue to the belay ledge.
Picture

Pitch 5

Pitch 5 is the most serious of the pitches on this climb. A confident climber should lead this pitch. 

Have the lead clip into a piece of pro in the anchor because the first piece of pro is in another 30+ feet. From the anchor, traverse right across the black petina to gain the crack and head up towards the large corner. Although not super difficult, this starting terrain is not as easy as the other runout sections of this climb so far. 

​Once you reach the large corner, stem and grunt your way up, placing pro where you can - because options disappear on occasion - unless you brought a #8 or so with you. We had a #4 and that was too small be used. 
Picture
Pitch 5 of Olive Oil. (Photo Credit: Climb-On Maps)
Picture
The upper part of pitch 5 where there is run out and cruxy climbing. (Photo Credit: Climb-On Maps)
In the close-up photo of the pitch 5 corner, there is a flat, black patina face above Rick. This section is the unprotected crux of this pitch (at least 20+ feet above the last piece of gear). You can try to offwidth-grunt your way through a tight chimney with a bulge, or come out onto the slick face with limited holds. The face will go faster and save energy, but you definitely feel exposed with the lack of protection beneath you.

We stopped and belayed at the end of this corner where the terrain flattens out. To the climber's right is a low-angle (but very exposed) scrambling for the walk-off. Next time, rather than building the anchor at the top of the corner, we would go ahead and continuing up and right for another 10 or so feet to maintain some protection for the start of "walk-off" portion. It's possible this might cause some rope drag or a need to simulclimb a bit (because the pitch is a full 70 meter rope). We use walkie-talkies and those would be especially helpful in this circumstance. (Or you can short-rope with some protection to get past that exposed start of the walk-off section.)

Walk-off

Refer to the last paragraphs of pitch 5 above regarding the "starting point" of the walk-off and how to reduce exposure. This leads into a large, shady alcove where you can eat, drink, rest, and assemble your gear for the big walk-off (Stef's selfie photo). We opted to keep our climbing shoes on to navigate the booty-scooting/down climbing section. 

From the alcove, head out straight, up, and then veer left. Soon you will see a pile of rocks and a summit register. From the summit register, go left (west) where you will scramble/booty-scoot down and "hop off" a lip/ledge. There is some exposure here, but a "fall" would be more like a road-rash tumble and scrap then a full-on fall.
Picture
Rose Tower summit register. (Photo Credit: Climb-On Maps)
Picture
Stef's selfie in the alcove at the top of Olive Oil. (Photo Credit: Climb-On Maps_
Continue down then west to gain the slab (Rick in the photo), then veer right to work your way down into the gully on the other side of the Rose Tower (the gully is shown and labeled in the very top photo in this page.)

Follow the trail down the gully. If you still want to do some more climbing. We would highly recommend Canola Cracks - especially the right crack!

Once we entered the walk-off gully, we switched into our approach shoes.
Picture

Climb Stats to Date

DATE OF CLIMB: September 17, 2022
​WALLS HIT: 1
NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS: 1
NUMBER OF 5.7 PITCHES: 5
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED: 665'
DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0

​TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 184
TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 247

TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 22,365
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 54 (out of 238)

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 28,057'

​​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 
​​​​​​​​​​​8
FALLS SO FAR: 
  • STEF: 2 (By Stef on WTF'r Tarkus Crack)
  • ​RICK: 0
TAKES ON LEAD SO FAR: 
  • Stef – On Lead
    • WTF'r Miniwanka
    • WTF'r Lean & Languid
    • WTF'r Pauligk Pillar
    • WT Freak Out: 5.7 Freak Out
    • WTF'r Unknown left start to Datura
    • WTF'r: Short Subject
    • WT Fua: Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
    • WTForget About It: Glue Gun
    • WTFun: Cialis Cleft (took to figure out the moves on start)
    • As a second:
    • WTF'r: Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fail: Pre Skool (took the first time, not the second she climbed it)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack​
  • Rick - Takes On Lead
    • WTF'r Too Many Tantrums
    • WT Fork: The Ledger
    • WTF'r: Deja Vu
    • WTF'r: Tuna and Chips (he took and rested at the start of pitch 2 to recover from pitch 1 before continuing)
    • WTF'r: Tarkus Crack​
    • WTF'r: Peaches
    • WTF'r: Pillar Talk
  • Guests - Takes on Lead
    • Grant Corley: WTF'r Sunday School


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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WTF 5.7 Tour
© COPYRIGHT 2017-2022. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
  • Home
  • Buy!
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    • Hiking
    • City of Rocks, ID - Climber's Map
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    • Smith Rock, OR - Climber's Map
  • Map Details
    • Quality
    • Map Elements
    • Methodology
    • Environment
  • About
  • Blog
    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6 (and 90): Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
  • Contact
    • Feedback
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