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Day 10: Kraft Mountain Area

Crag: Winter Heat
HAIKU

Starts off with a tiff
​We never fight - ha! Yeah right!
Winter Heat is DONE!
Picture

​DATE: September 1, 2019
​WALLS HIT: 1 (Winter Heat)
NUMBER OF CLIMBS: 2 
NUMBER OF PITCHES: 3
​NUMBER OF FALLS: 0
NUMBER OF TAKES: 0
VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED TODAY: 260

TOTAL VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 1,885
NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 211

VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: ~48,200
DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED: 0
​DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 3

​START & END TIMES:
  • Arrived Parking Lot - 5:00 a.m.
  • Arrived at Winter Heat wall - 5:45 a.m.
  • Back at the car - 11:15 a.m., 95 degrees F


​The Routes


​Climb 1: Hole in the Pants (Trad) (5.7)(2 pitches - 190')
Wall: Winter Heat

Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY!
  • The first 15-20 feet is a free solo.
  • MP and Handren list Pitch 1 as a 5.3. Rick and I definitely disagree with this assessment. It's harder than that (I'd say it's within the modern 5.7 range). 
  • Guidebooks also list 2.5" as the largest piece of pro needed. Two #4s are needed to protect in the off-width crack. If you only have a 2.5" cam you will run it out (with decking potential) on the more "challenging" terrain (or terrain with rock that isn't the worst but you still may not want to fully trust with consequences). 
  • Rock is decent for the most part. 
  • All in all the climb is fun if you are comfortable with a free-solo start on terrain that is harder than 5.3. 

Climb 2: Nuttin Could Be Finer
​(Listed as Trad. As trad we'd call this a rated X. We strongly recommend TRing it.) NOTE: You do have to lead a climb to set up the TR.) (5.7)(1 pitch - 70')

Wall: Winter Heat


Conclusion WTF? What the FUN!
  • This climb was fun as heck. The near-solid black petina results in a variety of holds that keep things super interesting (underclings, crimps, holes, side pulls). Plus the look of the rock up close is a visually stimulating change of pace from the red.
  • This climb should be listed as a TR or, if you lead it, X. It is not really protectable in the first 40 feet [unless you count one micro-nut placement in thin petina that would blow out in a fall. You would also need the right sized (large) tricams to place in holes at about 50 feet up as the first real pro.]
  • Previously we inspected the climb and decided we didn't like the look of the non-existent pro, so we set up the climb as a TR after completing "Hole in the Pants." A static rope or  very long webbing is needed. The anchor has to be built about 40 feet back. We used a small tree and two boulders for the anchor and belayed from above to prevent too much friction and wear on the rope across the long slabby top (Hence the photos from the top, rather than us on the climb). 

Summary

If you've read our other posts you may recall that we previously attempted to climb Winter Heat Wall not once, but twice (Day 4 and Day 7). Both times we arrived too late and were shut down by the heat and that absorbent black wall.

The problem with the previous two attempts was that we tried to tack on Winter Heat after doing climbs at other "nearby" walls. Since Winter Heat is completely on the other side of Kraft Mountain, it's a 45-minute approach. We just wanted to maximize our hiking time by doing Winter Heat Wall when we were already almost there, but the summer wouldn't let us. We finally had to acquiesce and commit to an early morning approach just for Winter Heat (or wait until Fall). 

After two "failed" attempts, Winter Heat was like a thorn in my side. I wanted to "git 'er done." The thought crossed my mind that maybe Winter Heat had some "bad mojo." And, there were several "almost" moments that, ultimately, turned out OK. Like:
  • Getting into a little tiff with Rick (more on that in a sec);
  • My discomfort with a free-solo start on P1 (I like my protection, thank you very much);
  • Getting creative with a TR set up when we realized the protection was about 35-40 feet back from the edge (for Nuttin' Could Be Finer); And,
  • Dealing with a stuck rope.

Winter Heat is now done and checked off the WTF 5.7 Tour list. I liked it. The rock on the wall is striking and unique. I'd gladly walk the 45 minutes to get here when I can spend the full day that it deserves. 
A Little Aside... Arguments

I know, I know, Rick and I seem like the perfect couple who live in a bubble-climbing-land (that's like fairyland but for climbing) and we NEVER ever argue (queue the snicker...).

We used to argue more than we do now and, believe me, we've had some doozies. There were even moments where we wondered if we'd make it. Imagine selling your house, living in a van for a couple years, being together 24-7, spending your life-earnings to start a business that was also very, very physically demanding in a business sector that has a tiny population of people that would buy our product (that would be Climb-On Maps), and, for the sake of completeness, carrying emotional childhood baggage that would pop out with the flip of a trigger (who doesn't have that, right?). All fuel for the fire. 

Naturally we had to make a choice - figure it out or implode (or maybe explode... implosion/explosion, either way the relationship is headed for the morgue.) Figuring it out meant doing the hard work - personally and together. And, the work doesn't stop, because change is slow (why do our brains have to be such creatures of habit?) and we don't stop being faulty humans.

And, arguments start with the smallest of things. Take today, for example... I was geared up, ready to lead the first pitch of "Hole in the Pants," Rick had me on belay, and, I'll be damned if nature didn't call (this is a challenge with morning climbs, which I'm sure I will post about on another day...)

Mind you, we are racing against time and heat, so getting out of all my gear to take care of business would be super inconvenient and time-consuming to say the least. I debated about holding everything in, but with a two-pitch climb, dealing with a top-rope set up on top of the formation (more time), carrying up supplies to pack everything out, etc. I decided "holding it in" was not an option. So I said something... and then Rick huffed and rolled his eyes out of frustration. Remember that previous reference about emotional triggers? Well, let the argument begin...

This is funny, right? In retrospect it is. And it's even funnier to think about all of things I was yelling from the bushes while taking care of business and making sure I was defending myself
(that's called multi-tasking) . Oh the injustice!

Well, as you can see from the video, the anger dissipated and we let things go. There are many important skills in a relationship that I won't get into here (after all there are thousands of tomes, websites, and Insta-accounts dedicated solely to this topic). But I will say two things:

(1) It's important that each person identify his or her own personal, deep-seated reactions, be able to communicate them, and, be willing to own and face-up to them (complex and not easy); And,

(2) Learn to prioritize and let things go. If you hold onto everything, you will end up with a very cluttered emotional house. Although it's tempting to believe every feeling and reaction is important, some things aren't worth
locking horns over or allowing to fester. This doesn't disregard how you feel, it just means letting the other person feel "their way" (e.g. Rick was annoyed with my time management and worried about the coming heat) and you feel your way (e.g. I can't help it when nature calls, I have a right to take care of business), and then move on. Neither person was wrong here. Let it go (and get climbing!)


​WTF 5.7 Tour: Red Rock Canyon- Climbs By Area

WTF Tour Homepage
General
The Plan
Managing the Desert Heat

Black Velvet Canyon
Day 79: Schaeffers's Delight
Day 83: Ballantine Blast
​Day 86: Lazy Buttress

Calico 1 (1st Pullout) (DONE)
Amusement Park
Day 17: Civilization 
Day 14: The Slab
Day 20: Panty Wall
Day21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
Day 24: Child's Play
Day 49: Ultraman
Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
Day 51: Tuna and Chips
Day 53: Viagra Towers
Day 59: Iron Man - Necco Waif
Day 80: Tuna Cookies
Day 80: The Oasis - Diamond Dance
​Day 81: CarlyQuinn

​Calico 2 (2nd Pullout)
Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor

Day 28: Retirement Plan
Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
​Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall
Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
Day 66: The Gallery


​​First Creek Canyon
Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
Day 42: Algae on Parade
Day 44: Schoolyard 1

Day 67: Smiley Face
Day 67: Romper Room Wall 2
​Day 77: Schoolyard 2

​Day 78: Escondite
​Day 88: Lotta Brews
Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
​Icebox Canyon
 (DONE)

Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air Buttress
Day 39: Necromancer: Hop Route
Day 57: Tarkus Crack

Juniper Canyon
Day 16: Myster Z

Day 35: Mz. Why
​Day 64: Canola Cracks
Day 87: Olive Oil

Kraft Area
Day 6: Conundrum Crag
Day 7: Caligula Crag
Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
Day 10: Winter Heat Wall
Mt. Wilson
Day 41: Limon
​
Day 72: Gentleman's Club (Silicone Sag)

Oak Creek
Day 37: Johnny Vegas
Day 65: Tan Line
Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
Pine Creek
Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
Day 27: Straight Shooter 
Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel)
​Day 32-34: Flight Path
​Day 36: Birdland

Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
​
​Day 48: Cat in the Hat
​Stick Gully
  • Day 31: Stick Gully 1 - Unknown L Start to Datura
  • ​Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
  • Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain
​Day 63: Cookie Monster​
Day 69: Soloist Crack
​Red Springs (DONE)

Day 1: Red Springs (Cut Your Teeth; Hide and Seek; Happy Acres)
Day 2: Red Springs (Cowlick, Cannibal)
Day 3: Red Springs (Dickies) 
Day 5: Moderate Mecca
​Day 8: The Fringe
​
​Day 9: Reptile Rock & near The Fox
​Day 45: Gnat Man
​Day 45: Gnat Man
Day 55: Coco Crag
Day 58: Riding Hood (In Through the Out Door)
 Sandstone Quarry
Day 29: High Scalin'
Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag

Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
Day 66: Hall of Fame

Southern Outcrops
Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks 
Day 82: Illusion - Part 1

White Rock Springs Area
Day 11: Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy
Day 25: The Ledger

​Willow Springs (DONE)
​Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
​
​Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
​
​Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool
  • ​Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
  • ​Day 60 & 61: Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, & Finished Pre Skool
​Day 30: Gold Digger
Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose
​
​Day 61: Case Face - Space Case
​Day 73: Ragged Edges - Dumptruck, Midnight, & Diplomatic Immunity
Day 74: Peaches (Children's Wall)
​Day 75: N-Plus Ultra Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer face)
​Day 76: N-Plus Ultra Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain)
Day84: N-Plus Ultra Part 3 (Cereal Killer)
Day84: Grey Matter at Lost Creek Canyon
​Day 85: Communist Plan (Lost & Found)

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  • Home
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  • Map Details
    • Quality
    • Map Elements
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  • About
  • Blog
    • The 15-minutes from Red Rock Restaurant Tour >
      • Indian
      • Sushi
      • Vietnamese
    • WTF 5..7 Tour - Red Rock >
      • General >
        • The Plan
        • Managing the Desert Heat
      • Black Velvet Canyon >
        • Lazy Buttress/Whisky Peak E >
          • Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight
          • Day 83: Ballantine Blast
          • Day 86: Lazy Buttress (Climb)
      • Calico 1 (1st Pullout) >
        • Amusement Park
        • Day 17: Civilization
        • Day 20: Panty Wall
        • Day 14: The Slab
        • Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet
        • Day 24: Child's Play
        • Day 49: Ultraman
        • Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff
        • Day 51: Tuna and Chips
        • Day 53: Viagra Towers
        • Day 59 Iron Man - Necco Waif
        • Day 80 - Tuna Cookies
        • Day 80 - Diamond Dance - The Oasis
        • Day 81 - CarlyQuinn Crag
      • Calico 2 (2nd Pullout) >
        • Day 13: Meetup & Black Corridor
        • Day 28: Retirement Plan
        • Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man, & Sweet Pain
        • Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami
        • Day 56: Great Red Book Wall
        • Day 66: The Gallery
      • First Creek Canyon >
        • First Creek Slabs >
          • Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising
          • Day 67: Smiley Face
        • Lotta Balls Wall >
          • Lotta Brews
        • Romper Room >
          • Day 42: Algae on Parade
          • Day 67: Romper Room 2
        • Schoolyard >
          • Day 44: School Yard 1 - Deja Vu & Short Subject
          • Day 77: School Yard -Sunday School & Dunce's Corner
          • Day 89: Schoolyard Bully
        • Slot Club Area >
          • Day 78: Escondite
        • Strawberry Hill >
          • Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way!
      • Icebox Canyon >
        • Day 12: Sunnyside & Frigid Air
        • Day 39: Necromancer - Hop Route
        • Day 57: Tarkus Crack (Tiki Cliff)
      • Juniper Canyon >
        • Jackrabbit Buttress >
          • Day 16: Myster Z
          • Day 35: Mz. Why
        • Rose Tower >
          • Day 64: Canola Cracks
          • Day 87: Olive Oil
      • Kraft Mountain >
        • Day 6: Conundrum Crag
        • Day 7: Caligula Crag
        • Day 4: Three Peaks and Yin & Yang
        • Day 10: Winter Heat
      • Mt. Wilson >
        • Day 41: Limon
        • Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Silicone Sag
      • Oak Creek Canyon >
        • Day 37: Johnny Vegas
        • Day 65: Tan Line
        • Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle
      • Pine Creek Canyon >
        • Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums
        • Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar
        • Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall
        • Day 31: Robin Trowel (Abutment) & Stick Gully 1
        • Day 32-34: Flight Path
        • Day 34: Stick Gully 2 - Prelude
        • Day 36: Birdland
        • Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall)
        • Day 48: Cat in the Hat
        • Day 62: Stick Gully - Box of Rain
        • Day 63: Cookie Monster
        • Day 69: Soloist Crack
      • Red Springs >
        • Day 2: Cowlick and Cannibal
        • Day 1: Cut Your Teeth, Hide & Seek, Happy Acres
        • Day 3: Dickies (Seems Like a Butt)
        • Day 8: Fringe
        • Day 5: Moderate Mecca
        • Day 9: Reptile & Fox Walls
        • Day 45: Gnat Man
        • Day 55: Coco Crag
        • Day 58: Ridinghood - In Through the Out Door
      • Sandstone Quarry >
        • Day 29: High Scalin'
        • Day 47: Man's Best Friend & Americrag
        • Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure
      • Southern Outcrops >
        • Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks
        • Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1
      • White Rock Springs - Angel Food Wall >
        • Day 11: Group Therapy
        • Day 25: The Ledger
      • Willow Springs >
        • Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse
        • Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts
        • Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2
        • Day 26: Graduate Cliff - Pre Skool Part 1 >
          • Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux
        • Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2
        • Day 30 - Gold Digger
        • Day 61: Ragged Edges - Footloose
        • Day 62: Case Face - Space Case
        • Day 73: Ragged Edges Area
        • Day 74 Peaches (Children's Wall)
        • Day 75 N' Plus Ultra 1 - Geezer Face & Lucky Charms
        • Day 76: N'Plus Ultra 2 - Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
        • Day 84: N'Plus Ultra Part 3 - Cereal Killer
        • Day 84: Lost Creek Canyon - Grey Matter
        • Day 85: Communist Plan at Lost & Found
    • Meet Our Tools >
      • GPS Units
      • Lifeproof Phone Cases
      • Van Life: Tankenstein >
        • Tankenstein Gets Gutted
        • Van Life: Rebuilding Tankenstein >
          • Glowing Disco Counter Top
          • Cold Food Storage
          • Bouldering-pad-bench
          • Insulation and Vent Fan
          • Quick Fixes
          • Kingsized Pullout Bed
      • Ultralight Exposure Protection Gear
    • For the Ladies >
      • Cry
      • Getting Women Climbing Outside
      • Women's Resources
    • Red Rock Canyon, NV >
      • Camper Van Epic in Vegas
      • Mapping with Lady Lockoff
      • Vegas-epic-2
      • Vegas Mini-epic 3: Really?!?
    • Joshua Tree, CA >
      • Caterpillars! Van Rescue!
      • Gram Parsons' Logbook
      • Oh Shi*! Bees!
    • Hmmm or Haha >
      • Althea Crag & Mapping Dog
      • Exposure!
      • Realities
      • Silliness
      • Utterly Heinous Approaches
      • Podcast Interview: Ogden OUtdoor Adventure
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