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CLIMB: Diagon Alley (Trad) - 1 pitch, 90' feet
WALL: Rad Cliff (Black Velvet Canyon) GEAR: Pro to 4" - Bring an 80m rope or two ropes to rappel down! (The oak tree at the top is bad, so you need to rap off the Cadillac Crack anchors.) FOR A NEW TRAD LEADER? Not really - the pro is tricky and the top out is heady and unprotected on crappy rock Conclusion WTF? What the FEISTY! 
Stefani Dawn on Diagon Alley at Rad Cliff in Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rock Canyon, Nevada.
A meh climb that is trickier than it looks from the ground - at least for the leader. It looks like a jug-fest, but there are some thin sections with a few awkward positions to place gear. Also, the crack is wonky enough that gear placement is tricky - which is one of the main reasons I'm not sure this climb is good for the new leader. The second reason is the top-out. The last 10-15 feet of this climb has no protection on crappy rock over a bulge (place good gear before it goes wide!)
There is a dying oak tree at the top that has tat to rappel, but the tree moves... so not recommended. (NOTE: The Handren guidebook says the climb is 130 feet - this is not correct. To the oak tree it is about 90 feet. The best way to get down is to bring up your second and then have them belay you over (for safety) to the Cadillac Crack anchors (you can protect with couple of pieces.) You will need an 80m or two ropes to rappel down! If you have an 80m then you can top rope Cadillac Crack, which is a blast! 
Stefani Dawn on the lay-back roof of Cadillac Crack (5.9). You need an 80m rope or doubles to rappel down from the Cadillac Crack anchors. These anchors are recommended over the dying and movable oak tree at the top of Diagon Alley.
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CLIMB: Falling Rein (Pitch 1 - Mostly sport, with some trad in between if you want) - 1-2 pitches.
WALL: Rad Cliff GEAR: Draws, maybe a nut or two and/or a sling for a horn FOR A NEW TRAD LEADER? Yes. Conclusion WTF? What the FUN! 
Sue Nelson leading Falling Rein, Rad Cliff, Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rock Canyon, Nevada.
This is a super fun, cruiser climb! Except for 2 moves at the start, which are 5.7-5.8ish, the climb is more like a 5.6. There are two pitches, but we just did the first pitch (which is the "5.7" part - the second pitch is easier.)
The climb is listed as trad, but it's basically a sport climb supplemented with a nut or two and/or a slung horn or flake. Honestly, I'm not sure why this was bolted - you could find gear (horizontals and flakes) all the way. But there are bolted anchors, which makes this an easy rappel. The first pitch is about 100-feet, so a 70 would work for the rappel on this one. If you do both pitches (I think) you'd go over and use the Cadillac Crack anchors to get down - that requires two ropes or a single 80m. |
Climb Stats to Date
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DATE OF CLIMB: March 10, 2024
WALLS HIT: 1 NUMBER OF 5.7 CLIMBS: 2 NUMBER OF PITCHES: 2 NUMBER OF FALLS: 0 NUMBER OF TAKES: 0 VERTICAL FEET CLIMBED: ~190' TOTAL CLIMBS SO FAR: 192 TOTAL PITCHES SO FAR: 263 TOTAL 5.7 VERTICAL FEET ON THE TOUR SO FAR: 26,595 NUMBER OF CLIMBS REMAINING: 68 (out of 262 - more climbs keep getting added - someday we will put a hard cap on it!) VERTICAL FEET REMAINING: 29,462' DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TODAY: 1 DIRTY UNDERWEAR ENCOUNTERED TO DATE: 10 |
FALLS SO FAR:
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