The Most Recent Posting
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Day 95: Romanian Rib LEFT - Rick and Stef hop on Romanian Rib LEFT - a 1300-foot climb that shares the last 900-feet with Romanian Rib Right. How does it compare to the Right side? Find out!
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The Stats (from the beginning)!
Links to the detailed log entries are at the bottom of this page & in the menu.
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Up-to-date status summary as of: December 2023.
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WHERE the Fuck?! What the F....??
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The Story...
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Stef - multiple times: C'mon Rick, let's do it! It'll be fun! Let's try to climb every single 5.7 in Red Rock...
Rick's responses:
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Why such a delirious response from Rick?
1. There are a lot of shitty 5.7s out there - ones we would never, ever consider doing unless we placed such contrived constraints as a "WTF 5.7 Tour" upon ourselves.
2. Old school trad 5.7s often fall totally in the "What the Fuck" category (although there will be some sport and toprope, climbs, most will be trad). These old school trad climbs can be nasty, sometimes unprotectable, usually unpredicatable, and contain plenty of moves that are way above todays 5.7s. They are easy and they are not easy. If you'd like to get a better idea of a WTF 5.7, check out this letter I wrote to them.
3. We are getting started in June, the depth of triple digit summer temperatures - which means really, really, early morning starts on the days we climb and exits in blistering heat.
4. If we are doing these climbs, we aren't doing other, perhaps more appealing, climbs...
and the list goes on.
See why he ignored me for so long? And see why he may be wondering what the hell he has agreed to? I gotta hand it to Rick, he's such a good sport. He has agreed to some of my crazy ideas (uh, like Climb-On Maps and buying Tankenstein - Tankenstein really tested Rick's limits and, yet, he is STILL working on helping to improve the van.... that's perseverance...or he really, really loves me). And, now, he's game again.
My fingers are crossed this endeavor mostly remains in the Type-1-fun zone (i.e. it's fun while you are doing it). We know sometimes it will fall in the Type-2-fun zone (it sucks when you are doing it, but fun in retrospect). Hopefully we will steer well clear of Type 3 "fun" which isn't fun at all - ever.
Here we will be sharing our trials, tribulations, opinions, antics, bullshit, and beta. We'd love it if you joined us for the ride.
1. There are a lot of shitty 5.7s out there - ones we would never, ever consider doing unless we placed such contrived constraints as a "WTF 5.7 Tour" upon ourselves.
2. Old school trad 5.7s often fall totally in the "What the Fuck" category (although there will be some sport and toprope, climbs, most will be trad). These old school trad climbs can be nasty, sometimes unprotectable, usually unpredicatable, and contain plenty of moves that are way above todays 5.7s. They are easy and they are not easy. If you'd like to get a better idea of a WTF 5.7, check out this letter I wrote to them.
3. We are getting started in June, the depth of triple digit summer temperatures - which means really, really, early morning starts on the days we climb and exits in blistering heat.
4. If we are doing these climbs, we aren't doing other, perhaps more appealing, climbs...
and the list goes on.
See why he ignored me for so long? And see why he may be wondering what the hell he has agreed to? I gotta hand it to Rick, he's such a good sport. He has agreed to some of my crazy ideas (uh, like Climb-On Maps and buying Tankenstein - Tankenstein really tested Rick's limits and, yet, he is STILL working on helping to improve the van.... that's perseverance...or he really, really loves me). And, now, he's game again.
My fingers are crossed this endeavor mostly remains in the Type-1-fun zone (i.e. it's fun while you are doing it). We know sometimes it will fall in the Type-2-fun zone (it sucks when you are doing it, but fun in retrospect). Hopefully we will steer well clear of Type 3 "fun" which isn't fun at all - ever.
Here we will be sharing our trials, tribulations, opinions, antics, bullshit, and beta. We'd love it if you joined us for the ride.
Log Entries - Ordered by Day (Below are climbs listed by area)
- The Plan: Here are some of the initial details you may be wondering about - e.g. the number of climbs, how we will attack climbing over the summer, tracking the climbs, etc.
- Managing the Desert Heat - Tips for climbing in the depths of the desert summer.
- Day 1: Red Springs Area ( Walls: Cut Your Teeth; Hide & Seek; Happy Acres ) - Rick and Stef climb a no-star/ half-star dirty chimney - and loved it! 5 climbs; 6 pitches - What the FUN! What the FUN-K!
- Day 2: Red Springs Area (Walls: Cowlick; Cannibal) - A sporty, top-ropey kinda day - with a bad TR anchor and climb. 6 climbs; 5 pitches (yes, you read that right because there is a What the FAIL!) There are also What the FUN! and What the FIESTY!
- Day 3: Red Springs Area (Wall: Dickies) - Climbing? Frustrating? No, never....well, sometimes. 1 climb; 1 pitch; What the FRUSTRATING!
- Day 4: Kraft Mountain (Three Peaks; Yin & Yang) - It was a double WTF'r kinda day. 3 climbs; 3 pitches; 1 What the FUN; 2 What the FUCK (1 possibly Forget About It)!
- Day 5: Moderate Mecca (Red Springs - Moderate Mecca Crag) - Let the battle of the bulge and haikus begin. 4 climbs; 4 pitches; 3 What the FUN; 1 What the FEISTY
- Day 6: Conundrum Crag (Kraft Mountain) - Stef and Rick learn a new (perhaps unwanted) vocabulary word and add "Dirty Underwear Encountered" in the tracking column. 1 climb; 1 pitch; What the FUN
- Day 7: Caligula Crag (Kraft Mountain) - Today was our first "Type 3" day - with brutal heat, a not-so-great climb with frail rock and a scary WTFuck 5th class down-climb "aka. walk-off", and a second failed attempt to get the Winter Heat Wall. 1 climb. 1 pitch. What the FRAIL.
- Day 8: The Fringe Crag (Red Springs Area) - We did a 5.7 sandwich this evening to make a one-off climb much more entertaining (one 5.7 climb sandwiched by a 5.10a two-pitch-er which added a nice 120 feet to the 65-foot 5.7 climb). What the FIESTY (This rating excludes the additional climbing - it's only for Broad Border 5.7.) Stef also reflects on some past transgressions.
- Day 9: Reptile Rock and Near The Fox - We have WTF'r #3 ! And, the quote of the day is "The tree is on!" on a "What the Foliage" climb where a little tiny tree truly is the crux.
- Day 10: Winter Heat Wall - Finally! - Third time is the charm, we finally completed the climbs at Winter Heat Wall. We've got some helpful beta for these climbs and Stef pontificates about being a couple and arguing (yes, we got into a little tiff...)
- Day 11 - Angel Food Wall - Group Therapy - Admittedly, we may have been way off route in some spots, Our experience was this is a serious fucking climb, one that is NOT for beginners. Route finding and pitch delineation is unclear (despite all the MP and Handren beta), run out ranges from 20-60 feet, rope drag is an added challenge, there are arduous and technical moves in several spots. Details and photos inside...
- Day 12: Sunnyside and Frigid Air Buttress/Smears for Fears - Stef and Rick complete four traditional climbs on two walls. Some of the climbs have incorrect information in the guidebook or Mountain Project, one has a solid 5.9 start with the first piece of pro at about 15-20 feet. Two what the FUNS and two what the FEISTY!
- Day 13: Meetup and Black Corridor - A ladies WTF 5.7 Tour day at the Meetup and Black Corridor crags. Five 5.7 climbs, all sport, with lots of wind, and some What the FEISTY and FUN climbs.
- Day 14: The Slab - Would you like a dab of slab with that climb? Stef and Michelle (guest sender) finish off the slabalicious 5.7 climbs Rick and Stef started. There be some FEISTY climbs mixed in with that FRICTION, matey, argh...(that be the slab pirate talking).
- Day 15: Mother's and Outhouse Crag - Summary Haiku: Stench fills the nose; Spectators clap and cheer us; What the FEATHERBAG!
- Day 16: Myster Z (Jackrabbit Buttress) - An 1100 foot climb where Rick and Stef have differing opinions about the climb and can settle on rating it based upon a particular shared experience: What the FLATULENCE!
- Day 17: Civilization Crag - Stef and Sue check out the 5.7s on Civilization Crag. There are five 5.7s, two trad and three sport. The funnest and most challenging was Meerkat Manor (Trad), then "The Sun Never Sets" (sport). The other three climbs are fun but very similar and very easy. We rated those "What the FEATHER-BAG."
- Day 18: Mossy Ledges - Pussy Nuts - Rick and Stef planned to do all three 5.7s at Mossy Ledges and one at Case Face next door. But, the best made plans... They just got "Pussy Nuts" (which was rated What the FAR!). Find out what happened.
- Day 19: Mossy Ledges 2 - Rick and Stef return to Mossy Ledges to complete some unfinished business! Two What the FUN Climbs with some shitty anchor issues.
- Amusement Park - Amusement Park Kickass Super-Sophisticated Rhyming City - We've done these climbs so many times, Rick and Stef really had to get silly.
- Day 20: Panty Wall - SUMMARY HAIKU: Stef got on wrong climb; Placed double rack in 35 feet; Rick climbed Thong with nuts.
- Day 21: Wall of Death & Hamlet - Against all odds, Rick and Stef, survived the Wall of Death. Experience the monumental, first-hand account of Rick's FLA (first living ascent) of "The Route No One Has Ever Survived" and Stef's onsight of "Five Thirteen Ex." They then merrily climbed at Hamlet.
- Day 22: Mescalito E - Too Many Tantrums - We have a What the FUCK-er!
- Day 23: Mescalito E - Pauligk Pillar - We have another What the FUCK-er! (And Rick and Stef made a series of errors and got benighted on the shortest day of the year...)
- Day 24: Child's Play Wall - Three What the FACIL (Spanish for easy) and fun, well bolted sport climbs located near Civilization.
- Day 25: The Ledger - It's old school all the way up this Joe Herbst climb. Grades very across the guidebook resources and there is a fork in the road on pitch 3. Rick chose to go the original way - left - and wow, it was challenging. We rated this one What the FORK!
- Day 26: Graduate Cliff - What the FAIL! We made a poor choice on our first climb, Pre Skool and bailed after pitch 1 (there are two pitches). We need to return to do the second climb and maybe redo Pre Skool. Oh, and the roof on Pre Skool is NOT pre school material...read on to find out what happened.
- Day 27: Straight Shooter Wall - Three quite different 5.7 trad climbs (two rated What the FUN! and the climb called Freak Out is appropriately named, so we rated it a What the FREAK OUT!). Straight Shooter also has numerous other fun, more difficult climbs, including the beautiful finger crack "Straight Shooter." Well worth spending a day here.
- Day 28: Retirement Plan - Stef and Rick climb the 2-pitch climb called Retirement Plan. A petina face climb with some slabby sections thrown in to add a little spice here and there. The pro is "fiddly" and requires creativity between a few supplemental bolts. We called this "What the Fiddly!"
- Day 29: High Scalin' - A WTF'r on weak, slopey, sandy (aka - like little ball bearings) rock with bad pro, horrible rope drag, and a scary difficult start. Sound like fun? The climb had it's moments of "neatness" and is much better as a second. This isn't a climb either of us would want to lead again.
- Day 30: Gold Digger - A one-off climb off by its lonesome near the end of the canyon that goes past Mossy Ledges. It's a strenuous approach for a 170 foot climb. All in all Gold Digger is a fun with a couple feisty moves (and maybe more feisty if you choose to stay in the corner). WTF Rating: What the Feisty!
- Day 31: The Abutment (Robin Trowel) & Stick Gully 1 (Unknown Left Start for Datura) - A long, exhausting day with two obscure climbs lacking information about how to get down. One climb was rated What the FUN-KY the second was a WTF'r.
- Day 32-34: Flight Path - This wall has five 5.7 climbs, but we ended up visiting it over several days because there are lots of other fun climbs we wanted to play around on. The "Idaho" climbs were a WTFUN blast! Sex in the Scrub Oak was WTFUN climb if you end it early at some anchors located near the top of the crack, but becomes WTFUNK if you go up and out to the right. Radio Free Kansas (5.7+) was a WTFIESTY, and Return to Sender sucked pretty badly so we give it a What the FORGET ABOUT IT!
- Day 34: Stick Gully - Prelude - Yes, this is a continuation of Day 34, and yes, another "What the FORGET ABOUT IT!" climb... An dyes, little by little we are working our way through the routes in Stick Gully... with a WTF's (see day 31) and now this, so far they just aren't that inspiring...
- DAY 35: Mz. Why - Stef battles a migraine and hopes climbing is the cure (it's not, and especially not this climb and it's walk-off). The first pitch of Mz.Why climb is juggy fun, the second pitch is ok, but fizzles out to low-angle walking for the last 1/3. Rock quality is ok, if not a little fragile on pitch 2. The walkoff/rap requires two awkward rappels and you have to fight with sharp scrub oak. The walkoff/rap is a pain-in-the-ass and not worth it for the so-so quality of the climb.
- Day 36: Birdland - So does Birdland live up to the hype? Why yes it does it's a fabulous climb that delivers something different on each pitch.
- Day 37: Johnny Vegas - Another "classic" and popular approach climb to Solar Slab. We rated this What the FUN! It's a pretty straight forward juggy face climb. We give our two cents on the best and quickest descent option and some helpful tips for some common issues people discuss on Mountain Project.
- Day 38: Diarrhea Dialect (Bullnose Wall) - Rick and I completed this climb before all the rains and the CoVID-19 broke loose...In this post I talk a bit about the CoVID circumstances and this tour...As for this climb, it is waaaay back in Pine Creek South Fork - a 2 hour approach for an 80 foot climb. Find out how it was and see the fun we had making the video!
- Day 39: Hop Route (5.7+, Necromancer Wall) - Ever wonder what would happen if you passed a kidney stone while climbing? Then this is the story for you... "The Sorcerer and the Kidney Stone." This climb was actually done about a month before we started the WTF 5.7 Tour. Followers voted that if we did a climb within a year of the tour, we could include it without having to re-climb it ;-). (Thanks ya'll!). Since we are doing the CoVID self-quarantine thing and not climbing, I'm finally getting around to posting this climb.
- Day 40: Falling Stars & Bad Moon Arising (R/X) (First Creek Slabs)- The first lead climbing Stef and Rick have done since going into quarantine after Diarrhea Dialect (Day 38) back in early March. Falling Stars is a 290 foot trad climb with some runout (welcome back to climbing!) and we gave it a What the FIRST LEAD SINCE QUARANTINE rating. Stef thought it was fun and liked the climb better than Rick. The second climb is Bad Moon Arising, a pretty cool R/X climb that we toproped (safety first!) which goes through a cavern.
- Day 41: Limon (Mt. Wilson) - What the FREAKING FAR! Mt. Wilson is deceptive, as it looks closer than it is, and the approaches are often challenging. It took three hours, some of it ass-kicking, to get to this one-off 5.7 (i.e. the only 5.7 there). But, should you wish to climb Limon (and/or some of the many other 5.8s and 5.9s in this area) we have some very detailed approach beta and photos to help you (which should cut off some approach time...). Plus, we fill you in on the climb.
- Day 42: Algae on Parade (Romper Room, First Creek) - This is a fun climb. Yes, the first pitch has a little bit of challenge to it with a couple thin spots (not good for a new leader), but it's still fun and protectable. The rest of the climb is nicely featured and interesting. The main thing about this climb is there is a difference in how you approach it with a 60m versus a 70m. I would highly recommend two ropes for the quickest, safest way to get down. The most ideal rope combo would be climb with a 70m and tagline a 60 m so you have two ropes for the rap. This write-up provides climb topos/photos and descriptive beta, clarifiing what happens with a 60 m (we climbed with twin 60s) versus a 70 (Mountain Project can be confusing on this issue.)
- Day 43: This Ain't the F'n Way - Rick and Stef planned to climb Squeeze of Lime on Strawberry Hill but we went the wrong way and had to do about 450' of down-leading to get back...
- Day 44: School Yard 1 - There are five 5.7s at the School Yard. We planned to do all five but after a "What the FAIL!" and a "What the FUCK'r", along with the inability to do a toprope of a "bomb-rated" climb (due to a huge amount of large loose rock), we kinda decided we'd had enough. What the FUCK!
- Day 45: Gnat Man - Stef is joined by Tony Ferrar to knock off two 5.7s at off the list. Both of the climbs are nice, one is rated a What the FEISTY! the other is What the FUA! What is FUA, you ask? Well, you just have to see the El Fua video to understand.
- Day 46: Pre Skool Part Deux - SUMMARY HAIKU: It's not meant to be, What the FAIL not once but twice!, This time it's the route... Tony Ferrar joins Stef on this one, pulls the roof, and agrees on bailing about 30 feet from the end on pitch 2.
- Day 47: Man's Best Friend and Americrag - Two What the FUNs (2-pitch sport climb Man's Best Friend - oh pure fun! - and the bit spicier trad climb Crusty Creatures). And, a What the FUCK - Forget About It (Glue Gun) - Yikes! Plus it's been a while since we've run across some dirty undies - we found pair #4 (not that we missed it...)
- Day 48: Cat in the Hat - Cat in the Hat is a super popular "classic" multipitch trad climb. We were expecting a stellar climb given it's popularity and "star rating." Although there are a couple good pitches and the rock quality is good, neither Rick nor I were particularly inspired by this climb. It was actually disappointing - we rated it What the FIZZLE. Read on to find out why along with some important details.
- Day 49: Ultraman - Four long single-pitch climbs on this wall with varying degrees of run out. The rock is good on all the climbs except the rated x "free solo" (which we toproped), Rodan. And, we liked all the climbs except Rodan. Find out the details!
- Day 50: Dog Wall & Fixx Cliff - "Wok the Dog" on Dog Wall is one of those climbs you look at from the ground and say, "cake!" Ha! It's a What the FREAKY! We also tried to hit a 5.7X climb on Fixx Cliff and didn't feel like dying, so it's a What the FAIL! Check out the details and our video of course!
- Day 51: Tuna and Chips - We hit three of the four 5.7 climbs on this wall on this day - two What the FEISTY and one "What the FUCK?!" - Well, actually "What the FUCK FRODO?!" because our friend Jimmy "Frodo" Lybarger put it up back in 1987. The WTF climb itself - Tuna & Chips - was actually pretty good, but the "fuck" part of it is that it's listed as rated R and we believe it's actually rated X. Rick put his life on the line leading that one!
- Day 52: The Walrus, Running Man Wall, & Sweet Pain Wall - Often it seems we set out to do multiple climbs on different walls and, for various reasons, we don't get our original plan completed. But, this time we did it! We began with a short 30 foot climb on The Walrus in the Sandstone Quarry area, then went over for one 5.7+ on the Running Man Wall, and finished up on two 5.7s at Sweet Pain Wall. There are two WTFun! climbs, one WTFeisty Friction, and one WTFlakey Flakes!
- Day 53: Viagra Towers - Located super close to the Calico 1 parking, Viagra Towers has two 5.7 trad climbs (one is listed as a toprope in guide resources - the anchor is walk-up accessible - but Rick lead it, so there is protection.) Both climbs are fun. Zig Zag (the TR-listed climb) is easier than 5.7 and Cialis Cleft is a fun, dirty, scrappy climb with a harder-than-5.7 start. Both climbs are WTFun!
- Day 54: USS Crag & Tsunami Wall: A day of "What the FUN!" We hit two sport 7s at USS Crag and a Todd Swain trad 7 on the crusher sport wall Tsunami.
- Day 55: Coco Crag: Ruta de Roja is a 200 foot trad climb we rated as What the Fiesty-Fun, because it's a fun climb with one committing spicy section. Check out the details!
- Day 56: Great Red Book Wall: Two "What the FEISTY" climbs, with "Seams Novel" consistently more spicy than "Elementary Primer." "Seams Novel" has very thin pro for the first 20-30 feet (bring micro nuts and cams!) but it's more fun and more memorable than "Elementary Primer." "Elementary Primer" has runout at the end. We ran into dirty underwear #5!
- Day 57: Tarkus Crack: Friends, we have a WTF'r! (although this is a fun one.). It's a "pure" corner crack climb on good rock (except for the top-out) with variable crack sizes. It's actually a good climb, just challenging. Read on for details!
- Day 58: Riding Hood - In Through the Out Door (5.7+): Friends, we have a WTF'r (and forget about this climb.) In Through the Out Door is accessed by doing the first pitch of Physical Graffiti (5.6). The first 30-or-so feet of the climb is significantly harder than a 5.7 - and the rock is pretty crappy, especially during the most challenging section. The last half of the climb is 5.5 slab (with a good number of bolts to protect). Although we appreciate the effort the FA did in bolting sections of the climb that need it, this climb is really not worth doing. The second pitch of Physical Graffiti is far, far superior.
- Day 59: Iron Man Wall - Necco Waif: A fun short 5.7 trad climb amongst a wall of sport climbs. It looks like a gimmie from the ground, bt there are a couple of spots that will have you thinking. Some fun hand and finger jams are needed to help keep you on the wall. Unfortunately the bolted anchor is so bad (both bolts move in the rock) that you may want to avoid this one until the bolts get replaced. We tried to do some sport climbs on this wall too, and ran into more bad bolts and anchors... seems like a good crag, it just needs some love.
- Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose - Footloose is a short, fun climb with a great introduction to a 5.7 roof for the new trad leader. This climb is listed under Ragged Edges in Mountain Project but it really belongs under Graduate Cliff. We have a great 3-pitch recommendation combining this climb with two others on Graduate Cliff.
- Day 60 & 61: Graduate Cliff 2 - Pick Your Poison, Walk to School, and Finished Pre Skool - This posting finishes off the climbs at Graduate Cliff, including getting all of that pesky climb Pre Skool (there were two previous attempts of that climb...Day 46 and Day 26). We have a What the FEISTY! (Walk to School), a What the FUN! (a neat chimney Pick YOur Poison), and a What the FORGET ABOUT IT! (second pitch of Pre Skool). We also have a great 3-pitch recommendation combining three different climbs (includes Day 60: Ragged Edges - Footloose).
- Day 61: Case Face - Space Case - A " What the FUN!" trad climb on Case Face. We have a some beta that will help ya' but also check out our video where Rick channels the Beastie Boys and Stef busts out some tunes too.
- Day 62: Stick Gully 3 - Box of Rain - Did we actually get on the correct climb? We have no idea... But it ended up being interesting, feisty, and a super obscure climb we were initially worried about but actually enjoyed - even all the off width. Plus we include a tribute to the Grateful Dead...
- Day 63: Cookie Monster - We had a mini epic on our first attempt at this climb because Stef was puking AND our ropes got stuck. But have no fear, we returned to complete the climb and found it to be simply faaaabulous!
- Day 64: Canola Cracks - Holy cow these are some awesome climbs on some of the most sublime rock we've encountered in Red Rock! Canola Cracks (L & R) are located at the top of the Rose Tower/Olive Oil walk off, so either grab them when doing the Rose Tower/Olive Oil walk off (we know you'll have abundant energy remaining - haha!) or plan on a good, steep hike up the gully to nab them in a separate session. If you aren't up for leading them, we describe how you can set up top ropes.
- Day 65: Tan Line - Tan Line is located to the right of the Solar Slab gully. It is an alternative way to access the popular climb Solar Slab. Rick thought it was ok and Stef didn't care for it - they decided on a rating of What the FAIR. Find out the details!
- Day 66: The Gallery - That Good Dude Climb - Ooops, we got on the wrong climb... But this climb is a typical WTFUN juggy petina 5.7 sport climb (it doesn't merit the plus rating given to it on Mountain Project.)
- Day 66: Hall of Fame - Ms. Adventure - Our last sport climb on the tour! This climb is also WTFUN sport climb with a spicy start and significantly harder than That Good Dude Climb at The Gallery (but it gets easy as you go up.) If you want, you can TR some of the climbs on this wall, including this one.
- Day 67: Smiley Face - This is a 200 foot climb that goes up the First Creek Slabs rappel gully. With no ticks, a 1.5-star rating in Mountain Project, located in a gully-wash where rain rushes down, and the need for micro-nuts for pro, we had concerns about this climb. This ended up being one of those really pleasant surprises! We rated it What the FUN FIND! (Plus see Stef's progress with using the GoPro...)
- Day 67: Romper Room Wall - There are three 5.7s on Romper Room Wall and we completed the multipitch Algae on Parade previously. On this day we hit the remaining two - Romper Room (What the FABULOUS!) and Kindergarten Cop (5.7+) (What the FEISTY!).
- Day 68: Byrd Pinnacle - Friends, we have a WTF'r! (although this is a fun one.). Byrd Pinnacle is an old school, strenuous, sustained climb with some good rests thrown in for good measure. The rock is stellar (except at the top) and protection generally good (though there are some potential issues with pro near the start.) We really dug this climb, but we thought it was harder than the 5.9 to the right.
- Day 69: Soloist Crack - Soloist Crack is located high up on the front side of the formation that separates Pine Creek from Oak Creek Canyons. So far this is a What the FAIL - twice! Find out why! -
- Day 70 & 71: Chocolate Rocks - There are four 5.7s here but a couple are labeled as 5.6 in Handren. Three of the four are Herbst climbs. Two are What the FEISTY, one (Postso's Pudding) is What the FUN, and Refreshe is What the FREAKY. We did these climbs over two days because on Day 1 we climbed with some friends and hit one 5.7 and then other stuff at the wall.
- Day 72: Gentleman's Club - Located at the base of Mt. Wilson in the bright reddish/orange Chinle Sandstone layer, the Gentleman's Club contain a series of short (20-30 foot) routes on really soft sandstone. It has one 5.7 climb called Silicone Sag. It sucks!
- Day 73: Ragged Edges Area - We climbed three 5.7s on the left end of the Ragged Edges Wall. Two of the three are WTF'rs (fun on toprope but rated X on lead and significantly harder than a 7 - though one is very height dependent). The third climb is rated a 5.5 in the Handren guidebook and was upgraded to a 5.7 in Mountain Project - it's a good climb that we rate "What the Feisty."
- Day 74: Children's Wall (Peaches) - There are two 5.7 climbs on the Children's Wall. One is a "What the Forget About It!" because of its proximity to Native American petroglyphs/pictographs. The other, Peaches, is a WTF'r! Find out why... Plus, Rick and Stef settle the Mountain Project battle about whether you can rappel with a 70m rope.
- Day 75 N'Plus Ultra Wall Part 1 (Lucky Charms & Geezer Face)- There are five 5.7 climbs on the N'Plus Ultra Wall. On this hot summer afternoon we did two of them - Lucky Charms and Geezer Face. One was a What the FUN! The other was a What the FABULOUS! See the climbs and get some beta - and have a little fun with Rick and Stef!
- Day 76: N'Plus Ultra Wall Part 2 (Pillar Talk & Chocolate Tranquility Fountain) - Continuing with the N'Plus Ultra wall we knock out two more climbs the Joe Herbst old school WTF'r Pillar Talk and the chocolatey goodness What the FABULOUS climb Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.
- Day 77: School Yard Part 2 (Dunce's Corner & Sunday School) - Grant Corley joins Rick and Stef for two climbs on the School Yard - one of which Mountain Project rates a "bomb" and one of which ends up being a WTF'r if you don't know the "fine print" beta! Plus the Trader Joe's quinoa dolmas get a review by Stef.
- Day 78: Escondite (Slot Club Wall) - Is this the next Tunnel Vision? Well, if you can get over the crappy rock and are good with a REALLY tight squeeze, then this long, dark, tunnel chimney climb might just be right up your alley! We rated it "What the FUNNEL!" for the WTF 5.7 Tour!
- Day 79: Schaeffer's Delight - A truly fabulous climb. You can choose to do three or 4 (or even 5) pitches if you'd like. It is rated a 5.8 in the Handren guidebook and 5.7 in MP. Although this is a Jorge Uriosite climb (FA in 1984), it has a couple of spicy moves but it is reasonably rated as a 5.8 or a 5.7.
- Day 80: Tuna Cookies - Another rated-x climb on the Tuna and Chips wall - but we found a way to get around the x-rated portion of this one and "just" make it an R! The climb is a WTF'r if you solo the 45-50 foot start to the bad bolt - or just make it What the FUN! and do what we did!
- Day 80: Diamond Dance - We are done with Calico 1! Woohoo! Oh wait... Stef spoke too soon based on what we discovered on the walk back to the car... "Diamond Dance" is a short 5.7 up at The Oasis. It's about 15 feet of wonky crack fun, and then 15 feet of "whatever" to get to the anchors - but it's still worth watching the video :-).
- Day 81: CarlyQuinn Crag - After "The Oasis" we thought we were done with all of the 5.7 climbs in Calico 1 - but then we discovered the CarlyQuinn Crag. There were two 5.7s here, but one has since been upgraded to a 5.9 - but in our opinion, not the correct one was upgraded. So one of these is a WTF'r!
- Day 82: Illusion Crag - Part 1 - This post covers six out of eight 5.7 climbs at Illusion crag. Illusion is mostly an old school area with first ascents by Herbst, Urioste, John Long, Larry De Angelo, and more - so there are two WTF'rs and a couple of What the Feisty! as well. Note that in 2021 there was a fire in this area and the place is badly burned.
- Day 83: Ballantine Blast -This is a multi-pitch trad climb located on Lazy Buttress in Black Velvet Canyon. The way we did it - with the optional 4th pitch - is nearly 500 feet. But we recommend ending the climb at Lover's Ledge after pitch 3. Check out the post, which includes the pitches we combined, topos, and helpful pitch-by-pitch beta, as well as how to walk off. We rated this "What the FLARING!"
- Day 84: Cereal Killer - Sometimes we end up on truly junky climbs - this was one of them...
- Day 84: Grey Matter - After completing Cereal Killer, we went over to Lost Creek Canyon wall to do Grey Matter. This isn't a WTF'r it's a WHERE the F'r!
- Day 85: Communist Plan - A super interesting/unusual and fun roof climb that has you scrunching up and stemming out as the world drops out beneath you. Plus, Rick and Stef's last 5.7 climb in the Willow Springs area!
- Day 86: Lazy Buttress - We have a What the F'r folks! Lazy Buttress has a total of 5 roofs on this so-called 5.7 climb! Stef and Rick take you up this interesting 3-pitch climb while friends Tim and Sean climb the superb climb Schaeffer's Delight next door.
- Day 87: Olive Oil - The ultra, mega, uber, mondo classic climb put up by the Uriostes and John Williamson. We hit this in the shoulder season (late summer/early fall) to avoid the crowds, but boy did we pay for it with the scorching heat - haha! What did we think? Check it out!
- Day 88: Lotta Brews - Rick, Stef, and Tony climb Lotta Brews, which is a link-up between Lotta Balls and Bruja's Brew (with one of the Black Magic anchors thrown in for good measure). This was a FULL VALUE climb!
- Day 89: Schoolyard Bully - Another WTF'r on the Schoolyard Wall and the name fits... unprotectable offwidth anyone?
- Day 90: Ride the Wind - A "What the FABULOUS!" climb on a new wall (Seraphim) with a puckering approach.
- Day 91: Guys and Ghouls - A WTF'r old school climb at Dickies Wall that used to be rated a 5.6...
- Day 92: Beulah's Arete - Stef and Rick get caught in a summer thunderstorm right after completing this fiesty, run-out, rope-draggin', multipitch trad climb.
- Day 93: Double Pin-etration - This 80' trad climb in Willow Springs on the N'Plus Ultra Wall is only listed in Mountain Project (not the Handren guide) and is a "What the Fiesty-Fun!" climb! [Warning: Double entendres in the video - not in the write up tho ;-) ]
- Day 94: Romanian Rib Right - Stef and 2 Mike's from Michigan hop on this "What the FABULOUS!" Climb on a "Type 2 Fun" windy-er than forecasted day.
- Day 95: Romanian Rib LEFT - Rick and Stef hop on Romanian Rib LEFT - a 1300-foot climb that shares the last 900-feet with Romanian Rib Right. How does it compare to the Right side? Find out!